Tips for first time working on head

[johnk]

I've determined that my oil is leaking out of the valves. It smokes at startup and boost. Compression also checks out fine. I have no experience working on the valve train. Is there any tips you guys can give me or things I should replace to stop the oil burn. I was guessing I would just have to replace the valve stem seals. I might do the lifters too while I'm in there but it comes down to what money I have left. Synethetic oil seems to have calmed them alot but at 5 bucks a week for synthetic oil I can't afford to keep filling it.

I'm mostly looking for tips on how to do the job. Or anything else mandatory to change to make it stop burning.

If I only have to replace the seals can it be down with out takeing the head off?

What type of head gasket should I use if I take it off?

Do you know any shops with good prices for these parts?

 

[Damn 2nd Gear]

i hear that the mitsu metal head gaskes is real good. not sure of price tho.

 

[SmokeyGST]

I am looking to do something similar too i am burning oil really badly and think my head gasket might be bad. And i was wondering about milling the head if its neccesary especially if i can't machine the block. i am also thinking i have blow by. So is it possible to rebuild the engine in car?

 

[Tallen]

If you want to do that with the head on, you will need to buy a really expensive spring compressor that actually bolts onto the head. You may be able to borrow one from someone you know/local DSM club.
There is a vFAQ on how to make a good valve spring compressor. It will only work when the head is off. You want to squeeze the valve spring down and nab the keepers out with a maget or pick. You then relieve the pressure on the spring and take it out. Pop the valve out, grab a pair of pliers and tug the stem seal out. Be careful not to damage the valve guides! Once the seal is out, get a flashlight and check to see if the valve guides are cracked or worn into an oval shape groove. A worn valve guide can mean engine death.
You replace them (not for the weary) by heting the head in the oven, quickly lubricating the guides, then pressing them out. Put the new ones in the freezer, and heat the head up again. This will make the fitament much easier.
Clean the valve seat with some degreaser. You could bead/sand blast the valve faces if you so desired (thats it though).
Check for bent valves by putting them in the head and spinning them from the inside, while watching it from the valve face side. It for see it wobble, it may be bent. I always check them into a drill (lightly) and see if they wobble that way (your drill will wobble slightly, it may not be the valve). The best option is to just do a compression test beforehand.
Press in the seal with a 10mm socket and your ready to install everything the opposite way you took it out. When reinstalling the keepers, use some white lithium or similar grease (safe for engines) to hold the keepers on the valve. This makes things so much easier.


If you are feeling really up to it, go to advanced (i think they carrry them) and buy some valve lapping compound and a valve lapper (the small one). Put some lapping compound on the valve seat, and insert valve. Use the lapping tool (spin it in your hands) to spin the valve back and forth until it does not sound gritty anymore. Repeat if necessary until the valve and valve seat have a nice circular, uniform wear pattern fromt he grinding. This will grind the valve into the valve seat making a near-perfect seal. If you notice that the grind pattern looks wierd when you take the valve out, the valve is bent! THROUGHLY wash the valve seats and valve of lapping compound. Do not get any on the stem of the valve. Lapping compound will eat your engine.
Good luck!

 

[johnk]

Thanks Talon that is some great info I wasn't sure on how to check if any of the components in there were worn out.

 

[slopefunk]

yes you can kinda rebuild the engine in the car. I left mine in the car. I pulled the head off, and the oil pan. cleaned the oil pickup. I pulled the pistons out throught the top stuffed some rags down in the engine. honed them out put new rings on and new bearings. i cleaned the pistons really good too. i used arp rod bolts. slapped them back in there. i had the head milled. slapped sce gasket on its a little thicker. i put new valve stems in. the car runs like a champ now. I thought it took less time than pulling the engine, but my buddy that helped still swears it would have been easier to pull the engine. anyways everything worked out for me goodluck.