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Throttle body hoses backward?

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justinh722

15+ Year Contributor
130
1
May 3, 2010
Hampton, Iowa
When I start my car up, I usually have to hold the gas until it gets warmed up. It's almost as if I had a FIAV blockoff installed. I currently have the ISC unplugged and am using ecmlink to compensate for it. My afr's are in the 10's while the engine is cold.

Is it possible to get the throttle body coolant lines backward where it won't flow through like it should? It seems as if the FIAV was working, it would open up to let more air in and result in better afr's at idle. It probably doesn't help I'm running E85 and the weather is starting to get a little cold. It has done this in warm weather, just not as bad.
 
Why do you have you ISC unplugged? That's what let's you idle easy. The FIAV just let's extra air bypass the plate until the coolant heats up enough to close the valve. Hose direction doesn't matter.

If you didn't block off the FIAV either by me tech article shown by Sam or a plate then you need the lines connected.

Hook up a good ISC and your idle will smooth out much better.
 
That's the problem. I have a 1990 throttle body and the first ISC tested fine with the coils but only buzzed when I turned the key. This ISC test's perfect and moves in and out when the key is turned forward. I could never get the ISC to get to 30 for an idle. It wants to stay at a solid 100 so I'm assuming my ECU has a bad ISC ground trace.

I'm running the car in open loop for idle. The car will idle decent once it's warmed up. I have the hoses hooked up, not bypassed. With the ISC plugged in, the idle goes all the way up to 1500-2000 rpm. My only problem now is cold startup.
 
And your idle issue will happen since you removed your ISC from working. Setting the ISC is adjusted by the BISS. If the BISS is improperly adjusted you will run to the extreme on the ISC (fully open or fully closed).

You need to ground the diagnostic pin or just use link (grounding the timing connector can help too) and slowly adjust it so your RPM matches your target itdle rpm defined by link, ISC around 30, LrndIdleAdj at 155 roughly.
 
The idle issue was with the ISC plugged in. I have tried setting the BISS screw and watching the ISC position. With the BISS all the way in, I get 100, with the BISS so far out that I hear a vacuum leak from the BISS, I get 100.

I have tried grounding the diagnostic pin through link and adjusting with the same results. I tried just grounding the timing pin with the same result. I tried grounding bolt pins but then the car idles so high that it still won't adjust.
 
I'm pretty sure this second one is a known good one. All 4 coils tested fine and it moved in and out with the key turned forward. I didn't think the ISC had anything to do with cold starts as much as the FIAV did. Shouldn't the FIAV make my car idle up when cold?
 
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