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The Official "What's this DSM worth?" Thread

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108,000 on the body and engine. The car condition is good except for the broken skirt and the crack on the windshield. Interior is very clean, leather hardly worn.

And yes i was thinking 2k is a good deal even with a blow motor. After all these r GSX. I figure i can get back $400 by selling the tranny alone.

The turbo is also good.
 
Are looking at keeping the car or selling it for parts? Where is the car located I would be interested in buying.
 
Buy it and throw in a 6-bolt for sure. Thats a good deal. You would want to do a 6-bolt swap in the future anyway. Maybe you can even get him down a little bit.
 
Originally posted by Infiltrate2000
108,000 on the body and engine. The car condition is good except for the broken skirt and the crack on the windshield. Interior is very clean, leather hardly worn.

And yes i was thinking 2k is a good deal even with a blow motor. After all these r GSX. I figure i can get back $400 by selling the tranny alone.

The turbo is also good.

If he's interested why would he post the location and information on how to purchase the car? :rolleyes:

You could find out whats wrong with the engine.
Will the car crank at all?
What did they tell you about the engine "blowing up"?
You know if the tranny is good? (know for a fact?)
How big is the "crack" in the winshield?


You could always buy it, Swap a 6bolt and sell it for about 7-9k. Or swap a 6bolt and keep her. Either way is your choice.
 
Originally posted by Infiltrate2000
can i put in an entire 1g motor in? What would you guys suggest i do?

I def wants to keep the car, my car currently is a NT with auto. A GSX with stick is a big step up.


http://www.roadraceengineering.com/2g6boltmotorinstall.htm
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/1gcasin2g.htm
http://www.magnusmotorsports.com/1g2g.asp


Thats a 6bolt swap. I would buy the car, swap it and sell it if you need cash. Or keep it if you want to.

The ball is in your court.
 
If I were you I would keep the car and put a full 6 bolt engine into it. But if you decide to sell it for one reason or another please get into to contact with me.
 
hi, I am wondering what is a 1999 gsx worth? it has 70K miles, 5 speed tranny, CD/Tape player, sunroof, and everything else. The car is mostly stock.

The guy is asking for $9,999 is that a good deal? or Am I getting ripped off?

I know 99's have been up there around $14,000 or so, but things have changed that was like a year or two ago.


Thanks,

Bobby S.
 
its an fair deal. I got my GST Spyder with 27,000 miles for $16,000 after taxes this was Janurary 2003. I paid a little on the expensive side but it was the nicest 2G from the 6 that i looked at:dsm:
 
10 grand is pretty good... hard to find anything decent anymore, especially with low miles. 99 with 27k is your dream, but you pay for the few miles (16k)

I got my 97 TSI AWD for 13k with 35k miles and a lot of extras about 6 months ago or so.
 
Have the car mechanically checked. 10k is a great price, but just be safe. How's she shift? If your buying the car to mod/race, don't be scared to give her a push in the test drive. Also, my recommendation to anyone buying used... Get a Leak Down test done. Compression doesn't tell you shit.
 
I just bought a 99 eclipse GSX, 5 speed, 45k on the odo, in the boston area. Cost me $11,000 even. Only modifications were a cold air intake, a 3" exhaust, and a turbo timer. Car was well maintained, and included a car cover, 10 quarts of Mobil 1, two purolator oil filters, and the full 3 volume mitsubishi service manual. Only major problem I know of is that the transmission was replaced under warranty because the fluid all leaked out; this was a recall on the 2G eclipses so it was not too big a surprise.

Hopefully that gives you a good idea of what the car should be worth. I'd offer 9k due to the higher mileage...

BTW, sunroof is standard on GSX, I believe CD/tape is too but I could be mistaken.
 
leak down test? What is it and what about the compression test what is that? Thanks, has not worked on a car or have any car (mechanical) experience well maybe an oil change and a spare tire change.


Thanks,
Bobby S.
 
How many miles does that odometer convert to? How much is that in U.S.? Other than that it looks nice. Borrow it for a couple of hours and see if everything works. Do a compression test since that seems like a lot of miles.
 
thats about 120,000 miles.
and about 1800 US dollars.
says compression is good, but i still have to see.
 
Agreed:thumb:

Engine bay looks pretty clean for a 91...nice and dry, no oil leaks. If it purrs like a kitten jump on that beeznotch!
 
Alright, first off Im in Canada =)

I was wondering, all things consider how much would a 1990 Talon TSI AWD be worth, here are the stats.

Under 230,000kms.
Black
Fully loaded, leather, sunroof, cd/cass, 5spd.

Nothing major is wrong with it since it runs fine, breaks are decent, tires are new, new head gas and rear transfer case.

Body isnt in perfect condition, but its in paintable condition.

Soo all things considered, you can jump in this car and drive it how much would it be worth?


Thanks a hea dof time.
 
This will be my first DSM car and was wondering if it is a good buy, thanks.

My new MINI Cooper S is on the way, so I've got to make room by selling my fast and fun DSM. Of course, this car is essentially the same car mechanically as the Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX, with the same 2.0L turbocharged engine and all-wheel drive. Indy Red with black roof and wing. Tan leather interior. 5-speed manual transmission. A/C, Infinity CD/Cassette, keyless entry, power windows/locks/driver's seat, cruise control, and limited-slip rear differential. 81,350 miles. This car has the stock T-25 turbo and is a great, fun daily driver. The car's modifications provide a fantastic foundation for more power, or for autocrossing. They include:
*Koni Sport Single-adjustable shocks
*Ground Control coilover kit with front upper mounts for increased wheel travel. I have 600, 500, 400, and 325 pound springs, all 8-inches in length. The car currently has the 600s installed in the front with 325s in the rear for daily driving. This kit allows ride height adjustability as well as corner-weighting.
*RM Racing sway bars
*Rear energy suspension bushings (some installed-have the others)
*Front strut-tower bar
*Rear strut-tower bar (not installed)
*K&N Filtercharger kit
*RRE lower IC pipe
*Extreme upper IC pipe with 1G BOV
*Joe P manual boost controller
*2.5" downpipe and test pipe
*Greddy cat-back exhaust
*ACT 2600 clutch
*Lightened stock flywheel
*PMS Piggyback fuel/timing/boost computer (boost wires bypassed). There is a two-way switch at the base of the drivers seat that enables a high-boost program within the PMS computer. I never used this, but you'd want to be running 100 octane before doing this.
*VDO Boost/Vacuum Gauge
*Schroth 4-point harness
*Braided stainless brake lines
*16x8 gold BBS wheels (missing one wheel center) with Michelin MXV-4 all-season tires
*Draw-Tite Hitch
*All synthetic fluids. Mobil 1 in engine, replaced every 5,000 miles. GM Syncromesh in the transmission, Redline in transfer case and rear diff.
*Tinted side and rear windows
*Powered plug for radar detector next to rear-view mirror.

Cosmetically, the paint is in good shape with to-be-expected rock chips and the a couple minor door dings. The bottom of the front fascia is scraped up a bit as you might expect from a lowered car with a long front overhang. There is one spot behind the passenger-side headlight that was dented in by the previous owner and then hammered out. I have a close-up photo of this. It's not noticeable unless you look very closely. Other than that, the car has not been in any accidents or fender-benders. There's another spot on the leading edge of the rear wing where the paint is peeling. I have a photo of this too.

The interior is really in very good shape. The driver's side floor mat is pretty well worn, but the rest of the interior has survived the mileage very well. The plastic lever that reclines the driver's seat is missing and there's a chip on the edge of the driver's door defroster vent. I have photos that display these things as well.

Shortly after I purchased the car with 58,XXX miles, I had the timing belt replaced along with the balance shaft belt, timing belt tensioner, balance shaft belt tensioner, idler pulley, water pump, and all the accessory belts. About two years ago I had the transmission rebuilt to fix a balky 1-2 shift. The transmission has shifted perfectly since then. I have also replaced both front bearing assemblies and the driver's side front axle during my ownership. This car has had the front ball-joint recall performed, and the original owner replaced the transfer case before that recall came about. I had the transfer case inspected along with the ball joints and it was found to be good.

The ABS system fault light is on, and a mechanic determined that the ABS pump motor assembly needed to be replaced. The braking system works fine without the ABS, so I have not had this rather expensive and unnecessary repair performed. There is also a check engine light, which the same mechanic determined was due to a faulty fuel pressure solenoid. I replaced this solenoid and the CEL came back on again. The car has no driveability problems with the CEL on, so it's likely a minor fault that can be fixed relatively easily. Another mechanic has diagnosed a failing power steering pump within the last two months, which causes some erratic feedback through the wheel on slick roads. This does not affect the ability to steer the car at all, but I'd recommend having it fixed if you're keeping the car long-term. I'd guess this would cost $500-$1,000. I currently have the turbo pressure outlet line running straight to the wastegate actuator, bypassing the boost controller. This should result in a top boost pressure of about 9psi, but instead the intake manifold sees a solid 15 psi at WOT. That's about the maximum boost I'd recommend running at this point, but it may indicate that the wastegate actuator isn't working as it should. This won't be a problem if you install a new turbo, of course, or you could source a new wastegate actuator inexpensively and replace it easily. The valve cover gasket leaks, as is common with these cars. I've got a replacement gasket I will give you.

This car placed 4th in ESP at the SCCA Solo II Nationals in 2000 when owned and driven by Brian Fitzpatrick. I purchased the car with roughly 58,000 miles on it the following winter. I autocrossed it for 1 1/2 seasons, winning my local ESP championship and several local events. I have a set of Complete Custom Wheels that were used on this car that I've been trying to sell separately. If you hurry, I may still have them and we can work out a package deal.
 
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