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The road to 600whp

Year
1995
Model/Trim
Eagle Talon TSi

jpmxrider489

Supporting VIP
2,229
55
Apr 4, 2010
pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
Did you buy pick up another one?

I just picked up a empty shell that was in better shape than my old one. My old one there was a bunch of electrical stuff that could have been better. It was pretty much a hackjob since highschool. Now, this is a chance to do everything better. My old shell went to the scrapyard.
 

jpmxrider489

Supporting VIP
2,229
55
Apr 4, 2010
pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
Here are some progress pics of the paint process. I attached them in my other thread. I figured I would post them here as well.

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jpmxrider489

Supporting VIP
2,229
55
Apr 4, 2010
pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
Here is some more pics of progress. I put studs in the block for the oil pan. I was battling a leak the threads seamed weak. I just left bolts for around the turbo drain for ease of installation. I also installed a 3g shifter. I am still working on the wiring a bit. Not to good at electrical. I installed some volk suspension and sway bars. I did the brembo upgrade that I moved over to this car. I started working on the firewall. I also installed struts for the hood. Very cheap and easy mod to do. Makes it look much cleaner. I also did the aerocatch hood pins as well. I installed the volk subframe bushings as well. All the suspension has prothane bushings to. Just didnt get many pics of the install. Did the battery relocation and installed the kill switch.

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jpmxrider489

Supporting VIP
2,229
55
Apr 4, 2010
pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
After I tightened the bolts half of them were on the edge to stripping. 2 were stripped right next to each other. I was fighting a oil leak there because the previous owner of the pan bend the lip. So I figured studs would allow more clamping force. I had to helicoil some as well. But the studs were a great thing. I read some posts about it being hard to install a pan but I didnt think so.
What made you stud the oil pan?
 

jpmxrider489

Supporting VIP
2,229
55
Apr 4, 2010
pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
Got the fuse box installed. Power steering reservoir and trans cooler mounted. Mounted stuff on the firewall.

Got the fuel pump installed and had to use a spacer with gaskets to prevent the pump from hitting the bottom of the tank.
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1990TSIAWDTALON

Moderator
7,487
3,576
Nov 14, 2013
Independence, Kansas
Any tips to installing the hood pins??? I don't want to make a mistake and mess up a new VIS hood .
 

jpmxrider489

Supporting VIP
2,229
55
Apr 4, 2010
pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
Any tips to installing the hood pins??? I don't want to make a mistake and mess up a new VIS hood .

Im sure you seen this thread.
https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/aerocatch-install.474685/

But I made a cardboard template. I also used the radiator bracket support holes to thread in the hood pin. The issue I had was the pins had to be at a angle. So I had to encourage them into the right angle. You can use a dab of paint, anitseize, toothpaste or whatever you choose to put on top of the pin to see where it hits in the bottom of the hood. I like using the rad bracket holes because then you dont have to drill a extra hole. Plus you dont need to put a nut on the bottom to lock it in. It just made most sense given there symmetrical as well. Make sure you do your best to drill the holes even. If you dont the bracket wont fit right. The hardest part for me, was cutting the skeleton on the bottom of the hood. I hope this helps.
 

1990TSIAWDTALON

Moderator
7,487
3,576
Nov 14, 2013
Independence, Kansas
Im sure you seen this thread.
https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/aerocatch-install.474685/

But I made a cardboard template. I also used the radiator bracket support holes to thread in the hood pin. The issue I had was the pins had to be at a angle. So I had to encourage them into the right angle. You can use a dab of paint, anitseize, toothpaste or whatever you choose to put on top of the pin to see where it hits in the bottom of the hood. I like using the rad bracket holes because then you dont have to drill a extra hole. Plus you dont need to put a nut on the bottom to lock it in. It just made most sense given there symmetrical as well. Make sure you do your best to drill the holes even. If you dont the bracket wont fit right. The hardest part for me, was cutting the skeleton on the bottom of the hood. I hope this helps.
A "BIG" help, thanks. I hadn't seen the thread so I appreciate it! :thumb:
I don't think my CF hood has those supports to cut out, I will need to get it out of the box and look.
Marty
 

jpmxrider489

Supporting VIP
2,229
55
Apr 4, 2010
pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
I dont have any pics. But I went through all the hastle of getting my auto setup with my 3g shifter, valve body, and large tranny cooler. Got it ready just in time for the shootout. I was pumped. On my 4th run, the auto trans is toast. Drained the oil, found metal shavings, pulled the pan, found chunks of metal. The when In drive in clanks loud and feels like something is going to fall off.

So over the last 2 days. I have converted my auto to a manual. I threw in my old manual trans, installed the reserviour and clutch line. And drove it home today. A day and a half to do a full auto to manual seems to be a record for me.
 

jpmxrider489

Supporting VIP
2,229
55
Apr 4, 2010
pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
This really isn't much of a update but was going through my pictures and wanted to show progression since i was 16. And now here is where I am 12 years later.

A little context to the pics. The black eclipse was my first dsm. It was a 420a. Mom said no turbo and dad said no manual. That car was a rust bucket but it go me my license.

I then went to the blue 2g. Its a talon tsi fwd manual. This was my senior project in high school. Along the way, I picked up the white 2g shell as a donor car for suspension and wiring. I took everything I could out of that car.

I then picked up the 1g tsi. I didn't do much with that car. I only had it for a month. I had to get rid of it for room in the driveway.

The white talon was the result of my senior project. It was the blue talon that we painted white. That car was bone stock. We put a small 16g on there. As a grad present, I was given dsmlink lite. That is when my dsm world kicked off. This car was hit in the quarter and we got it fixed along with the paintjob for 800. The quarter was all bondo. The spare tire well was rusted. But this car also is what held most of my upgrades you see now.

I then had the chance to pick up a buddy's 2g talon tsi. It was a very clean car. No rust anywhere. Body was clean other than the paint. I moved all my stuff over to this shell. All the suspension, interior, and motor. I gutted the car bone dry. I then started the body work to get this painted. This is where I am now currently.

A little story. So I was working on this car every day after work. Putting in 4 hours a night and 12 on weekends for months trying to get to the shootout. I went to the shootout without much testing on my auto trans which I never drove before. The car went to the alignment shop and the next morning we were going to the shootout. I go get the uhaul trailer and its finally kicking in that I did it. I go to pull the car on the trailer and my front left brake line failed. It was by the grace of god this happened in my driveway driving on the trailer. Not to mention, for 3 days straight I am testing the car in Mexico going 150 mph and driving the car hard. I was granted another day to live. Or would of ended up in the cornfield after the shutdown at Kevin's track. So I replaced the front brake lines and 3 hours later the car was on the trailer. I drove everywhere looking for a dang fitting. Just to learn I had one tucked in one of my parts bins.

Im probably going to keep posting updates like this. Its hard for me to put things in time order. If there is a structure you guys would rather see let me know. I could try and order it in parts progression. Meaning I can show the fuel system upgrade over the years. Let me know what you guys think of this whole update. I hope I provided enough context.
 

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jpmxrider489

Supporting VIP
2,229
55
Apr 4, 2010
pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
Here are some carnage photos. Some of the broke valve. Which happened because of a valve spring failure. Some of the auto trans. The broken spider gears and what I found in the pan. These are what led to the build I am doing now. Some of the worn auto clutches.
 

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1990TSIAWDTALON

Moderator
7,487
3,576
Nov 14, 2013
Independence, Kansas
I had my center dif welded up to TRY to avoid some of that. I haven't ever had one but I will hopefully find out this spring.
 

jpmxrider489

Supporting VIP
2,229
55
Apr 4, 2010
pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
Update. Got my IPT TC in as well as the lsd and clutch packs. I installed the motor and trans and got most of the stuff buttoned up. Re worked the tranny cooler and oil cooler. I got rid of my power steering cooler that I put on the driver side to make room. I was planning on running 2 trans coolers but I will just add one if I need a second. I wanted to make room to do a side exit exhaust.

I installed the boosted fabrications crossmember. I can confirm this does fit. I am running 6 bolt with 2g auto trans.

I am looking for feedback for improvements on my wastegate and coolant lines for the gates. I have the feed from the factory turbo feed on the thermostat and It returns to a bung on the water pipe. I am not happy with the look of all the lines. I am looking for a cleaner way to do this. My boost lines could be improved but are all equal in length. Its just a lot of clutter.

My idea I saw is from papadokis on youtube. His boost lines for the gates were easy. Rather than having multiple teas, He used the gate as the T. He simply had one line run to the other gate and then went to the sources.
 

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