Throttle body vacuum hoses?

[bcjjones]

Trying to diagnose why the car shuts off when the a/c compressor is turned on. I have replaced the IAC valve already with a brand new one. While it did help the idle significantly it did not solve my problem. As soon as the ac is turned on the car dies. I've searched on here and found a few posts but nothing I haven't tried. I did notice that there are three hoses on top of the TB and two of them lead to no where. Which I know isn't normal. Just bought the car and slowly learning about it. Its a 1993 eclipse 2.0 none turbo. What are those three vacuum hoses?

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

When you say those hoses go "nowhere", do you mean that they are simply cut/not plugged into anything? Are they plugged or are they open flowing?

 

[bcjjones]

There open flowing going no where, just hanging out in the engine bay not hooked up to anything. None have any suction though, or very very little. Which might mean the throttle body needs a better cleaning then I did? I cleaned it but only the opening and throttle plate. Or do they not always have suction? Any idea where there supposed to go?

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

It might be best if you use this reference. if you're in an area where you can get away with it, like we can here, just perform an emission removal.

Taboo speed shop vacuum diagram and removal for 1g and 2g - Mitsu-Media

 

[jrohner]

Yeah, just get rid of the vacuum lines and plug them at the throttle body.

 

[bcjjones]

You think that will help the problem im having of the car dying with the a/c turned on? Or is that just to get rid of all those vacuum hoses so I can eliminate them as the problem? I've heard of doing this but wasn't sure of the benefits other then making the engine bay look cleaner.

I just realized that it only happens once the car starts to warm up, when cold or just starting it will maintain an idle just fine with the a/c compressor on. As soon as the temp gauge starts to move up, that's when the car sputters and dies. I mean as soon as the temp gauge moves off cold the car almost immediately dies. If that tells y'all anything

 

[Lofty]

You're doing it to both eliminate the chance of a problem and possibly fix a problem.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

A : Loftys input is 100% valid. The reason that most of us do the removal is to eliminate as many possibilities of vacuum/boost leaks as we can in one fell swoop. This will do more than simply possibly fix your current issue. It can eliminate future issues.

B : Yes, this can be the cause of your current problem. If your vehicle is unable to adjust/read/run with the proper AFRs then any strain or additional load to the system can and will cause engine issues such as the one you're having now. Additional load causes the need for additional power. If your engine cannot generate this properly then it will starve and die.

 

[bcjjones]

Okay y'all well I appreciate the time to help me out. I have a none turbo but that shouldn't make any difference. I truly respects yalls opinions and will give this a shot. I looked it over and understand what needs to be done. Curious how to make the egr block off plate where to install it, the materials needed and if the egr needs to be removed? Which are the only things I have questions about with the diagram. Also what did y'all use for caps? Like I said I appreciate everyones time and input. Im starting to really love my little car, driven trucks my whole life, and want to learn as much as I can about it. Thanks again for everything so far!

I guess the fact that it only does it when the car is warm doesn't really play much of a factor?