Thermal control valve?

[bcjjones]

Is that the correct name for it, thermal control valve? I know its used to tel the EGR when to open up and mine has a broken nipple so I need to replace it. I've called around to the local auto parts stores and no one seems to know what im talking about. Is there a different name for it?

Also been thinking of doing the emissions delete at some point if I end up moving to a safety only county. Curios if I could just block off the vacuum hose to the EGR valve as opposed to making a plate? Or would it not work the same?

Thanks for any input!

 

[xxNocturnalxx]

IIRC it's all one piece and called a EGR valve (exhaust gas recirculation) your best bet by far is to get a delete kit or make one IMO. I don't know if just capping the ends off will cause it to constantly leak exhaust into the intake or not.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

It is called the Thermo Valve in the FSM but is also referred to as a thermo vacuum valve, emissions thermo vacuum valve, thermal control valve, EGR Thermovalve etc. It is part number MD103867. It allows the EGR valve to function once the car is warmed up to normal operating temp.

If you do an emission delete get or make an EGR blockoff plate.

 

[bcjjones]

Okay cool. Its not a dealer only part though is it?

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

Okay cool. Its not a dealer only part though is it?

My guess is that it is, although I'm not 100% sure. I just checked autozone.com and rockauto.com and neither carry it. Your best bet would be a local junkyard or Mitsubishi Graveyard.

Of course if you are going to eliminate your emissions then this part will no longer be needed. So you need to figure out what you are going to with your emission first. If you eliminate your emissions you can leave the thermo valve in the thermostat housing OR you can remove it and install a 3/8" pipe plug in its place just to clean up.

 

[bcjjones]

Yea I was thinking that. I am still trying to figure out why the car dies when the a/c is on. My guess now is that the EGR isn't functioning properly due to that Thermo valve not being hooked up. Because it works fine cold, but when the car warms up is when it starts dying with the a/c on. And I know that's when the Thermo valve triggers the EGR to open up. So that's my guess, the EGR valve isnt opening like it should when the car warms up due to the Thermo valve. Which is causing ther car to die. Does thstit sound plausible? Ill probably pick one up from a salvage yard because it doesn't seem like they could really go bad other then the plastic breaking? I appreciate the help fellas

 

[kccombs]

I had to replace my thermo valve before and only place i found 1 was a dealership. But that was also way before i knew of these great guys here. Good luck man.

 

[RedEyeBanDiT]

Car dies when a/c comes on?? Check your base timing make sure its at 5 degrees.

 

[T is for TURBO]

could be way out of position ISC

 

[bcjjones]

Timing should be good. Ill have to check it again though.

I put a new ISC in it when i bought it. How would it be out of sink? And how would i go about getting it back in sink?

I started to just think it might be the compressor itself, because like i said, while driving if i turn the a/c compressor on it bogs down the car. Even on the highway i can feel it when it turns on, justs a bogged down feeling. I can even tell when the a/c clutch disengages because its almos like something is holding the car back and then when the a/c disengages its as if that something let go and the car doesnt feel boged down. Again when it engages though i can feel it. It is less pronounced on the highway, because of the speed but its very noticeable while going in town speeds

It idles and runs fine otherwise. It is running really rich though

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

I put a new ISC in it when i bought it. How would it be out of sink? And how would i go about getting it back in sink?

Adjust the BISS screw: 1G BISS Adjustment

 

[bcjjones]

I have adjusted the BISS already. I guess that would be how to correct the ISC if it were out of adjustment?

BISS is adjusted, Throttle body cleaned, New ISC motor, Idle switch was adjusted properly but I broke the tap the wire plugs into but was having the problem before. Will replace that this week. No Idle surge problem either.

I was thinking maybe the FIAV is bad or going bad because it does take a little while to start every once in a while. But wouldnt I have an idle surge if that were the case?

Still leaning toward the a/c compressor going bad. I mean it shouldnt bog the car down like that should it? Especially at highway speeds right?

 

[xxNocturnalxx]

I'm going to say it's the a/c compressor. I had the same issue on my 92 gsx, eventually it seized up and started burning my belt, almost had a bad fire on my hands, had to run to a grocery store and by a large knife at 2am to cut the belt off

 

[Auto RS T]

Dealer only item. Last one I got from JNZ for around $30. 1 in 5 will be good from the junkyard from my experience.

If a hose is hanging there with the nipple broken, you have a vacuum leak which could cause your car to stall.