The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Tick getting louder and louder, afc? timing?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

national_freak

Probationary Member
11
0
Jan 2, 2005
clarksville, Tennessee
i've researched this for a week now and nothing has really helped. I know a little about cars but not too much. I have a 90 talon with big 16g, 550 injectors, 255 pump, greddy turbo timer and SAFC. Since i've got the car, which the engine has less then 5000 miles, ticking has gotten louder and louder. I've thought maybe the timing is off but shouldn't the ecu compensate for ticking? I've tried measuring my o2 sensor and at full throttle it reads around .9 volts which i've been told is ok. So will tuning my afc fix the timing issue or is that something more complicated? I run premium of course and i dont think it has affected performance but it's definatley something that is heard outside the car when full throttle. When my boost gets up there (17 psi about) i think the tick dwendles but maybe its cause the turbo soud covers it up i dunno. Is it safe to drive with that loud of a ticking? Doesnt tick at idle but when revved tick comes and goes usually just at the first couple thousand rpms. It ticks immdiately after clutch is let out and load is put on the engine. Could it just be a leak in my manifold or waste gate or something? What things should i check and how should my afc be setup? maybe turbo has something to do with it? It seems to get louder with boost. please help i dont wanna ruin a good engine. :talon:
 
Your ignition timing is different than valve timing the ecu controls ignition timing. Ignition timing would not cause a mechanical tick. You should change the timing belt and replace the lifters with 2g lifters because the 1g lifters tick. I would check the timing belt first and make sure it didnt jump timing.
 
I know 2g pistons were put in there, so im sure 2g lifters would have been put in there too but i don't know... There was no ticking when i bought it 2 weeks ago. how exactly do i know if it jumped timing??? :confused:
 
uhh you ever think it was your motor mounts and its the motor hitting the chasy.One might be bad. Or it might be a peice of metal on your engine hitting the chasy something so small you wouldent think of it.My motor ticked when idleing and it was a peice of metal hitting the chasy.
 
did you check your oil? sometimes these engines are real finniky... even if they are 1/2 a quart low... they will tick
 
yea, oil is fine, i've been looking around the engine and the ticking seems to be coming from a leak in the left side of the exhaust manifold.... and the bolts were loose, one bolt turns with the treads so i dunno if it broke or what... none of my tool kits have 13 mil wrenches so i have to go to autozone and see if i can tighten those bolts... do u think fixing ann exhaust leak will stop the ticking??? :talon:
 
national_freak said:
yea, oil is fine, i've been looking around the engine and the ticking seems to be coming from a leak in the left side of the exhaust manifold.... and the bolts were loose, one bolt turns with the treads so i dunno if it broke or what... none of my tool kits have 13 mil wrenches so i have to go to autozone and see if i can tighten those bolts... do u think fixing ann exhaust leak will stop the ticking??? :talon:
Yes an exhaust leak at the head will cause a ticking type sound my streetbike did that.
 
Well... you've found your ticking noise!! It is an exhuast leak coming from your exhaust manifold. More than likely, it has warped due to the studs breaking from fatigue. It has probably blown out your exhuast gasket. This is a very common problem with these cars. Trying to tighten the bolts will do you no good at this point, if it is loud enought for you to hear it. Your solution would be to remove the exhaust manifold and check the surface with a true straight edge. If it is warped it will need to be resurfaced. Any machine shpo can do that. If your manifold is cracked severly, I would say, save your money on the resurfacing and go buy a new eshaust manifold.
 
Oh... I forgot to mention, if you find yourself with broken studs, don't go any further! If your not proficient at removing snapped studs, seek the help of someone who has the experience, or take it to a shop. If you try and remove them yourself and you don't know what you are doing, you may damage your cylinder head, and it will cost you more than if you took it to a shop to deal with the stud. Good Luck.
 
thanks guys, studs were just loose, one was busted, went to oriellys and got a new one and screwed it in tightly. Is there a too tight? I mean u said there could be cylinder damage? How would i know if i screwed something up? Will it be immidiate or later down the road cause it purrs like a kitten now... thanks again :talon:
 
national_freak said:
thanks guys, studs were just loose, one was busted, went to oriellys and got a new one and screwed it in tightly. Is there a too tight? I mean u said there could be cylinder damage? How would i know if i screwed something up? Will it be immidiate or later down the road cause it purrs like a kitten now... thanks again :talon:

I was saying that if you have a stud that was broken off in the head, somtimes they are too hard to get out, and they require drilling or what not. If you don't extract them properly, then you can damage it. But... it sounds like you were able to take care of your problem! Congrats
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top