Timing Belt Checklist

[Dave_Hash]

I am doing my first timing belt job on my 2g. I wanted to know if I have everything I need to do the job and if there is anything I am missing. What I ordered today...

• Timing Belt MD326059

• Timing Belt Idler Pully MD156604

• Timing Belt Tensioner Pulley MD182537

• Timing Belt Tensioner MD308086

• Balance Shaft Belt MR984778

• Balance Belt Tensioner MD352473

• Water Pump MD972050

• Thermostat MD315301

 

[oldman]

i didnt read the whole thing, but if you want a cheap way to do the tensioner get a pair of 90 degree snap ring plies and just use that to turn it

Already mentioned and they're talking about the other special tool.

 

[romeen]

FWIW, I am leaning more and more towards doing whatever it takes to allow me to go ahead and just replace everything so I can rest easier.

I could always sell a kidney but at my age it would probably do me in.

 

[oldman]

I could always sell a kidney but at my age it would probably do me in.

Or do someone else in.

 

[FORMONTOYA]

Jim, I would have to disagree here, you can definitely do without the special tool to apply proper torque on the tensioner pulley and use a 90* needle nose plier but the other one is almost a must as no one, unless you do this every day, will be lucky enough to get the tension correctly on the first try and you will have to compress the new auto tensioner again and again until proper tension is reached.

I've done the job twice on my car and 1 other time on a friends car....all 3 times everything "fell" into place the first time without issue. My first one lasted 40+K miles before the head came off for a "freshen up" (blown valve stem seals, no TB issues) and the second one has been on for about 4K without issue. My buddies was on for around 25-30K miles before he sold it (still running).

I guess I'm just a lucky SOB, or maybe I have always "grasped the concept" of most things mechanical. Maybe that's why I'm a mechanical designer.



Sorry to everyone....sometimes I "assume" that everyone "gets it".

 

[oldman]

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/timingbelt-1G.html

Jim, are you saying without using the tensioning tool which allows you to properly torgue the tensioner pulley (step #32), the gap between the auto tensioner body and the tensioning arm falls in between 3.8 -4.5mm (step #35) for you the first time and every time? If so, kudos.

With that said, since this tensioning process is all about guessing how far up the tensioner pulley is to be rotated, perhaps you can share this "mechanical concept" with us so we can all "get it" , I certainly had a real hard time "getting it".

 

[FORMONTOYA]

If you're NOT changing the tensioner arm pulley then there should be no reason to adjust it afterward. Pull the new auto tensioner pin after assembly, let it rest for 15 minutes (while smoking a cigarette or whatever), then double check....you "should" be golden.

If you ARE changing the tensioner pulley....make a mark on the tensioner arm that is "in-line" with the 2 holes in the center section of the pulley using a straight edge, replace the pulley lining up the 2 holes with the mark on the arm. Pull the pin, let it rest, double check, you should be golden.....at least that's how I have done 3 so far without issue.

I do pull the whole tesioner arm assembly out to change the pulley.




By the way (giving credit where due), marking and lining up the holes in the tensioner pulley was a tip from a buddy of mine who does change TBs out on a regular basis since he works for a Mitsubishi dealership. So I guess I had a little help "getting" it.

 

[oldman]

If you're NOT changing the tensioner arm pulley then there should be no reason to adjust it afterward. Pull the new auto tensioner pin after assembly, let it rest for 15 minutes (while smoking a cigarette or whatever), then double check....you "should" be golden.

If you ARE changing the tensioner pulley....make a mark on the tensioner arm that is "in-line" with the 2 holes in the center section of the pulley using a straight edge, replace the pulley lining up the 2 holes with the mark on the arm. Pull the pin, let it rest, double check, you should be golden.....at least that's how I have done 3 so far without issue.

I do pull the whole tesioner arm assembly out to change the pulley.




By the way (giving credit where due), marking and lining up the holes in the tensioner pulley was a tip from a buddy of mine who does change TBs out on a regular basis since he works for a Mitsubishi dealership. So I guess I had a little help "getting" it.

Thanks for sharing that Jim and I'm sure it will work in most cases. To me, the tool costs $16 or $0 if you make it yourself, no reason not to own one and do things the right way instead of shortcuts, keep in mind that not everyone owns a Mistu certified mechanic buddy.

 

[DSMunknown]

Jim or Bruce, I need to replace my water pump (leaking through weep hole as best I can tell). I was able to confirm that a new T-belt and related components were used during a 6 bolt swap 6K miles ago. Since they are relatively new do you think it's ok to reuse all or any of the components or do you recommend replacing things since I am going to be "there" anyway? Unfortunately expense is somewhat of a consideration for me right now.

I agree with the advice Bruce gave. But I would also like to add that you should carefully and diligently inspect the TB for wears/tears/irregularities. Look under a nice bright light and make absolutely sure the TB is in good operating condition.

 

[FORMONTOYA]

keep in mind that not everyone owns a Mistu certified mechanic buddy.

Point taken.....sorry.

 

[Calan]

I'm also on my first TB change here, and I'm changing everything, even though most of it looks almost new.

One thing I'd point out that I didn't see mentioned; check the oil pump sprocket. Mine had gouges and other nasties on the teeth, and the keyway was worn. It looks like someone had thrown a mondo pair of channel-locks to it in the past (what a surprise).

It was something that looked like it had the potential to slowly chew on my new TB, so I added the sprocket and a new nut to my parts list rather than chance it.

I went ahead and pulled the front case and pick up tube for inspection, cleaning, and all new gaskets/seals. Probably a bit much, but I tend to be anal about these things

Also, per Bruce's excellent info in other threads... might as well do the filter housing port work while your at it if your BSs are removed.

 

[oldman]

Point taken.....sorry.

No problem Jim, I'm just pissed you weren't there for me on my first TB job.

One thing I'd point out that I didn't see mentioned; check the oil pump sprocket. Mine had gouges and other nasties on the teeth, and the keyway was worn. It looks like someone had thrown a mondo pair of channel-locks to it in the past (what a surprise).

Good point, even if the sprocket looks good, the nut should never be re-used.

 

[romeen]

I agree with the advice Bruce gave. But I would also like to add that you should carefully and diligently inspect the TB for wears/tears/irregularities. Look under a nice bright light and make absolutely sure the TB is in good operating condition.

Yeah, I already decided to play it safe and replace the belt. Maybe I'll do the quasi-TB job that Jim alluded to here:

At the very least a TB job should include the timing belt, balance belt (if you still have it), auto tensioner, and water pump.

No problem Jim, I'm just pissed you weren't there for me on my first TB job.

Don't worry, he knows that old people are grumpy.

 

[Calan]

@ "Originally Posted by anal calan"... just noticed that.

You old people

 

[luv2rallye]

I am doing my first timing belt job on my 2g. I wanted to know if I have everything I need to do the job and if there is anything I am missing. What I ordered today...

• Timing Belt MD326059

• Timing Belt Idler Pully MD182537

• Timing Belt Tensioner Pulley MD156604

• Timing Belt Tensioner MD308086

• Balance Shaft Belt MR984778

• Balance Belt Tensioner MD352473

• Water Pump MD972050

• Thermostat MD315301

Note above that the Idler Pulley and the Tensioner Pulley have their part #'s reversed.

Should be:

• Timing Belt Idler Pully MD156604

• Timing Belt Tensioner Pulley MD182537

 

[FORMONTOYA]

Don't worry, he knows that old people are grumpy.

Really a matter of it's sometimes better to keep some shortcuts to myself as I can see where it might lead to other issues if someone does not "grasp the concept" of what's going on. The method I described does leave a lot to interpretation and it's definitely a judgment call where "eyeballing" comes into play. Also, as mentioned, parts wear....when it comes time to replace the tensioner arm (for whatever reason), the shortcut will no longer be valid.

I learned a long time ago that if I was going to have a car for a toy, that I should have a buddy that works on that particular make/model on a regular basis so I have someone to ask questions and get answers that I can be confident about.

 

[Dave_Hash]

Note above that the Idler Pulley and the Tensioner Pulley have their part #'s reversed.

Should be:

• Timing Belt Idler Pully MD156604

• Timing Belt Tensioner Pulley MD182537

My bad