2G Ticking after timing belt change

[shotgun94]

I recently replaced the timing belt, water pump, hydraulic tensioner, and the idler pulley on my 98 talon tsi awd. The balance shafts have been removed previous to the timing belt change and it never caused problems. There is a ticking coming from the crank pulley side of the motor, and i am unsure as to what it could be. The timing is perfect, has been checked numerous times, and the oil pump is not off either. All the pulleys are tight. When i installed the timing belt i took up most of the slack before releasing the tensioner, so the timing belt is not loose. I bought the kit from slowboy racing, if that matters at all. Any insight as to what this could be would be greatly appreciated.

i failed to mention in my original post that the ticking does lessen in severity when its warm, but never fully goes away

 

[1993eclipseGS]

Are you sure it's not lifter tick?

Did you check to make sure you didn't bend the crank angle sensor plate? It would tick if it were slightly bent, And get faster as the rpm's increased. I just replaced one on a customers car at my shop two weeks ago because of it getting slightly bent. However, The noise would not get quieter as the car warms up.

 

[shotgun94]

It sounds as though it is coming from the crank pulley, or any of the parts around there. Definitely not lifter tick

ill check the sensor plate as well as a precaution, but it does get quieter with temperature

 

[mazda-man]

Are you sure the crank pulley is not rubbing any part of the cover. I have seen covers warp over time in spots especially ones that had been oil soaked from cam and crank seals leaking. Once the engine warms up it is possible the cover could straighten enough to only slightly rub which could explain why it gets better when warm. It should leave a rub mark though if it is hitting.

 

[shotgun94]

Well that is one thing that I haven't really thought of yet either mazdaman, ill pull the cover off and take a looksie and see if that could be the problem. Ill get a status report posted tomorrow on that issue, its dark now!

 

[luv2rallye]

Also check crank pulley (harmonic balancer) for separation.

 

[shotgun94]

does anyone know where to get a good crank pulley with a harmonic balancer. Mitsu quoted me $274 and theres lots of after market ones that come cheap but i haven't found any with harmonic balancers. thanks

 

[luv2rallye]

You gotta stop believing your local Mitsu dealer and go to an online one where they don't have a 300% markup:
$126.29 factory vibration damper at https://www.mitsubishiparts.com/oe_parts_catalog.html
This place sells real factory Mitsu parts.

 

[shotgun94]

i never believe them, i know they rip you off. they quoted me 400 something for a ISC and i got one online for 100 bucks to the door.

 

[luv2rallye]

Ya I don't think dealers really want to sell you parts over the counter. If you are buying individual parts you already have some idea what they should cost (since you're the one fixing your car) so you'll notice right away a 300% markup and tell your friends. But when they fix your car, people just see the final price and blindly hand over their credit card. Most people in that case don't even look at the individual parts prices on the ticket (if they're even there) or if they do, they haven't a clue as to what's reasonable anyway. Plus they need their car now, so they're not going to argue about something that's already installed when they know the dealer isn't going to lower the price anyway. So all dealers can easily get away with inflated parts prices on cars they fix.

Also everyone already knows dealers have high over the counter parts prices. But it's a different story when you show all your friends the ACTUAL inflated price they charged you on the receipt for a specific part when you can prove other places have 1/3 the price for the same part. So I think they would rather just turn you away at the parts counter and not deal with all this than have their actual prices spread all over the place by you. Plus very few people fix their own cars anymore. They've all been duped into thinking they are too complex to fix by anyone other than a trained mechanic who has exotic expensive equipment we don't have or could afford. Or with everything else in life, people say they don't have the time. So there's not much of a market to sell over the counter parts by a dealer anyway.

Also if they sell you the part, now they are down to 0 or 1 of that part for the entire city (since that's the way they do inventory) and they don't want to have to tell a customer he now has to wait 3-7 more days before they can return his car that they are fixing due to the part is not available. A customer will not put up with that at a dealer, a dealer not carrying their own parts - maybe at an auto store but not a dealer where he knows he already will be paying through the nose to have them fix his car.

 

[DSMDEMON93]

I had the same issue once. I rebuilt my bottom end with a rebuild kit, and noticed that ticking very badly..turns out, my tensioner pulley was larger than before, rubbing, and also my reluctors (that the crank position sensor reads after every pass) was slightly bent..and was rubbing as well.

 

[motomattx]

Check your idler bolt for tightness.

 

[1993eclipseGS]

I also just realized that the ticking you are hearing may be caused from a slightly bent crank angle sensor trigger plate. It will increase with rpm's. You can also get a stethascope and listen to parts in that area to hear exactly where it's coming from, If you cannot see anything out of the ordinary.

As for the crank pulley, I have over a dozen of them. I sell them cheaper then any other company, But you would need to PM me as I cannot speak about buying/selling parts as it's against the rules.