The Official "What Should I Spend Money On?" Thread [Merged 10-6]

[mirkoelek]

You will see some knock evrything over 18psi, with very good tuning maybe 20. Everything more than that you'll need higher octane gas( 100 octane would be great till 25psi)
or you could get a water/methanol injection to do the same thing.. $300 should be enough to get a good kit.

 

[krummel21]

How bout a bigger radiator wouldn't that help with knock

 

[Flash]

How bout a bigger radiator wouldn't that help with knock

No it won't.

 

[dub2gsx]

Sorry read over taht you had a fmic!

What are your coolant temps? If your going over 206 then your timing begins getting pulled which could lead to the knocking, if it goes over the 224 mark then it pulls even more timing. Also what are you air intake temps! When those are high it can knock pretty bad. I was having a simular problem after my fmic install then changed my thermastat, and put some water wetter in and that changed the temp even with the AC on to 208 sitting in traffic with amb. temp of 90+, when before it was close to 225 to 230 which is a little too hot.


Brian

 

[krummel21]

I'm thinking my intake temps were around 90 I would have to check and when doing pulls my temps would be around 206. When cruising I know it's more than that. I don't have water wetter in my radiator though which sounds like it decreases the temps quit a bit.

Right now I have 50/50 in there with that stuff I have to drain the radiator put tap water and water wetter in for best results right?

I live in Iowa obviously and it get pretty here so how much antifreeze should I use with the wetter watere and distilled water aif someone could give me exact measurments that would be great.

I could run more psi it's just that it gets so hot here sometimes that in order to ge the knock to go away I have to turn down the boost. I was running 21 psi but then it got hot.

I ws looking at water injection but was hoping there would be other options.

The radiator idea is completelyt out of question then I thought this would help for me too advance timing?

 

[ZmanIV]

Find some used cams

 

[UofACATS]

All my major current upgrades are listed in my profile.
Krummel21

You have two dsmlinks?


Seriously, I agree with "mirkoelek" when the water/methanol injection was suggested.

Although your post says,

"I live in Iowa obviously and it get pretty here..."

I assume it gets pretty cold? Although I sure its pretty too. EDIT: If you meant "hot," then lean out that mixture when you add the Water Wetter. I run 90/10.

Other than that, I think a "leaner" mixture in your radiator would help, as would the water wetter. (It helped me anyway.) One suggestion I've taken from this board is to run as lean as possible, especially in the summer months when the freezing possibilities are reduced.

Sorry for being a jerk

 

[UofACATS]

drain the radiator put tap water and water wetter in for best results right?

No tap water please, use distilled water.

 

[paper_clip_boy]

Find some used cams

You're an Idiot. He has knock issues so your advice is to run the engine even harder. Go back to the Newb forum.

 

[staticbrainwash]

As on par as that message was, the name calling and bashing isn't necessary. Think about forum rules before you start spouting names.

But i do agree, cam's are a BAD idea. He needs to run some logs to find out how and where he's getting knock, because i don't think it's as simple as a new knock sensor.

 

[dub2gsx]

Water wetter is a good friend of mine this summer
What octane do you have up there?

If you only have 91 octane that would be your problem, if 93 then it could be something else! I live in Arkansas and we have 93 everywhere but when I go up to the north to like Springfield, MO they have 91 everywhere and very few 93 gas stations. I ran 91 for a little bit because I was almost out of gas and it was the worst gas I have ever ran the car felt like someone took a dump in my gas tank! Especially in the heat of the day.

Brian

 

[krummel21]

I am thinking about puttin wetter water in the radiator since this is said to lower the numbers. Has everyone had a drop in tems from adding it? Just hoping it's not a scam which I highly doubt it is.

The thing about it is that it says to mix it with distilled water which in Iowa it gets really cold. This would freeze and wouldn't be good on anything so I would mix it with antifreze but I was wondering how much of all three of those I should put in?

Here's the link to my logs that I did when tuning my car and the problems with my knock which has all been discused if you guys want to check it out.

http://www.dsmlink.com/forums/showthread.php?p=85115#post85115

From what I understood, they thought that the knock was due to heat.

How often do you change your spark plugs?

Krummel21

 

[ZmanIV]

You're an Idiot. He has knock issues so your advice is to run the engine even harder. Go back to the Newb forum.

Wow thanks for that I really deserved it
Who here doesnt have knock issues?

 

[daren_p]

You have a 255 pump & no fpr, is it possible that you are seeing rich knock? First off what octane are you running? Where are you seeing knock and how much? (a dsmlink log would help). What are your fuel settings at? What are your fuel trims sitting at? I would probably put the money towards a fpr & a wideband. You should be able to run more then 16 psi no problem without WI with a fmic. I run 20 psi daily without knock, no WI on a fmic.

 

[staticbrainwash]

^^ And how! At least someone else agrees with me.

 

[oldman]

You're an Idiot. He has knock issues so your advice is to run the engine even harder. Go back to the Newb forum.

We don't tolerate flaming of any kind, be respectful or move on.

 

[krummel21]

if you go to that site I have a lot of logs on there. I have never heard of rich knock. The weird part is when I was tuning the car I would actually lean it out to get rid of knock. You think this could be the case. And sorry I put the wrong fuel pump I have a 190 not a 255. Should I still need a fpr?

 

[ZmanIV]

No, but did you rewire it?

 

[mirkoelek]

if you go to that site I have a lot of logs on there. I have never heard of rich knock. The weird part is when I was tuning the car I would actually lean it out to get rid of knock. You think this could be the case. And sorry I put the wrong fuel pump I have a 190 not a 255. Should I still need a fpr?

That is not uncommon that if you leaned your fuel you get rid of the knock...You are looking for perfect mixture. Dont forget timing neither, incresing you boost level you'll need to add some timing advance... You have the DSMLINK, log, log and log...You may need to get a wideband, this thing helps a lot... DSMLINK + wideband is the way to go...
I would sell your 190lp and get 255hp rewire it and add AFPR to all that. I know that you have only $300, but this should be concidered for your next upgrades...

 

[Eastwood95]

i've heard of rich knock before.........maybe you should start all over, go to the tech section and read the write up on DSMLINK tuning. I'm not trying to call you an idiot by any means, sometimes it doesnt hurt to reread the old posts and start from the top....
You DONT need a FPR with a 190lph pump.
Can you post a log here without a link? I cant get onto the DSMLINK site. I dont own a DSMLINK yet, but I am familiar with how they work and what they are capable of....

 

[krummel21]

The files are .dat so I don't know how you would open it but I can sure try. I had never heard that I would need to advance timing with boost. I thought the only way to get rid of the knock was to retard it. I must not be correct. I read the tuning guide followed it pretty much step by step. I have 680 pte's and was wondering what you guys put your globals to it's suppose to be 33% but I didn't know if pte's really flowed at 680 so I have the global set at 30% which would be like 650's.

 

[mirkoelek]

The files are .dat so I don't know how you would open it but I can sure try. I had never heard that I would need to advance timing with boost. I thought the only way to get rid of the knock was to retard it. I must not be correct. I read the tuning guide followed it pretty much step by step. I have 680 pte's and was wondering what you guys put your globals to it's suppose to be 33% but I didn't know if pte's really flowed at 680 so I have the global set at 30% which would be like 650's.

If you dont have a wideband, log A/F ratio on your DSMLINK, but make sure that you go to props and change settings for 680cc....that will give you a good estimate of you mixture... You can start from 10:1 or maybe 10.5 to be safe....Than go from there.... Dont worry to much about global settings, if you set your fuel mixture at WOT you shoudl be fine. I tried myself 1000 times to set global settings and deadtime to something perfect, following the book. But the most power i made going by sense of leaning fuel and adding some timing into the higher RPM's. Wideband would help you a lot, again. If you see knock at higher boost levels, dont freak out. That is very normal, everything could affect it (hot weather, low octane gas, intercooler , humidity etc ) Your car needs cold air, enough fuel (higher octane if possible), parts that match and a lots of tunnig. Dont understimate timing settings, be happy that you have option to adjust it. On pump gas you shouldnt worry about timing that much, where your boost level should be low. Dont go more than 18psi on pump gas.

 

[daren_p]

The files are .dat so I don't know how you would open it but I can sure try. I had never heard that I would need to advance timing with boost. I thought the only way to get rid of the knock was to retard it. I must not be correct. I read the tuning guide followed it pretty much step by step. I have 680 pte's and was wondering what you guys put your globals to it's suppose to be 33% but I didn't know if pte's really flowed at 680 so I have the global set at 30% which would be like 650's.

You can run the 190 pump without a fpr. As for tuneing you are in the ball park with your global setting. Are you logging your mid & low fuel trims? If so what are they sitting around? There is no point adjusting the rpm based sliders till you get your trims where you want them (using global & deadtime). Like my above post being to rich can cause knock, just like being to lean. What is your base fuel pressure with the vacuum hose disconnected? & again where and exactly how much knock are you seeing? My vote for your current setup is still a wideband.

 

[daren_p]

If you dont have a wideband, log A/F ratio on your DSMLINK, but make sure that you go to props and change settings for 680cc....that will give you a good estimate of you mixture... You can start from 10:1 or maybe 10.5 to be safe....Than go from there.... Dont worry to much about global settings, if you set your fuel mixture at WOT you shoudl be fine. I tried myself 1000 times to set global settings and deadtime to something perfect, following the book. But the most power i made going by sense of leaning fuel and adding some timing into the higher RPM's. Wideband would help you a lot, again. If you see knock at higher boost levels, dont freak out. That is very normal, everything could affect it (hot weather, low octane gas, intercooler , humidity etc ) Your car needs cold air, enough fuel (higher octane if possible), parts that match and a lots of tunnig. Dont understimate timing settings, be happy that you have option to adjust it. On pump gas you shouldnt worry about timing that much, where your boost level should be low. Dont go more than 18psi on pump gas.

I see some statements I don't agree with in this post. Logging the air/fuel ratio est is a good idea & if you input the proper "props" for your setup I have found it to be pretty close to my wideband once the turbo is spooled. Now as for not worring about the global setting and just adjusting the rpm sliders, thats the exact opposite of what you want to do. Sure you don't have to have the trims right on 0 all the time, but it is pointless to start adjusting the rpm sliders till you get your trims inline. As for seeing knock at higher boost levels & being normal, no it isn't. The hole idea is to turn the boost up until you start to see knock. Yes there are many things that will effect this, but you need to figure out why it is happening & correct the issue. 16 psi is defently not considered high boost. Again what octane do you run? Also 18 psi limit on pump gas, why do you say that? I run 20 psi daily on pump and don't get knock. I know others that run mid 20's on pump daily as well.

 

[mirkoelek]

I see some statements I don't agree with in this post. Logging the air/fuel ratio est is a good idea & if you input the proper "props" for your setup I have found it to be pretty close to my wideband once the turbo is spooled. Now as for not worring about the global setting and just adjusting the rpm sliders, thats the exact opposite of what you want to do. Sure you don't have to have the trims right on 0 all the time, but it is pointless to start adjusting the rpm sliders till you get your trims inline. As for seeing knock at higher boost levels & being normal, no it isn't. The hole idea is to turn the boost up until you start to see knock. Yes there are many things that will effect this, but you need to figure out why it is happening & correct the issue. 16 psi is defently not considered high boost. Again what octane do you run? Also 18 psi limit on pump gas, why do you say that? I run 20 psi daily on pump and don't get knock. I know others that run mid 20's on pump daily as well.

You live in canada, i live in arizona. Difference in outside temperature is something what you should consider. I cant run 20psi at 112 degrees and 91 octane, and see no knock. When is winter time, stuff changes...I agree that with that setting global and deadtime would help you to peciselly set you a/f ratio, but not neccesserilly only way to go. Dead time i always kept as it was in the book , but global i never cared much. Only thing i cared was a wideband reading...