Transmission begins to slip after driving a while

[hypebeastdizz]

I got the garbage 420a engine.. (Yes I know)

It was the only model of the eclipse I could afford..

But to get into it.. I have an automatic...

And when I start the car and it begins to shift...it shifts smoothly...no grinds or anything..

But after around 20/30 mins of continuous stop-n-go traffic and highway speeds..

It begins it slip...which kills my gas mileage..

I checked the tranny fluid..Its a redish-color...
I smelled it..and check for any grits in the fluid..
(Negitive on both)

Will getting a tranny flush help it? Or Make it worse?

Or is it better to change the fluid?


I bought the car in March of 2010.. The guy I bought it from his wife drove it..(which they had for 9 months prior me buying it)

 

[moronthr33]

You could flush it and try Lucas's stop slip trans additive

 

[sniver]

It is very hard to diagnose auto transmission issues. Flushing it at this point is probably pointless.It could band aid for a while, or it could dislodge some crude and give it the final blow.

If it doesn't have burn smelling dark brown/black fluid, then the clutch packs probably aren't slipping. If its filled properly, then that leaves me thinking the front pump, or the solenoid that controls line pressure.

 

[hypebeastdizz]

There is no burnt smell nor is the fluid black.

I've googled about non-turbo trannys and they said they don't use transmission bands which causes the slippage in most cases..

It also said how people get a mistaken tranny problems with the soliniod(spell check) pack gets clogged which makes the fluid get to thin thus causing it.

I just don't want to go to a shop and charge me an arm and a leg and find out my tranny is trashed..

My car only has 134,000 miles on it. Its a 95.

The thing is...
Do the additives work or they a waste of time?

Or just get it flushed to see if it works?

 

[sniver]

Additives won't get you anywhere. Try flushing it out.

 

[hypebeastdizz]

Is it safe to flush it?

 

[sniver]

It SHOULD be fine, but if it hasn't been maintained properly, and theres any sludgey crap, it could block a solenoid, or passage way in the valve body and make more issues.

The service manual take ~70 pages to explain the checkout, and testing procedures.

Check TCU codes
I'm not positive if this applies to n/t 2gs or not. It doesn't specify... If theres a code you can pull, that would help tremendously.