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The Official "What's this DSM worth?" Thread

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well the value depends- the rebuild would slightly raise the value but then the mods would drop it quite a bit. when vehicles are modded they lose value as they are no longer stock and its usually something that would void a warranty. its actual value comes down to what ur willing to pay for it. if you were planning on getting those mods pay a little more than a stock car, but if no body else is interested (yea right) act like mods are a bad thing and go lower.
 
Just remembered it had a cai, 2g intake...I think ported, an act2600, or 2100 clutch, and a walbro 255 fuel pump.

He is asking $5600.
What should I offer, and also, do you guys have any idea on what the hp could be, conservatively?
 
That's not a bad price... Especially for a freshly rebuilt motor. I mean, the mods alone would probably run you 2 grand or so. Maybe try and talk him down a bit, but it seems fairly reasonable to me. Power wise, if he has full exhaust, fuel pump and a decent tune I would guess at 15psi he's probably running around 300bhp, good for maybe mid 13's in the 1/4. *shrugs* If you buy it, get a fmic and any fuel mods he doesn't have yet and tune it up to 20-22psi, if you're a good driver you could pull mid 12's with that setup.
 
What would it take to run 11's? I know its a newB question, but Just wondering.

Already said, but it has, (that I know of):
16g turbo
550 cc injectors
255 walbro fuel pump
act 2600, or 2100 clutch
2g intake ported
No balance shafts
Forged Wiseco pistons and rods
Greddy type-s blow of valve
2 or 3" exhaust

What else to run 11's (High 11's anyway)
Maybe...
fmic
safc
Ported/Polished head?
Maf-s modifying
?????
???


Also, can I turn the boost down whenever I want to, to say...4 psi? or 1psi? or whatever....
Would that get me good or better gas mileage?
After turning it down, can I turn the boost right up?

Do I have to mess with the s-afc to turn the boost up and down?

At what Boost Psi would I hit fuel cut with all of the fuel mods done to this car?

thanks, chad
 
Sorry i can't offer much help with the parts needed to get it to run 11's, but don't forget the more after market parts it has the more fuel it will consumer and the more often something will go wrong with it...

With all those mods it will deffinately won't be a good daily driver...but a heck of a weekend car :thumb:

halik
 
halik008 said:
Sorry i can't offer much help with the parts needed to get it to run 11's, but don't forget the more after market parts it has the more fuel it will consumer and the more often something will go wrong with it...

With all those mods it will deffinately won't be a good daily driver...but a heck of a weekend car :thumb:

halik

Untrue.
 
I ended up not getting the car, it turns out that the engine was not built with good rods and pistons, but just rebuilt with the regular stuff at a cheap engine shop, and it also does not have the 550's or the 255 walbro.
All it had was a rebuilt engine bored .20 over with removed balance shafts, an electronic boost controller, catback exhaust, and a 16g turbo.


But I did find a good deal on a white 1998 mitsubishi eclipse gsx turbo 5-speed with 96,000 miles, black leather interior, and really nice original paint.

It is all stock.

Does anyone know what those are worth?
 
The guy on this white 1998 Eclipse GSX 5-speed with black leather and 96k is asking $6,500.
is that a good deal?
 
novaguy14 said:
The guy on this white 1998 Eclipse GSX 5-speed with black leather and 96k is asking $6,500.
is that a good deal?


Thats a very good deal. It would have crankwalked by now if something was up. I say snatch it up! look it over well though.
 
What can I do to prevent crank walk?

Also, is crank walk for sure going to happen for sure sooner or later if I do buy this car?

What other major problems are known to go wrong, or most likely will soon, if any?

What all should I look for? I am going to look at and drive the car in about 1 hour, and does anyone any suggestions as what to look for concerning crank walk, and any other known gsx problems?

How much does it cost to replace the timing belt, and is it possible to do it yourself, if so, how long does it take?

Any suggestions appreciated

thanks, chad
 
No worries crank walk is over rated... and if it does just go get a 6 bolt motor and swap parts in there... which doesnt cost too much, and most parts are interchangable....

That is a great deal for a 98 GSX....

11s in a GSX is a little different from a 11 seconds in a GST... You can reach 11 seconds with a 16g in a AWD... what it would take is probably race gas, some slicks, some good tuning, and good driving...

You will prob need a FMIC, something to tune with, injectors, turbo, and other supporting mods, and a full exhuast.
 
novaguy14 said:
What can I do to prevent crank walk?

Also, is crank walk for sure going to happen for sure sooner or later if I do buy this <A TITLE="Click for more information about car" STYLE="text-decoration: none; border-bottom: medium solid green;" HREF="http://search.targetwords.com/u.search?x=5977|1||||cars|AA1VDw"><A TITLE="Click for more information about car" STYLE="text-decoration: none; border-bottom: medium solid green;" HREF="http://search.targetwords.com/u.search?x=5977|1||||cars|AA1VDw"><A TITLE="Click for more information about car" STYLE="text-decoration: none; border-bottom: medium solid green;" HREF="http://search.targetwords.com/u.search?x=5977|1||||cars|AA1VDw">car</A></A></A>?

What other major problems are known to go wrong, or most likely will soon, if any?

What all should I look for? I am going to look at and drive the car in about 1 hour, and does anyone any suggestions as what to look for concerning crank walk, and any other known gsx problems?

How much does it cost to replace the timing belt, and is it possible to do it yourself, if so, how long does it take?

Any suggestions appreciated

thanks, chad

Chad,

You'll know if the car has crankwalk or not by driving it. If it's 5 speed (in which most cases do occur) see if the clutch pedal stays stuck around left turns. I will say this though: Crankwalk is relatively rare, and only happens in certain cases. 98 and 99 were good years which didnt walk so much. I believe it happened to alot of 97's.

As far as maintainence, by now the suspension may start to need some work. Wheel bearings, struts, shocks, and control arms may be at the last of their life. Check the brakes.

Timing belt is usually done along with water pump, tensioner and other such things. Expect to pay $600 or so for the complete job. Or save yourself money and DIY. Pretty easy to do and many of us do our own work. Cuts the costs ALOT.

Look the car over carefully, and take your time.


Jim
 
I am looking at a 97 eclipse spyder gs-t 112 thousand miles for 6k is this too many miles for a turbocharged car? no crankwalk has been seen on it. is it worth it?
 
i think you should and try to find a better one since i barely got my 97 eclipse gst-t at 120k for 6500 and just say it had many problems.
 
I'd say they are probably getting rid of it because they know something you don't. The fact that is is turbo, I would be very wary. You don't know what kid was driving it...red lining the holy hell out of it non stop. Maybe test drive it, and take it to a shop or a mechanical friend to see what they say...they will probably pick up on certain things that you may miss.
 
Like any car you buy that is used, get it looked at. Check the normal things and checkup on wrecks or major work that has ever been done.


I bought my 97 with 30k on it for 10k. That is 4k more but 25% of the miles that one has.
 
midnigt, When did you buy yours? I just bought a 98 GSX for 6k with 85k miles. (just bought, meaning a few months ago)
 
2 years ago

It was bone stock. I checked it over with a fine toothed comb. ;)


The high price was because of the moneuy war that was going on with the car. It was originally put up for 8k, but money was not an object. Back then atleast. Since then, I have bought a house, car, and have a new daughter. Money is more of an object now then ever. :thumb:
 
Ok guy I am looking to buy my first DSM and I already have my eye out on one in my area ( Massachusetts ) there arn't alot here so this is the best one I could find.

Anyways it is going for 15.9k and he said he would drop it down to $14.9 anyways the car has alot done to it

downpipe 100
cat/pipe 100
catback - n1 550
plug wires 85
grewddy uicp 150
bov type s 125
greddy 24R FMIC 950
tbolt clamps 65
14b 150
install kit 200
MBC 40
Tein flex 1495
ACT2100 329
ACT lightened flywheel 269
B&M short shift 225
Symborski shifter kit 40.00
Denso pump 105
RC 550s 375
Powerslot front rotors 110
Porterfield pads 99
Motegi Mr7 18x17.5 900
Toyo t1-s - 900
Apexi Boost & EGT 350
Carbon Fiber Apillar 89
Super AFC 250
VIS Carbon Hood 550
Carbon dash 205
cabontrix knob 45
cabon bezel 25
clear sides 25
reverse indiglo guages 50


Those are the things he added to the car along with the price next to them making it a grand total of $9,041 but anyways What do you guys think of it, I am basically trying to get a gsx into the 11's but anyways here are a few questions, how much do you think it would cost to get a gsx into the 11's secondly is it worth it getting a done up gsx or should i get a high mi. one and do a race motor swap, I heard they go for like $2k but anyways what do you guys think..... Any help would be awesome.. thankyou so much ahead of time.... I appreciate it.
 
Well, it's hard to say if its worth it or not because there is no picture of the car, let alone a description of what car your even talking about. There is also no pinpoint on a dollar figure of how much it would cost to get into 11's. There are several ways to, but there are many more things to consider than that. Do you drag race or auto X? How often is the car driven? What kind of sacrifices (drivability wise) are you willing to make to have that fast of a car? Are you knowledgable enough to tune and maintain a car with that type of power?

My advise is that you read ALOT, until your eyes and brain hurt, about how these cars work and what you need to do to keep a car with 400hp + running properly. Also, just speaking in my honest opinion, it's much better for a newbie to buy a stock DSM and build from the ground up. That way, you will get a sense of where you need to start to get your DSM to the level you want it to be at. This is a great place to start:

1G:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/tuning-guide/1gturbo/

2G:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/tuning-guide/2gturbo/
 
I saw the parts....what kinda car are they on?

Pics say alot too.

14.5K is alot of money.

You can go 11's for ALOT less though.

I need pics, a car to start with, and what mods it currently has...to even begin to tell you what its worth.....ohh and mileage is a factor too.

gsxtacy
 
Ok the parts I listed are the ones he installed

Now I would like to drive the car everyday, I know the car would be in the shop alot getting things done, but I would still like to drive it everyday that it is out of the shop..... The car is selling for $14.9 the car is in perfect condition on the exterior... silver with a black CF hood. the car has no dents never been painted , very good body.... the car also has 94k miles on the bottom end , it just got a new head.... also what do you recommend after you read on what I want to do .. 1g or 2g?
 
The decision is up to you upon your personal preferences and your budget. Search around and see the disadvantages of the 1G and 2G. No one is going to spoon feed you info, you really need to search topics and get a feeling of what your getting into.
 
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