timing jumped...?

[steve]

Will it be safe to plug my ecu and turn the key to on to test the sensors? Seems like I would fry my computer again doing this.

Also you will have to tell me how to use the volt scale if you would please.

I havent gotten my next ecu yet so I cant test until I get it.

Without knowing what your frying on the ECU's I can say what's causing it. Ask whom ever your sending them back to what getting toasted.

In order to tell you how to use the voltage scale(s) I need to see what you have. Some multimeters have one setting and autorange while others have multiple voltage ranges and you need to select the correct one for the max voltage you expect to see.

The red probe should to to the positive test point (usually the pin we want to measure the voltage of) and the black probe to a ground point. The meter will then tell you the voltage potential between the two. If you put the red probe on the battery positive terminal you should read about 12.6v with a good charge and the ignition off, 14.4 or more when the engine is running, and perhaps as low as 10v when your cranking as an example

As long as your not connecting two pins together while measuring it's pretty safe to measure the voltage on any pin. You however don't want to set your multimeter to the ohms scale and try measuring powered lines. It can worst case blow up your meter.

Steve

 

[95-talontsi]

I got my new computer today! I dont know when the next time I will have off work though to do what you told me to though. I think I might be able to get off work thursday, if not then I will have to wait till sunday mostlikely. Thanks again for all your help I hope we can get this figured out.

I need car badly. I dont know if you saw but I rolled my daily driver friday night.

 

[95-talontsi]

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Theres a picture of my multi meter. Its kinda blury but ill tell you what each thing says, from left to right starting off which is the middle top.

This is 10,50, 250, 500 Thats DC V
Now is 500,250, 50, 10 Thats the AC V
now is 250, 50, 0.5 thats DC mA
Then last is x1k thats OHM's

hope you understand.

I was just thinking, if I unplug all the sensors like you said and test pin 81 and get infinite resistance open as you said. If I plug them in one by one till I find the one that is making it read closed Then I would know which one to inspect?

 

[95-talontsi]

Ok I was testing after unplugging my tps,maf, and manifold pressure sensors.
I came across one I missed i guess.

83 Coolant temp sensor

I believe this one should be zero because it connects to the block so that would make it a ground correct?

Right now i am in the process of connecting the wires I cut. I will test them when I finish in a couple of hours.

What setting do I need to set my volt meter to to test for voltage? Do I test this at the sensors or comming out of the computer?

Ok after connecting the wires I cut I found this one to read zero ohms.

21 Cooling fan motor relay (low)

Now this makes sense to me that this is shorted, Like I stated before, it was a couple days or a week before my car broke for good that my fan came on and I couldnt turn it off. Is the low for when you have the a/c on? cause I had my fan pluged into the connector for the ac fan so that I could turn it on and off when I wanted.

Looking at the wiring schematic it shows 21 going to the fan relay. Under my hood there is 6, 2 are low. Would this mean a bad relay? Or could I possibly pull the relay and be done and just run my own wiring for my fan

Oh also now that I connected those wires, 81 isnt showing zero resistance any more?

 

[steve]

If your measuring voltages up to 10 volts use the first DC voltage range. In the car when your not sure what voltage you might be measuring use the 50V range.

When measuring voltages the black probe is connected to chassis/body or the negative terminal of the battery and the red probe is used to test the voltage at some point. Sensors themselves doen't usually generate voltages (the O2 sensor does) so your usually checking for voltages at the harness for the sensor or at the back of the ECU while everything is plugged in.

Disconnect the relay and test it by it's self along with checking the wire again. The relay coil should have some resistance.

 

[95-talontsi]

I wish I would of waited for you to tell me this....cause I was messing with it, testing the probes on the battery on different settings and it pegged the meter a couple of times. Now I cant get and readings using the voltage part but the ohms part still works. I must of fried it?

 

[BISHILVR]

Blown fuse in the back of the meter (check it)

 

[95-talontsi]

Should any of the wires going into the computer get hot? Theres some wires that are in a green loom with white tape rapped around them in one spot that are warm after I turned the ignition on? Everything seems good volts are reading correctly at the sensors and out of pin 81. I think I am ready to try and start it but I noticed those wires were pretty warm.

 

[95-talontsi]

Well I went out and started it....Its running again, but like the first time I put a new ecu in, it doesnt want to boost past 3000 rpms. So I think its going to end up frying again.

 

[95-talontsi]

Well the ecu burnt up again.... I dont understand all the wires going into the ecu were as they should be. The car had a little under a 1/4 tank, I thought maybe the sputtering was bad gas. I drove all around town and out on the interstate to burn it all up. Put fresh gas in tried boosting it again and then when it started breaking up and sputtering I let off and the dash lights flashed and the ecu did its mass clicking of death.

Is there something the ecu does when it see's boost? Maybe thats where I should look next? I dont know...maybe I should just part the car out and be done with it.

 

[BISHILVR]

The boost control solenoid is the only thing that should get energized with boost/vacuum differences. No wires should actually be getting "hot".

 

[steve]

It still would be a lot faster to see what is being burned up in the ECU. That should tell us where to look.

Steve

 

[95-talontsi]

The guy said he cant look inside of my computer, He just sends them off to be repaired and sends me a new one. The wires I said that got hot weren't hot any more so that is why I decided to start it. I kept feeling them as I was driving and they werent getting hot.
In my original computer that burnt up it was the driver that controls the fuel pressure solenoid or the boost control solenoid. Thats what you had told me before steve. Do you think a different one is burning up now?

From what bishilvr is saying it sounds like it is the boost control solenoid shorting out. Since the car drives great until it sees boost.

I also had a thought. Maybe he is sending me computers for a 97+ would that cause any problems?

 

[BISHILVR]

A 97 ecu wouldnt cause that.

 

[95-talontsi]

Well I havent gotten my next computer yet from the guy, hes been givin me the run around on the phone. When I did talk to him finally he said the reason the computers wont work in my car is cause I have crankwalk......I told him if my car had crank walked it could take out my crank angle sensor and make it so the car would just crank and not fire at all.Of course he told me im wrong and im wasting his time. He also claims he sold the computers I have sent back to him and they worked fine in other peoples cars which i dont believe since I could smell that something had burned inside them.

But I do have a question is there a chance my crank has walked into my crank agle sensor and making it short out? Doubt this but im just throwin it out there.

 

[BISHILVR]

Well of course thats always a possibility.

 

[95-talontsi]

My motor does have alot of miles on it I have no doubts that its not walking. Is there a way to inspect the cas with the motor in the car? I searched but didnt come up with much.

 

[BISHILVR]

Crankwalk is usually felt in the clutch pedal.

 

[95-talontsi]

Ya I know that, for severe cases of it.

 

[95-talontsi]

any else have any insight on if my crank could have walked into my cas? The only thing I could think of is that if it did, it moves back away from it under normal driving but when the car sees boost it shifts the crank over and it touches.

 

[BISHILVR]

Are you sure you dont have a headgasket problem?

 

[95-talontsi]

are you serious? I dont see how that would cause any of the problems I am seeing. I've never had any loss of coolant, or any signs of mixture of oil or coolant.

 

[BISHILVR]

It could be blown between the two cylinders and not into a coolant or oil passage. Also, you could have a burnt valve, this is very common on the exhaust side.

 

[95-talontsi]

But how would this cause me to fry an ecu?

 

[BISHILVR]

Well, it looks like we're not convinced that you are actually frying the ecu's right?