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timing belt replacement

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14.5 drift

Banned Member
950
0
Feb 25, 2004
o.c., California
car has been getting between 15 18 mpg so I took it into dealer. They said timing belt needs to be serviced and throttle body needs to be serviced. how much skill leval involved in doing these services at home? Dealer wants alot of money. Bought the car 4 days ago now this...
 
depends whos doing it.
 
First time - allow 2 days & about 22 posts on 2 Threads, 2 skinned knuckles & at least $200 in parts.

& You really ought to consider Water Pump while you are in there if it's original.

If you want to do it right replace all Oil Seals & Install Balance Shaft Delete Kit while you are in there.
 
Originally posted by 14.5 drift
car has been getting between 15 18 mpg so I took it into dealer. They said timing belt needs to be serviced
Are they even slightly suggesting the timing belt is having any effect whatsoever on your mileage?

Burn the goddamned place to the ground.

And, the Mussolini treatment would be appropriate for the service writer.

A DSM (or any other) Gilmer belt _might_ stretch enough to cost you ONE mile per gallon, but I'd doubt it. They MUST be replaced about every 55,000 miles.

And unless your car's been stored in a mud pit, there won't be enough "servicing" of the throttle body to pick up 5 MPG, either.

If you're driving it fairly hard, and/or in-town, it's not unlikely you're getting 18. I get around 22 with moderate pushing and mostly freeway. When I make a pure freeway run over to see mom, it crowds 25.

Get yourself a nice new set of NGK BP6ES plugs, gap them to .028, and a set of new "premium" (any brand) plug wires. Worry about the belts if you're at the right mileage.
 
car is at 58k. Spark plugs do need to be replaced also. I was completly shocked myself. Had the car for four days now. First tank got 14 mpg, after this bull shit I drove a hole tank on the highway and still only got 18.5. F#cked up shit for a 2 liter eh?
 
Originally posted by BUCK
First time - allow 2 days & about 22 posts on 2 Threads, 2 skinned knuckles & at least $200 in parts.

& You really ought to consider Water Pump while you are in there if it's original.

If you want to do it right replace all Oil Seals & Install Balance Shaft Delete Kit while you are in there.

Hi:

was wondering if anyone can help me in finding out how and what is a balance shaft delete kit. I know how to remove the Balance shaft or Silent shaft but how and what do I use to plug the holes to prevent oil leeks?

Thank you in adabce for any help

Gerry
 
Originally posted by beaudeg
Hi:

was wondering if anyone can help me in finding out how and what is a balance shaft delete kit. I know how to remove the Balance shaft or Silent shaft but how and what do I use to plug the holes to prevent oil leeks?

Thank you in adabce for any help

Gerry
http://vfaq.com/mods/balance-shafts.html
 
Buy yourself the auto manual made the talon/eclipse/laser or you can use the instructions off of vfaq, I kinda used both, get an extra friend or two to help you out, and 3-4 hours is no more than it should take you to do this.

Get need timing belt, Idler pulley,tensioner pulley and timing adjuster. Plus it owuld be a good idea to do the balance shaft belt change too, which you would need to buy the balance shaft belt and the balance shaft belt tentioner. Ohh and a waterpump as well. You can find these parts at http://www.partznet.com/mitsudsmclub.html which is probably the cheapest prices you'll find. You'll find the waterpump here http://slowboyracing.com/Engine rebuild/Water pump/Water_pump.html hope this helps :thumb:
 
takes me 3 hours.

it will take you 30 hours :thumb:

just did mine, took me 3.5 hours the first day to get down to the waterpump and the timing belt, took me 4 hours the second day to do the waterpump, timing belt balance belt and all the pullys, and took me 3 hrs the third day to put it all back together -- couldnt of done it with out the vfaq -- that was the best reading ive ever done
 
It can take a lot of time your firast time, but you will save thousands if you keep it and always do your own work, plus knowing it was done "right", that is if you take your time and stop if you are not 100% sure that it is right, before putting it back together.

Really you need to do the balance shaft belt and bs belt tensioner pulley, timing belt, timing belt tensioner pulley, timing belt hydraulic tensioner, waterpump (get one that has lifetime warranty and the METAL propeller, about $54 at NAPA), (everything else OEM Mitsubishi only, please), oh and all new accessory belts (get whatever brand you want on those). You're looking at about $400, for all those parts, but you save $600 everytime you do it yourself.

I highly recomend the BS Shaft removal (but this will add more time and expense)...oh about $60 in parts but then you save from buying the BS tensioner and belt, so...but in the long run totality worth it. Since it only has 60K on it, if you want you could wait until next time at 120K, to see if you still like the car, etc. and do that then. Because it will add more work and required expertise/skills. This part I have never done but I have done the tbelt etc. above before.

A turbo AWD car is pretty much the best bang for your buck sports car you can get, although the 7 bolt engines often go out at about 130k or so (not all of them, but mine did and quite a few others), weak piston rods is what I think it is.
 
just did mine, took me 3.5 hours the first day to get down to the waterpump and the timing belt, took me 4 hours the second day to do the waterpump, timing belt balance belt and all the pullys, and took me 3 hrs the third day to put it all back together -- couldnt of done it with out the vfaq -- that was the best reading ive ever done

Did you happen to notice this thread is 6 years old?
 
I just went through my entire motor new everthing and the balance shaft on the fire wall side the nut came off the gear and rattled around behind the timing cover I also notice the seal was leaking around that bs I replaced the seal and still leaks waht am I doing wrong? Please help
 
The original leaky seal was already there with the new oil pump, I just replaced it and still leaks. can you tell me how far it goes it? does it sit flush with the housing? thanks

Your most def correct on the torque of that nut must of over looked it some how.
 
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