1G Transmission removal and considerations

[tsunami2502]

I just got my car back from the shop about a week ago for bent valves, and my clutch started slipping in 4th and 5th. I don't have enough money to take it back and replace the clutch, seeing that would be 800+ dollars. I'm considering removing the trans and replacing the clutch myself. What should I take into consideration before beginning this project? What should I invest in (tools, warnings, guides... etc.)?


Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

[Quasimondo]

1. If you haven't done so, get a CD version of the Factory Service Manual. If you can't get a copy of the FSM, pick up a Chilton's or Haynes' manual. I have all three, the more parts the merrier.

2. Get a torque wrench, one that can at least torque up to 100 ft/lbs.

3. Get a heavy duty floor jack. That way, you can have it support the transmission after you've removed all of the bolts and the mount and you can lower it safely.

4. If you're replacing the clutch, make sure you buy a complete kit. This should have the pressure plate, friction disk, and the other two important items, the throwout bearing and installation tool.

5. Track down a shop that can get the flywheel resurfaced. It takes less than 45 minutes for them to do it and costs about $45. If you don't resurface the flywheel, you could end up with excessive clutch chatter.

6. Kill two birds with one stone. With the transmission out, check the CV boots on your axles. If they're torn, replace them.

7. Get a can of grease and make sure you put a good coat of it on the output shaft, and the axles before reinstallation.

8. Bleeding the clutch can be tricky if you've never done it before. This is a two man job, but can be a one man operation if you have a 2 x 4 of the right legnth. Have a friend pump the clutch pedal up to ten times and hold the pedal in after the 10th pump. Slightly open up the bleed valve and brake fluid should come squirting out. Close the valve while the fluid is still sqirting. If it squirts all the way out, then you've lost line pressure and the clutch will stick to the floor, and you'll need to start over. Sounds confusing, but when it's time to bleed the clutch, you'll see what I mean.

9. After the clutch is bled, depress and release it, then pull up on it with your hand. If you get more than 1/2" of play, then you will need to readjust the linkage. This page will show you how.

10. For the first 500 miles or so, drive the clutch like normal. No hard launches, no long slippages. Excessive slippage could glaze the flywheel, hard launches before break-in will cause clutch chatter.

Good luck with your clutch replacement.

 

[blackGSX2g]

^^ Yep, thats what I would reccomend for you as well. Its really not that hard of a job, especially seeing that you are FWD. Its worth learning to do it yourself.