timing jumped...?

[95-talontsi]

I bought electrical cleaner today and cleaned all the connections I could find . I was able to take the grey piece loose from the connector on the fp solenoid plug, I put electrical tape around the exposed wire and put the grey piece back around it.

I looked around some more, double checking connections and wireing and checking fuses everything seems to be in good order. I left all the connections unplugged so they should be all dryed out by tommorrow when my ecu gets here.

I hope I didn't miss anything my new ecu doesn't get screwed up.

Is there anything else you think I should check before hooking the ecu back up? It should be here tommorrow around noon.

 

[95-talontsi]

Well I put the new ecu in.....took like a minute of cranking and sputtering before she finally fired. she was missing and backfiring then it finnaly smoothed out kinda. It idles really really low to where it will die sometimes and if i get on it about 3500 rpms it wont go it like shuts off basically. If I put it in a higher gear and get on it it will pull kinda up to 3500 then cut off. I dont know whats wrong with my baby

 

[Spoolin4Ever]

Time to start testing as many parts as possible. Fuel pump, regulator, compression test, and anything else you can think of, CAS, TPS.

You sure this replacement ECU is good?

Are we sure the timing is correct?

 

[Spoolin4Ever]

What about maintenance items? Plugs, wires, fuel filter?

 

[95-talontsi]

well now its broke again...I went out to start it up and it died right away and the ecu start clickin again. I'm pretty ####ed they probably wont cover the warranty on it. I dont know whats wrong with my car. I owe 4600 on my car cause I just had to have that new turbo and fmic and clutch and fly wheel and I had to buy a tranny a while back cause I broke the orginal one and now I owe my boss 250 the computer I just bought and I make 6.75 an hour my lifes just great.....

 

[95-talontsi]

I put new plugs in and changed the oil today. well the ecu is suppose to be a rebuilt one and its got a 1 year warranty.

 

[Paddocklke1]

The ISC quite often is responsible for the type of damage described. A bad ISC will burn up a good ECU if the bad ISC issue is not resolved.

 

[steve]

The ISC quite often is responsible for the type of damage described.

A bad ISC however burns up other drivers than the one pictured.

Steve

 

[Paddocklke1]

Yes, after my post I checked out another forum and Keydiver mentioned 2 other ICs as the ISC driver. Is there a soft copy of the ECU scat that could be used to isolate the load tied to the damaged parts?

 

[steve]

Did you miss the post where I explained what that driver was for and how it gets damaged?

Steve

 

[Paddocklke1]

I saw a driver circled in red, you explained what it was, later he listed a few other overheated/damaged devices.

Perhaps I should have PMed you regarding the availability a soft copy for the ECU. I know of you from other sites and that you know your stuff and are a resource to the DSM/MMC community.

I am accustomed to doing analysis at work and did not want bother you with question regarding the additional ICs and xistor listed after you mention the BCS and FPR solenoids involvement


Joe

 

[95-talontsi]

Well its freezing cold outside so I can't go mess with the car. I did think of something while at work....do all those wires like the fp solenoid, egr, and bcs do those wires run into that big bunch of wires that goes into the fire wall below the battery......? If they do I believe thats where my short is. When I did my fp rewire I ran the wire through that plug and I cut the plug to make the wire fit through and I couldnt get the plug to sit snug back in its place.

 

[95-talontsi]

Well it was a little warmer today so I was pokin around under the hood. Checked the wiring that goes into the firewall none of the wires were damaged, I guess thats good but I was kinda hoping that was it. This isnt going to be an easy fix for me, I hate wiring so much, I wish it would of been something mechanical that broke .

I was looking at my bcs and right by it some type of relay it looks like, it didnt look damaged but, it wasnt secured to the grounding point. Any know what it is? I cleaned up the rust on it and tightened it back down.

I wish I could pull open the new ecu and see if the same chip burned up, but i dont wanna void the warranty. Any one have a direction I should start going?

 

[95-talontsi]

any one know what that relay is? The part number has been worn off, I cant find a relay diagram either.

 

[95-talontsi]

For those that don't know of my problem its can be found in this thread. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=242804

Now this is where I am today..
I finally got my replacement ecu for my replacement ecu....I really really hate electrical stuff...but heres what I plan on trying. I put my battery in and use a test light on the plugs for the bcs and fp solenoids. Now theoretically I should find a short ot one of them, since that is what driver burned up on the original computer.

Previously all I did was inspect the wiring and clean up the plugs and took out the solenoids. Thinking that would be the end of my problems, I put in my new computer and car ran fine just driving but didnt want to boost past 3000. Then that night it wouldnt start with about a total of 1 hour of running time.

Now today at work I was reading a master technician magazine or something like that and was reading about relays, and how you can put a 24v relay where a 12v should go and its not unheard of for it to work for a while....before it fries the driver on the computer. This got me thinking about how I believe the previous owner and I had messed with some relays under the hood and possible switched them? Or are all the ones under the hood the same?

The only relay I have added to the car is the one for the fuel pump rewire, I dont think this is what cause my problems since it has a fuse inline with the power wire. I purchased the kit off ebay so my thoughts were that maybe I got one of those 24v relays? Probably not it but it was a thought.

Well if any one has anything they would like to add please please do, I dont have to go to work till 1:00 tommorrow so I can mess with it for a few hours. Well thanks guys.

 

[ZmanIV]

Wow you have a 24VDC electrical system on your car
Seriously the cars dont have 24VDC onboard.
Your alternator puts out at a max around 14 VDC, so how could you switch 24 and 12 VDC relays under the hood.

 

[BISHILVR]

I dont think thats your problem, I would keep looking.

 

[95-talontsi]

Wow you have a 24VDC electrical system on your car
Seriously the cars dont have 24VDC onboard.
Your alternator puts out at a max around 14 VDC, so how could you switch 24 and 12 VDC relays under the hood.

Well I dont know. I really dont know what is wrong and why I would all of a sudden get a mysterious short out of no where. I read about that and thought maybe that could of been it. But i guess not since its not possible apparently. I know nothing about electronics sorry.

 

[95-talontsi]

Well I tried my test light idea...Tried every plug I could find under the hood. I also traced all my wires again to the fire wall. Unless some how a wire is damaged under the black tape I dont see anything wrong. I have a feeling that I need a working computer in the car to find the short, But I dont want to put my new one in and burn it up to like hte last one, or do you think I will be fine as long as I dont start the car but just turn the key to on?

 

[95-talontsi]

Well ive been doin some searching on the board tonight, I read that the 2nd o2 sensor could fry a computer. I bring that up cause I did the mod to it where you put resistors to make it not throw a code. Its cold and dark so I cant look till tommorrow.

I also read that the ecu controls the fans. I have a slim fan wired to the a/c switch so i could turn it on and off when i wanted, since i removed my a/c. well a couple days or maybe a few weeks before my car went under, my fan came on and wouldnt turn off. so i unplugged it...

Does that ring a bell to any ones head on what i need to check?

thanks again

 

[95-talontsi]

well i probably really screwed up my car now. I cut all the wires going to the ecu for things i didnt use. such as the bcs, fp solenoid, evap, and many others. I burned up my computer again. does this mean its not one of those things?

 

[BISHILVR]

Thats what it would mean. Why dont you just install a good ecu without plugging the isc in?

 

[95-talontsi]

I dont have a isc. That was one of the wires I cut to. I literally cut all the wires to things that the car didnt need to run cause well I dont have any of those plugged in. I guess I need to look at a wiring diagram and see what all the bcs and fp solenoid run to then? cause they must run into something else im guessing that shorted out which made that driver burn up on the original ecu.

I wish I could open up this computer to see if the same driver burned up, but that would void the warranty and i wont be able to get another one for free.

I cut all these wires from the plug going into the ecu and i unplugged my 2nd o2 sensor harness thing to eliminate the chance of my soldering job to get rid of the check engine light of being the problem.

3 Fuel pressure solenoid
4 Idle Speed Control (ISC) motor coil (A1)
5 ISC motor coil (B1)
6 EGR Solenoid
9 Evaporate emission purge solenoid
11 Turbo wastegate solenoid
17 ISC motor coil (A2)
18 ISC motor coil (B2)
20 Cooling fan motor relay (high)
21 Cooling fan motor relay (low)
22 AC compressor clutch relay

Im thinking of just lookin for a blown up awd car and putting my motor in it

 

[BISHILVR]

Did you do a resistance check on all of the injectors? You dont have an amp installed do you? If it was something in the ignition, it should burn out the power transistor or blow a fuse. The fuel pump has its own relay so I think that could be ruled out. The crank and cam sensors even if they were shorted should'nt damage the ecu in that way, and the car would'nt run. Thats about all that you have to have to make the car run, so if those things are ok, and you are still burning ecu's up then it would almost HAVE to be some type of wiring issue. Have you taken an ohm meter and checked resistance from the ecu plug to ground on all of the other terminals that are still connected? make sure none of them are at zero ohms, it will take some effort but you should do this.

 

[95-talontsi]

No I dont have an amp installed. Only wiring I have done to the car is, fuel pump, 2nd o2 and now the hack job i did to the ecu plug. I dont have an ohm meter but I will go buy one tommorrow. I wont be able to work on the car tommorrow cause I work a 10 hour shift and it will be dark when I get off. But just so I understand this, I put 1 of the wires from the ohm meter to one of the wires on the plug and touch the other wire from the ohm meter to a ground?