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Transfer Case Ideas to not break!!!

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larsen_trevor

Probationary Member
2
0
Jul 12, 2004
Sioux Falls, South Dakota
I just got back from track and ended up popping the t case... im coming out at the hole with my 2 step at about 5500 rpms with about 6lbs of boost... comes out hard but broke the t case... we are pushing around 500 whp... any ideas or upgrades to keep the t case together? fluke or what? we are running a spool in the transmission to lock it all up... thanks for input...
 
Hmmm...I come out hard out of the hole in my car (1.62 60 ft best/street tires) with a completely bone stock tranny and even the 3-bolt rear end. Never broke anything. I would say it's a fluke or you are just extremely unlucky.

My car still weighs over 3,000lbs with me in it so it's not exactly a super light weight either.
 
although, the tcase is one of the weaker links in the drivetrain. I would suggest getting a race warrenty (if those exsist from anyone, I know satan won't cut you that kind of deal, and I doubt anyone else would either) if you can.
 
Yeah the driveshaft shop has their upgrade, I think it's around $1500. It kind of sounds like a fluke to me, most people break axles before T-cases. Give it another try, if it breaks again it's time to change how you launch the car.
 
Breaking tcases I have found has been more about how you drive the car and weight transfer. I use to break them all the time, we got 9 or 10 broken ones laying arund here. After making it stop weight transfering to the rear it fixed teh problem.
 
So how do you make it stop weight transfering to the rear..with adjustable shocks? I am a bit concerned about this also as my car obviously has enough mods to break stuff.I plan on buying a tre likely stage 3 trans and some dss axles not sure if need the super expensive rear ones or just the step up middle sections. I have seen that dss transfer case mod and its stupid expensive.I would also think a fluke as many big power guys are running them with not that frequent breakage.Diambo is a good example.
 
Stiff rear spring and like I said how you drive it effects it as well. Also if ou have a welded diff or not. A welded dif puts more pressure on the rear axles and tcase than a open one. Not slipping the clutch enough will cause you to snap rear suspension parts when you start making real power as well.
 
My car sits very low...especially in the rear. Add stiffer shocks to the equation and there's not very much weight transfer when I put down the hammer. It still squats hard when I launch - I have been told - but it doesn't feel like it from my perspective.

I also slip the clutch very fast after making sure I don't have any slop/slack in my drivetrain. Good results. I may get the 4 bolt rear end this winter but again...I'm tempted to see how far this stock 'weak' 3-bolt rear will go.

As for the transfer cases, I have like 3 sitting in my garage waiting for carnage...but it hasn't happened just quite yet. Knock on wood. :| :sosad:
 
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