timing belt tensioner not working... too much milling?

[rabenne]

As I try to tighten the tensioner pulley it eventually begins to rub against the small bolt hole (protruding from the block) between the tensioner pulley and the idler pulley. I cant seem to get the tension tighter than about .3 where I need .15. If I try to tighten it further the belt rubs on the bolt hole.... The tension holds all the parts together when I manually crank it, but there is a point during the rotation where there is noticably more slack. I was wondering if anybody has had this problem??

 

[andytalon]

I have no idea what you are saying but on a 1g the 2 holes on the tentionor pully are on the top and on a 2g they are on the bottom. Look at the vfaqs, and make sure you are doing the right one. Please take pics and I would love to help you. good luck bro

-andy

 

[rabenne]

I am sorry for the confusion. The problem was that I was trying to tension it as if it were a 7 bolt instead of a 6 bolt. Like stated above, 6 bolts - holes up, 7 bolts - holes down.


Tensioning of the timing belt is very difficult without the "tensioner tool." I found it easiest to rotate the center hole in the tensioner pulley a little bit by little bit, each time with the belt off, then reinstalling the belt, and checking tension. Once I got it nice and tight, I pulled the auto-tensioner retaining pin, and checked the gap. I used a 5/32" drill bit, which is about .156".

I also marked the CAS position before I started. When it came time to adjust timing, it was right at 5 BTDC with the jumper grounded, and went up to 8 BTDC once removed. I used dsmlink and a inductive timing light to do this.