The Official "What's this DSM worth?" Thread

[intheb0x]

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have you seen it?
is it a good price?

 

[Matt4g63]

Ive seen it on craigslist... i thought it was too good to be true. If you go look at it, make sure you do a compression test and a leak down test. Also check the turbo for shaft play and take a picture of the engine bay and post it on here or something if you dont know what to look for.

 

[Matt4g63]

Also, I dont know that any of my buddies or people that I know own it, the people that i know that are dsmers take care of their cars so thats what i was hoping for you.

 

[intheb0x]

how do i do the compression tests and a leak down test?
thanks for the heads up

 

[intheb0x]

i kind of think with this shotty work this guy has put into it it must be beat.
ill be going there tomarrow i think. i been talking to the guy alot.
it all depends what he has all done to it. i hope he was not running it at some obnoxious high boost.

 

[Matt4g63]

From the sounds of it, you will probably be ok with the obnoxious amounts of boost. He seems to know what hes doing, but that doesnt mean he isnt trying to pull a fast one. Just dont make the decision there, take some picks and post them.

 

[kenamond]

If you don't know how to do a compression test, you can learn, but the leakdown test is more complicated and requires a special tool/gauge and air compressor. You can pick up a compression tester from a auto-parts store fairly cheap. You need a spark plug socket, some anti-sieze, a ratchet and extension, and the compression tester itself. You also need a 10mm (I think) socket to get the spark plug cover off the valve cover. You want a piece of paper and pencil to write down the results so you don't forget. It would also be a good idea to take some tape to mark the plug wires so you pop them back on to the correct plugs.

The motor has to be warmed up before the test. After it's fully warmed up (coolant temp needle is horizontal), shut off the car, pop the hood, open the fuse box next to the air filter, and remove the blue "ENGINE" fuse from the fuse box so that the motor won't inject fuel or spark the plugs when you're turning over the engine during the test. Take the spark plug cover off, label the spark plug wires, and wiggle the plug wires off the plugs. Remove all four sparkplugs with the sparkplug socket, extension and ratchet, then compression test each cylinder. Screw the compression tester in where the sparkplug was, get in the car, floor the gas pedal to open up the throttle body, then turn the motor over so that you get 4 "thumps" (8 revolutions). Then read the compression tester and write it down along with the cylinder number (#1 is on the driver side, then #2, #3, and #4 go in order toward the passenger side). Relieve the pressure in the tester (mine has a little button) or you'll piss yourself when you unscrew the tester . Then go and do the next cylinder. I always test each cylinder twice and write both numbers down. When you're done, you need to put anti-sieze on the threads (for his benefit or yours if you buy the car) and torque them back into the head to spec making sure you don't cross the threads. Pick up a packet of anti-sieze when you get the compression tester (little ketchup-like packets of silver-gray goo). I forget the torque spec for the plugs, but you can search for that. It's an aluminum head, so overtorqueing could strip the head. Then refer to the labels you put on the plug wires and pop them back onto the plugs. Arrows are cast into the valve cover telling you the direction the wires should come off the plug wire caps. This helps get the wires routed correctly back in the yellowish plastic wire guides (keeps the wires separated and neatly routed under the spark plug cover). Reinstall the spark plug cover. Put the fuse back into the fuse box and replace the fuse box cover.

The service limit is 133psi, and perfect is 178psi, but no two cylinders should differ by more than 14psi. 133 is the worst you'd tolerate before a rebuild, so the closer the results are to this number, the more worn the motor is.

Here's a useful link for compression testing: http://www.geocities.com/dsmgrrrl/FAQs/compression.htm

To check turbo shaft play, you have to unclamp the intake snorkel from the turbo compressor inlet (it's a hose clamp, so take an 8mm socket or flat-head screwdriver), reach inside (cool motor), grab the nut on the end of the center of the compressor wheel, and try to wiggle it up/down, side/side, and then try pulling/pushing it in/out. There should be *no* in/out play, and there should be a small amount of side/side or up/down, but not so much that it hits the compressor housing. Also, it should spin freely.

Find out all of the upgrades he's put on the car and if the owner before him did any modification. If he has any service records for the car, get them. The timing belt should have been changed already along with a number of other parts.

If he has an aftermarket boost gauge, take it for a test drive and see how high the boost goes. If it boosts past 15psi, and he's not modified the fuel system, that's a bit too high. 20psi boost is definitely too high for stock fuel setup.

A handful of pictures of the engine bay would be good to have. If you post them here, folks can probably tell you a lot more about mods.

Check the oil after the test drive. Milky oil indicates coolant in it and a potential head gasket issue.

When you drive it, check for signs of blue or white smoke when you start it up, when you are at full throttle, and when you let off the gas. Those are other signs of problems.

That's all I can think of. It's a lot to remember, but the more you can check out, the better idea you'll have of the car's condition.

 

[intheb0x]

thanks for the huge post.
i been talking to him and he has still been working on the car.
heres what he tells me.
I am working on the car right now to try to seal up the innercooler sysytem to see if that is the problem. What was happening is the blow off vale wasnt releases pressure so I not sure if it is a vacuum hose problem and or a boost leak. When I get a little farther on working on it I will let you know what I find.

 

[vernvision]

It might be crank walk. I owned a 95 and if it is the original motor then it is probably junk. If you are loosing compression then it could be that it might have broken a ring. Mine started failing after 35K. It was partially fixed under warranty by the dealer but I didn't trust the work that was performed so I sold it shortly after so I don't know if it failed again. If the clutch stays to the floor when making a sharp left turn that is a nother indicator of this.

 

[brandenblaze]

I have an chance to pick up an complete shell of and 99 GS-T everything is in check , except no engine for $1k , is it worth the buy? how hard is it to come across and engine for this model with turbo/ trying to be cheap have about 2g for a motor /

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[omgwtfbbqcopter]

A little background on the car.

Its owned by a kid in my grade (senior in high school) and he's had it for about 1 1/2 years. Its been in a couple accidents, but its been fully repaired, and repainted. Looks amazing. All records are present since 20k miles. He's the 3rd owner. Has 159k miles.

Needs a new exhaust. Got ripped off by a tow truck, and in turn it ripped off the 02 sensor, the 02 sensor was wired up shitty so its running rich as hell now.

Its got bad boost creep that started after the exhaust was ripped off, so its probably a carboned up wastegate flapper or something. Its got an evoIII 16g turbo.

It has an ACT Street Disc clutch with about 30k on it.

Shifter feels amazing. no grinding at all, but i did "miss" reverse when i drove it.

Its missing the filler panel on the passenger's door panel. That can be found at a junkyard.

The leather interior is almost mint.

Is it normal for the DSM's to have a heavy gas pedal?

Should i go for it? He wants $5k after fixing everything... but im gonna offer him $4k for it. I'm gonna point out everything and offer $3500 then say "you know what, i'll give you $4k for it since i like you so much" hahaha

 

[xdxoxuxgx]

5k is too much, 4k is too much. I'm a senior in high school and when I bought my car last year I looked past all the little things that were wrong with the car and focused on me having a fast car in high school. This was definitely a bad decision because I'm left with a lot of work and I'm dishing out a lot of money and I'm not even out of high school yet. I would say try and get it for 3k and wish that stupid stuff doesn't go wrong on it.

 

[ROOKIE1]

WTF $5k . I only paid 8500 for mine in 95 when it was 5 years old with 54k . That is way to much . The question is will he fix the things wrong or fix it enough to sell it . I would guess the latter . I live in Ky and the assessed value this year was only $1150 . It can not possibly be that nice to warrant the high price tag . Also on the side note you may want to stay away from the 90 . It has alot of things that are only on the 90 . Not as interchangeble as the other 1g's .

 

[Littlebeeper]

and there is no way a tow truck driver could pull the O2 sensor by janking off the exhaust. unless he jacked up the motor. the o2 sensor is attached to the o2 housing which is Bolted on the turbo and is made of cast iron. if the o2 housing were yanked it would mess up the turbo and mani and possibly the hole damn motor. I highly doubt the toe truck driver yanked the car that bad. he would have noticed somthing wrong way before the o2 housing gave way. car is too much. i would pass

 

[iluvmy4g63]

i would pass. find a mom driven one for a 1000$ and then do a 1000$ in mantance. that would be best bet.

 

[kittay]

Omg he wants 5k for a 90!?!?! Esp one that has been in several wrecks.
He's in HS, so it's probably been hot rodded and not properly taken care of.

Get a pic up for us!!

 

[p1s70np0w3r]

Wow i bought my 99 awd for 3500 and i bought a 90 awd with 85k for 2500

I would offer no more than 2500 since i dought it was taken care of and it does likely have a act 2600

 

[omgwtfbbqcopter]

Omg he wants 5k for a 90!?!?! Esp one that has been in several wrecks.
He's in HS, so it's probably been hot rodded and not properly taken care of.

Get a pic up for us!!

i ran to school to take these quick pix.

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[ROOKIE1]

i ran to school to take these quick pix.

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Hood looks way off . What is the white car next to it . Plymouth ????

 

[omgwtfbbqcopter]

yeah, the hood is pretty off. Its a carbon fiber hood, and its a little too curved in the center.

The white car next to it is an AMC "Rambler" Marlin. The "Rambler" part to the Marlin is like the WS6 to the Trans Am. A girl in my grade drives it. She's into the whole classic car thing.

 

[ROOKIE1]

yeah, the hood is pretty off. Its a carbon fiber hood, and its a little too curved in the center.

The white car next to it is an AMC "Rambler" Marlin. The "Rambler" part to the Marlin is like the WS6 to the Trans Am. A girl in my grade drives it. She's into the whole classic car thing.

Seems kind of rare . Less than 18000 made over 3 years .

 

[dsm5150]

low down
91 gst.88k all original.timing belt done at 87k
rebuilt ecu
8 out of 10 on the interior
8 out of 10 on the exterior
evo mani/o2(both ported)
xero mile rebuilt/clipped/ported 14b
3" TBE from dejon
walboro 255
reverse gauges
single pod w/boost gauge
all new shifter bushings
ALL fluids changed
hatch struts are new
K&n
was going to ask 2k obo.sound fair

ok,so i have added a nice matching boost gauge and all the fuel injector seals are new.im going to post some pics when the weather gets a little better but right now im waiting on the lower seals for the injectors.i can include a 3" hi-flo carsound cat for the exhaust.ill be listing it for 2500 obo as is,buyer smogs.other than the 255 pump everything else should be fine.im going to try smogging it for shits and giggles to see if it will pass with the 255 and hi flo.if anyone wants to come see it in it current form call me.im smack dab between sac and san fran.im going to ask 2500 obo.707-249-4309

 

[dsm5150]

some shitty pics
BayAreaRacing.org • View topic - 1991 gst 88k miles,tons of new unused parts,need turbo 2800$ [ Guest ]

 

[DarkCreep]

My 190E took a shit and my friend is selling a 1996 GST in mint condition with a 1999 Front end on it. Im really tempted to buy it but I need some input first.
All I know is that its a GST, 1996, Cloth seats, cloth interior, 4 disk brakes, BOV and ricer headlights. He says the motor and tranny have been rebuilt and it throws no CEL and he just replaced o2 sensor and cat.
Im thinking of offering $2600 cash and see what he says. He has been trying to sell for the past 6 months.

He wants $3500 for it but he said hell sell for $3000. Should I get it or keep looking for something else? I was planning on my buying my cousins bone stock 1999 EK hatch in Milano red but I doubt hell cum thru.
Do these require a lot of maintanance? Im going to test drive it on Friday. If I dont like it im going to finance an EM1 Si, 4dr. GSR or a GSX.

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He has OEM paint for bumper.
INPUT PLEASE!!!

 

[DarkCreep]

PS: How hard are these to mod visually?
Do they have any JDM exterior mods like front lips, fog lights etc?

Ive tried searching other forums but all I get are Ricer Eclipses with 19"s that make my eyes bleed.

The first mods I want to do are:
Front lip
remove BOV and do whatever it takes to slap it back on the right way.
Rims
Install the system from my 190E
C pillar.