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to big of fuel injectors?

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bcowx06

10+ Year Contributor
74
0
Oct 20, 2009
akron, Ohio
ok, so i no theres alot of threads about injectors but nothing that really helps me out with my perticular problem. i have a jdm motor with 510 injectors it was supposed to have a big 16g but i have to run my stock t25 for now. but the problem im having is when i turn my car over it acts like its wants to start but dosent :banghead:? ive tested for spark, fuel, compresstion, and engine timing everything is working good and im spraying fuel but just wandering if its to much fuel for my stock presure regulator. also im not sure if this matters but when i turn my key on my radiator light comes on could it be that i dont have enough coolant for the coolant temp sensor? thanks for the help
 
quick question could my no start problem be that the intake that came with the motor isnt on it. i have my stock 2g on would that be messin everyting up?
 
your tricking the Ecu...by making it see the wrong airflow

Unless your changing the actual Fuel and timing maps in the ecu then your going to be in the wrong area of the timing map.
thats how you get knock when you goto lager injectors and pull the airflow back,The ecu looks up the timing it should give for the load area it's in.it sees the wrong area since your trying to give the motor less fuel giving you to much/wrong timing advance

Wouldn't you be tricking the afrs and not just airflow? Im not an safc expert but isnt that what there intended purpose is. He shouldnt have to worry about the timing curve unless theres a huge difference between stock maps which idk jack about jdm ecus but i imagine it has to be relatively close to a stock 2g ecu. I mean i get what your saying about the relativity of afrs to timing creating knock if off, but im just saying for as little of a difference he would need to adjust to get the motor turning over i wouldnt think it wouldn't produce much knock if any and that wont even happen until hes close to wot which is not the inteded purpose in this case as he just wants to get the motor running. Again not an safc expert here but they gotta be doing something right if theyve been proven to work and for a cheap price which the op is looking for.
 
Wouldn't you be tricking the afrs and not just airflow? Im not an safc expert but isnt that what there intended purpose is. He shouldnt have to worry about the timing curve unless theres a huge difference between stock maps which idk jack about jdm ecus but i imagine it has to be relatively close to a stock 2g ecu. I mean i get what your saying about the relativity of afrs to timing creating knock if off, but im just saying for as little of a difference he would need to adjust to get the motor turning over i wouldnt think it wouldn't produce much knock if any and that wont even happen until hes close to wot which is not the inteded purpose in this case as he just wants to get the motor running. Again not an safc expert here but they gotta be doing something right if theyve been proven to work and for a cheap price which the op is looking for.

I wasn't talking about his case, Just in general

changing what airflow the Ecu is seeing is How the Air/fuel ratio is changed I think you missed the point I was making but yes In his case it wouldn't make it knock...
but their is a big difference in the maps for Non Us cars.Most other country's have MUCH higher octane gas then we here in the states so they run alot more timing then we can get away with on pump 91/92


But like I said before this is getting off-topic from the OP's Problem so lets try to stay on topic

I doubt the injectors being 60cc larger have anything to do with his problems like I said already. More likely it has to do with something like the CAS not wired in right or the firing order like a few people have brought up...
 
Last edited:
Make sure you have the CAS in the correct phase. If you have a 1G, make sure to set it in it's midrage. If your spark plug order is correct, make sure the CAS is in the "middle" of its range...if that doesnt work, take the CAS out and swap phase, meaning, do a 180 degree rotation of the dowel part that sticks out of the CAS and goes into the head.

Double check the wiring for your 1G CAS conversion.
 
Make sure you have the CAS in the correct phase. If you have a 1G, make sure to set it in it's midrage. If your spark plug order is correct, make sure the CAS is in the "middle" of its range...if that doesnt work, take the CAS out and swap phase, meaning, do a 180 degree rotation of the dowel part that sticks out of the CAS and goes into the head.

Double check the wiring for your 1G CAS conversion.

Or much easier
Just set the motor to TDC and pull the CAS and make sure the notch is facing towards the front... .
 
95 fireing order is 4-1-2-3 and 96 and up is 2-3-1-4.

Unless your talking about the order the plug wires go on the coil, the firing order on ALL DSMs is 1-3-4-2.
 
A 7bolt means nothing. You have to do the same things to get a 7bolt 1g motor into the car as a 6bolt 1g, if that is what you are saying :)

Triple check your cas wiring. And whether it's not 180* out.

510s are 13% larger than stock, 60cc larger not 30. It is VERY possible the plugs are drowning in fuel and it wont start.

Check your MPI fuse.

Use the 2g maf that came with your car not the 1g maf. Make sure it's plugged in.

You have to use a 2g coolant temp sensor. A coolant sensor that is reading VERY wrong or not plugged in will cause the car not to start.

For ever!! The only real difference is the ports are smaller..

The 2g manifold on a 1g head makes HUGE HUGE HUGE airleaks at ALL the ruuners. This could keep it from starting

More offtopic banter. . . The japanese 4g63 never cam with a small 16g. The small 16g came out at or after the evo3 16g. It's a more technologically advanced wheel than the evo1-2 (big 16g ) compressor.

Safc = half ass = opinion. I've taken an safc car to 11s. Reliable, always started, consistant. A 2g with its better maf (no overrun) responds well because the timing advance is very conservative. . . Now back on topic.
 
well i thought the evo motor was a 6bolt? well i know mine is of a GVR4 an its a 7bolt, and there was no problem with the injectors or fuel, running his same setup with the t25
 
im positive the cas is in right i thought it might of been 180 out so i took it to tdc and still nothing. im still getting spark, im leaning towards it being the coolant temp sensor or the firing order i thought i had to switch the wire on the coil since i have a 2g with a 1g cas. thats what RRE said anyway i followed the directions to the T.
 
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