Throttle Body Swaps

[spyderdrifter]

I think the shaft seals in my 2G throttle body are bad since there’s a loud air leak in the location on the TB. I’ve never replaced those seals on any TB, but I’ve read that it can be a pain, and that breaking them on first try is likely, sadly. I already have a set of shaft seals that I bought some time ago, and I want to install them. But in the meantime, I figured I’d put my 1G TB on as a temporary replacement. That being said, I have a few questions about swapping them.

First, since the 1G TPS has 3 wires and the 2G has 4, should I just swap my 2G TPS onto it?

Second, what is the piece I’ve circled in red, and what connects to it? Does it need to be connected on my setup (6 bolt block, 2G head)?

Third, the 1G TB has 4 vac nipples, 2G has 3. I’m sure I just need to extend them all so they hook up. The P, and E nipples are obvious, but how do I hook up the A1, and A2 nipples when the 2G TB only has A?

 

[snowborder714]

I’ve never replaced those seals on any TB, but I’ve read that it can be a pain, and that breaking them on first try is likely, sadly.

It's pretty hard to break the normal silicone-like shaft seals that most places sell. If you were to use mil.spec seals, then that's a different story. Doing a rebuild isn't terribly hard.

First, since the 1G TPS has 3 wires and the 2G has 4, should I just swap my 2G TPS onto it?

Yes.

Second, what is the piece I’ve circled in red, and what connects to it? Does it need to be connected on my setup (6 bolt block, 2G head)?

The idle switch and throttle stop for the 1g. Since the 2g wiring and TPS has the idle switch built in (it's the 4th pin in the 2g TPS that the 1g TPS doesn't have), the 1g idle switch doesn't need to be hooked up. It still needs to be there though or the throttle plate could stick.

Third, the 1G TB has 4 vac nipples, 2G has 3. I’m sure I just need to extend them all so they hook up. The P, and E nipples are obvious, but how do I hook up the A1, and A2 nipples when the 2G TB only has A?

The easy way to tell is to blow through each of the nipples and see what small hole in the throttle body bore the air comes out. This will tell you if the source needs to be pre or post throttle plate. Then just hook the vacuum line up to the nipple that gives you the same source.

 

[spyderdrifter]

All sounds good. Only thing I'm not following is for the A1 and A2 nipples. I understand being able to tell if they're pre or post throttle plate, but where would they hook to?

 

[snowborder714]

You'd hook up the A vacuum line to one of them and then cap the other.

 

[spyderdrifter]

Ok. Would it hook to the pre or post? Or can I figure that out from my 2G TB?

 

[snowborder714]

Yup, you can do the exact same test to the 2g throttle body to see what type of source it sees now.

 

[spyderdrifter]

Sweet. Thanks for the help

One other question, how can I tell if I got the silicone style seals or mil-specs?

 

[19Eclipse90]

This may help you out for reference in regards to the vacuum lines; basically a modified diagram to illustrate what Brian told you already: Vacuum diagram for a 1g in a 2g

 

[snowborder714]

If they have a metal case around them, then they are possibly mil.spec seals (you'd have to order them from a specific person and you'd know if they are mil.spec). If they are squishy and black or teal/green, then they're silicone style seals (most places/companies sell these).