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Throttle body coolant bypass [Merged 9-7]

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Sorry to confuse you I could have worded that better. I would drill the holes on the right half of the TB. Not fill them. The goal of the block off is to block the shaded area in the pics. So of course you would not drill there.

If your block off plate is too thick the stock screws won't work.
 
So basically I am going to drill holes for all of them except the one that they have highlighted. I also noticed that in the second picture that they have a screw on top holding some piece of metal. When I mate the lower half of the throttle body to the top half along with the block off plate, do I need to keep that screw along with the piece of metal?
thanks for the help
 
I have drilled holes in the plate that i made for everything except the fiav hole that was shaded on this site.
http://ffwdconnection.com/flow.shtml

Now, when i put this back on my throttle body, do i have to run the tubes on the lower half of the throttle body into eachother, or does covering that one hole take care of any opening for boost to escape? So lets say that I just got the throttle body from ffwdconnection with the fiav blocked off already. Could I just leave the 2 tubes on the lower throttle body open, or do i have to run them into eachother?
thnaks for the help
 
I have an update for all of you. I went ahead and drilled holes in the block off plate that i made so that i could block the fiav off but still have the isc working through the holes i drilled. I just put it on and it works pretty well. The idle is pretty steady, not perfect because it goes between 900-1100 rpms at times when the car is parked and being turbo timed, but that is not a big deal at all. I left the tubes on the lower half of the throttle body open and did not run them into eachother because I dont think that there is a need to, the coolant never touches the air... so no leaks. Thanks for the help guys.

On a side note: this was basically the last thing that i needed to do before i go out and tune with dsmlink after having the car parked for 8 months, I am excited to say the least:sneaky: .
I also have ported the turbine housing on my 14b, and wow it holds 13psi to redline with no creep at all. This is with a straight 3" exhaust front to back, only 3" tubing and a magnaflow muffler, I love the sound on boost.
Later, and thanks for the help again.
 
So you'd agree with the statement "Blocking the FIAV is alright for a DD". Because i've debated this for a long time (especially now with jmfab's blockoff plates) but have never come to a yes or no conclusion.

But now that my motor is out, i'm looking for opinions and experiences so i can decide if i want to cut down on those lines.
 
staticbrainwash said:
So you'd agree with the statement "Blocking the FIAV is alright for a DD". Because i've debated this for a long time (especially now with jmfab's blockoff plates) but have never come to a yes or no conclusion.

But now that my motor is out, i'm looking for opinions and experiences so i can decide if i want to cut down on those lines.
I've got all the idle stuff deleted, on my summer-DD and its only a pain for the first two corners after a cold start. I doubt it would work well at all in the winter. I'm also going to start looking for a working ISC as when the AC is on, the idle drops to about 400. That will be WAY worse when I get bigger cams. So, I'd say a qualified yes, kill the FIAV on your warm weather DD.
 
I was wondering if you can unhook the coolant lines to the throttle body if the FIAV is not blocked off.
 
Well the idea behind it is that if you are in a cold, icy place that the throttle body will not frezze close. the coolant lines are for not leting it happen. Like where I am In SoCal I don't really need it.

you will drop a couple degree for the air entering the engine. Don't know if that will make any difference.

The Fiav will remain open as the wax will not close the open port since.
 
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