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The Official "What's this DSM worth?" Thread

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Also keep in mind that he may have done these mods himself. So if he isn't fully capable of installing these mods, then question whether it's a safe deal.
IMO, I don't like the idea of buying a pre-modded car. 1st off it takes the fun out of modding a stock car, and second, it's a risk...A risk that most likely isn't covered by insurance.


But if you think it's a good deal,then go for it. In terms of a bargain, I think its definately a good price.
 
wait guys it sounds like hes selling, not buying the DSM.What year is it?You might be able to get a little more than 8 for it.
 
Originally posted by Maximum404
This will be my first DSM car and was wondering if it is a good buy, thanks.

He's buying, he just copy'd and pasted the ad.
 
I think he just copied and pasted the FOR SALE ad. :thumb:

EDIT: You beat me to it.;)

If it was raced and is already modded take it all into consideration. If you have a local dsm shop get them to do a little look through and maybe even drive it.
 
:laugh:

well in that case, well me personally, im searching for a stock DSM, chances are it will be more reliable becuase it hasnt been raced or beaten.Plus I get to do all the mods myself which is the fun part :thumb:

But if it is in good condition, and thats what your looking for, it is a good deal
 
Ok, I'm thinking about selling my 98 gs-t spyder, buying an older car and a bike. What can I expect to get out of my car? It is a 98 GS-T Spyder in near perfect condition. It has 68,000 miles on it, all records, oil changed every 2,500 miles, and a brand new transmission at roughly 61,000 miles. I am the second owner (bought it with roughly 54,000 miles) and it has a clean title.

Mods are as follows: Autometer boost and air/fuel, K&N FIPK, RRE Upper IC Pipe, Greddy Type S BOV, Greddy Turbo Timer, Hallman MBC, RNR Racing 2.5" downpipe with testpipe, Thermal R&D Catback, free mods, Eibach Sportlines, Koni Yellows, Ingalls front and rear camber kits, Alpine Headunit with MP3, and Boston Acoustics front and rear speakers.

Like I said before everything on this car is near perfect. Here are some fairly recent pictures.

4139ap20-014.jpg
4139jn23-004.jpg
4139ap20-011.jpg
4139ap20-012.jpg


There are other photos available in my gallery.

JK
 
Judging by what I've seen on ebay lately you should be able to get at least 12k, and maybe up to 15.5k. If you do list it there, make sure and let the buyer know things like "blow off valve and turbo timer installed to increase turbo life, exhaust for more efficiency," and things like that...it makes upgrades easier to accept for someone who hasn't had them done themselves. Good luck =)
 
Ok ive been looking around for a dsm for a while and mainly wanting a AWD version. I found one not to far from me, for $5000 (wanted 5500 obo, will agree on 5k)

well I went to look at the car (1995 talon TSi) on saturday, owner was nice and seemed like a cool guy, didnt seem like he was really hiding anything, accept I know he used to have a T3/T04E turbo on there for 1k miles, so if hes reading this, well I did my homework on ya :p,but no worries.

anywho, the overall exterior body seemed in pretty good shape, like the paint wasnt perfect or anything but it was there for the most part and wasnt really any scratches or dents. one thing I did find however was some rust in the engine compartment on the shock towers.

lemme get a pic so I can circle where it was at....ok this isnt his engine but I drew on it to represent the area...

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the rust isnt all the way through but probably to the point of needing repair, especially on the left side, but body work isnt really a problem for me. but whats the deal with this, is it a dsm thing? my buddy was looking at a 96 gsx that had the same thing, what causes it?

Also im wondering, is it true talon TSi only had the big retarted (no offence) wing on 97+?

ok now other then that lets get to the driving. it drove very smooth and shifted very smooth as well, but one thing I noticed which I have never seen before was in 4th gear sometimes when I pushed the gas I could feel the shifter move forward very slightly? whats the deal with this? and the clutch seemed very smooth untill almost fully pressed down then it got a bit harder....is that normal?

and where is the boost guage normally pointed at? this one was around 1/4 , on the bottom side.

other then that the car drove great...seemed to get up and go really good and got to 80 no problem at all, I never hammered on the car because I didnt want to break it, but it seemed slower then my buddies 1g FWD laser (I didnt seem to get pushed in my seat to much, but I wasnt really paying attention so I could just be dumb, plus you know when your accelerating so you can resist it)

interior was all good, pretty much everything worked, well the stuff I wanted to anyway, rest I could care less about.

Now the engine. I open the hood with it running, and its clean, but not to clean which is good, didnt appear to be leaking anything. but then I notice the engine is ticking. the owner says its just kinda because its a 2G thing, and its a cold morning, and says probly go away if I rev it, so he revved it a little, and it was gone. So is it true its a 2G thing or are the lifters going on it?

The windshield also has a crack across the bottom from a rock chip, in the area of the wiper, but he is going to try and get me one to replace it with.


- so run down is 1995 Talon TSi AWD, 96k miles, with those worries above. otherwise good condition. is it worth the 5k? keep in mind this car will be modded heavily, and just needs to run for a few months before I put a new 6 bolt in. body stuff will be taken care of with body kit ect, and repainted so will be like new. Sound like a good buy?

all opinions appreciated, and would like responses asap!

unfortunately my friend couldnt come that day to look at it with me.

thanks for any responses.

P.S. if anyone wants to be nice and run this vin for me....

4E3AL54F8SE106718

id really appreciate it (email result to [email protected])
 
Sounds good. I payed $4500 for my 8 months ago with 99k. The ticking is probably the injectors. It's normal for the shifter to move when you press the gas hard while crusiing(the whole tranny+motor moves, the mounts arent solid) Did it happen only in 4th gear? Overall, it's a ok price. I believe the blue book value is lower. Are you sure the car wasn't really modified before? For you to run a t3/t4, you need a long mod list.
 
yea it was only in 4th and I barely noticed it when I did.

He posted he had one for sale on here thats why I say that, he said he only had it running at 18psi when it was on.

so should I offer him like 4800 on the spot or something and see what he does? or stay with the 5k.

frankly 200 bucks is worth it to me if I have to, seeing how this car is so impossible to find, and this one is like 30 minutes from me, id hate to let it go.
 
It sounds like a reasonable deal to me. The engine compartment looks very well kept too. I paid 6K for mine with slightly less miles (90K) and a decent number of mods on it already. As well, it is a 96.

The ticking you hear might be the lifters. I know it is a common problem with the 2Gs, and it can be solved by cleaning them without the need to purchase entirely new ones, most of the time...

The reason your friend's 1G FWD probably felt more powerful is because they weigh 250 pounds less, and the 1G turbo gives the car a powerband that is closer to the redline, which is better for drag racing.

If it's the stock boost gauge, don't worry about where it's pointing. It is a worthless turd anyway.
 
Originally posted by CowPimp
The engine compartment looks very well kept too.

If it's the stock boost gauge, don't worry about where it's pointing. It is a worthless turd anyway.

That wasnt his engine comparment, but its not to far from it, looked pretty well kept, accept those rust spots.

Originally posted by CowPimp
If it's the stock boost gauge, don't worry about where it's pointing. It is a worthless turd anyway.

Yea thats what I hear.
 
I wouldn't worry about the shifter knob movement. My '91 does that after a rebuild, oh, ten years ago, and I have never had a problem with it. I remember reading a site where you can adjust it to minimize the movement.

The ticking noise, as stated, is probably the lifters. Nothing to worry about, really.

The boost gauge sounds normal, it's at that position at idle and when the boost is off.

I would be a little concerned about the rust since it's in the area of the shock towers. Make sure it can be repaired safely.

As for the windshield, it's best to get an OEM glass and not an aftermarket. Aftermarket glass can have distortions in the corners. The OE glass is made by AP Tech. Look for the label on the lower left side.

You never mentioned the mileage?:confused:
 
ok so from what im hearing the movement and little ticking is nothing to worry about, so thats good.

The rust as you said to make sure it can be repaired safely, wasnt really a worry of mine because I can do that easy, and if not I know many people who can, so thats not much of an issue.

and I did mention the miles, 96k OMG

and he was going to get an OEM shield, some kid down the road from him was parting out a 2g clipse so hes gonna try to get that for me.

think im going to offer him 4900, so I can use that 100 to pay for materials to repair the rust spots.

this is definately the best deal I have found on one of these, the only other one near this price was for 4k, was 3 hours away, and had 177k miles on it.
 
well the carfax is clean, and I forgot to mention he said the check engine light went on the other day, but the checker thing says its one of the O2 sensors, so no big deal.

Gonna offer him 4800 and see what he says.
 
offer him $4500, all he can do is say no and you just pay more, it wont hurt to try and haggle him down, just go to his house with cash, pull a big wad out of your pocket, and say "will you take $4500 for it?" he may countet with $4800 or so, then you say $4600, then finally agree on $4700 or something, hell a few hundred bucks is a few hundred bucks, shoot low, becuase you know he's shooting high, it all about reaching an agreement in the middle somewhere:thumb:
 
Im the buddy that he was talking about. And its a 95 GSX, And here is a shot of the passengerside, its the one that looks worse, other side is a lot better looking anyway... here is a photo of the car plz tell me if its going to be a bi***, my dad restores cars so i know he could fix it, but he is being a dick and dont want me to buy a gsx so I gotta do everything on my own on this; maybe when I get it he will work on it, but he wont even look at the car to see if im wasting my time.
 

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yea the TSi was worse in that spot too, I guess its a common 2g thing from what I hear. the tsi is just surface rust I think and not actually rusted the shock tower, owner told me body shops say its easy to fix, but you never know.

GSX looks like it may have went through on the very left side, but thats better then on the tower.
 
I found a Black 97 Spyder Eclipse Conv for 5499.00 today it has 147k miles on it.. But the description is a bit weird..

"There are some small tears in the top and small defects around the car due to bent track bars"


What are track bars? LOL And other then the miles, "is this car worth it?"

Thanks in advanced :)
 
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