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2G timing problems?

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wont_luz

15+ Year Contributor
112
0
Sep 4, 2006
Green Bay, Wisconsin
Well, I bought this car the way it is from a guy who did the 6-bolt swap. It never has run right since I've bought it...when I start it up it idles very high (2000~2300rpm) and after it is warmed up to ~200 degrees it starts to idle down slowly until it eventually kills, then when started again will not idle at all.

I got the car w/o dsmlink but now have it...and when i ground the timing the base timing is 5.2 degrees, but when i take the ground off it jumps to 18~20 degrees of advance. What could cause this?

Also, I cannot rev the car past 5000rpm, and when i get close it starts to get knock retard counts of 7~12 degrees, and I have seen the timing advance go as high as 35 degrees. I have tested the coils and power transistor, tested good. The car won't even take 5psi of boost right now without stumbling.

Any ideas:confused: ?
Thanks,
Dave
 
well the idleing sounds like a ICS or BOV/ intercooler hoses leaking or boost leak.

the whole not reving past 5K and boost thing ::shrugs::
 
something quick you can try if you have another DSM around is to swap ECUs. theres a good chance thats the source of your problems.
 
Well, today the car ran out of gas in my driveway...and I put some 91 octane in it and to my surprise it ran much better...still not quite right. I think much of the problem is bad gas. Timing was 12 degrees at idle (or close since it won't idle) for a while. I turned the car off and came back after a while...and it was back to 17 degrees advance.

I did take the car for a drive and could rev to 6000 now, and could get 21 psi boost, but the car wasn't that speedy, still lacking lots of power.

I also noticed...there is a terminal on the BISS...but no wire coming off of it...any ideas what color this wire is supposed to be? The former owner also made the wire harness...and didn't do the best job *still no speedometer*.

As for swapping ECU's...I'd rather not...LOL I have DSMLink and no other ECU to swap anyways...
 
wont_luz said:
Well, today the car ran out of gas in my driveway...and I put some 91 octane in it and to my surprise it ran much better...still not quite right. I think much of the problem is bad gas. Timing was 12 degrees at idle (or close since it won't idle) for a while. I turned the car off and came back after a while...and it was back to 17 degrees advance.

I did take the car for a drive and could rev to 6000 now, and could get 21 psi boost, but the car wasn't that speedy, still lacking lots of power.

I also noticed...there is a terminal on the BISS...but no wire coming off of it...any ideas what color this wire is supposed to be? The former owner also made the wire harness...and didn't do the best job *still no speedometer*.

As for swapping ECU's...I'd rather not...LOL I have DSMLink and no other ECU to swap anyways...


WTH are you doing at 20+ psi on 91 octane. That right there could be a major problem with boost.

At this point the first thing you need to do is check the compression and make sure the engine wasn't damaged by the bad gas and low octane mixed with high boost. If you can scope the pistons though the spark plug holes.

Check for boost leaks.

It is possible that you have a problem with the wax pellet...has it been eliminated?
 
Well I am able to get 21psi WITHOUT knock mind you...but the motor is in deep trouble. Compression readings of 45/115/28/140. Whoa. Mind you, I was not the one who set the boost on this car...the last owner ran with even HIGHER boost. Guess that's what I get for buying a bad running car...well...time to rebuild:).
 
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