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1G Transmission noise

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Anthony Boni

5+ Year Contributor
212
23
May 13, 2018
Wrightstown, New Jersey
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Hello,

Attached is a video clip of the noise I am hearing. With the clutch engaged, there’s a rattling/ticking noise. Push the clutch pedal in, noise goes away. Any ideas before I drop the transmission?
 
Please post your findings so that we have for the record noise and cause. Maybe it will help someone in the future, maybe it will be me.
I’ll be sure to update this thread tonight. This is the main reason I posted it. I’ve found a lot of threads asking about this same problem, but no one has updated with an answer.
 
Lol nice. This won’t fly for me. So I’m yoinking the transmission tonight and going to see what’s going on.
I have drove for 84k miles in 12 years so I assume my stock clutch is on its way out. It's not if, it's when. I am already looking into how big pain in the rear it will be to change out. Not looking forward to do it.
 
There’s a breather on top that’s right above the tob you can remove to look inside. Idk if that’ll help you look inside but it’s easier than pulling the trans. Think I just removed the shifter bracket to access the hole to lube my tob.
 
Alright guys here’s that update I promised. I yoinked out the transmission and inspected everything very thoroughly. I found NOTHING out of place. The pressure plate teeth were all even, the throw out bearing rotated freely with no resistance, the clutch disk is in nearly perfect condition, flywheel and pressure plate torque was fine. Nothing was loose. There was zero input shaft play. Very little output shaft play.

I removed the flywheel, and retorqued it down to 100ft lbs. I then removed my 1mm pivot ball shim. That is the ONLY thing I changed. I then reinstalled the pressure plate, torqued the bolts to 15ft lbs. I reinstalled TOB with the Jesus clip in place, threw the transmission back in, torqued the mounting bolts down, cranked the car up, noise gone. IDK. No idea.
 

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I disagree. Tob will make more noise when clutch is pressed in. Internal to trans makes more sense. Input shaft, intermediate or both.
Unless the pressure plate teeth were slightly misaligned, causing the TOB to “roll” over the misaligned tooth. When the pedal is pressed, the TOB is pressed against the pressure plate teeth, making them all even, causing the noise to go away.

Just a hypothesis though.
 
Wow. I guess I have been fortunate not to have any problems with either of my dsm or the evo transmission. Granted I never launch it or race it. Just casual sprints on freeway. Maybe some pulls. Ok guilty a lot little.
 
Lol I hear you. A lot of the transmissions I have pulled have been from part outs and clutch changes as well. They’re not all due to issues. Treat these transmissions right and they’ll be good to you!
 
Last update, I think I know what the issue was.

Before removal, the clutch fork was sitting more towards the driver’s side. By quite a bit. OEM fork, OEM TOB, OEM flywheel, OEM pivot ball, 1mm shim under the pivot ball.

When I took the transmission off, I also yeeted my pivot ball shim because I thought, what the hell. If it still makes the noise the transmission is coming back off anyways. In the other picture, you can see the clutch fork is much more centered.

That’s the only thing I changed, and now the rattling noise is gone. I think that was the culprit, but I can’t be 100% sure. If you’re experiencing the same noise I was, be sure to check your clutch fork position. I’m not a gambling man; but my assumption is too far In either direction is not a good thing. The closer to center, the better.
 

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