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The Official "What Should I Spend Money On?" Thread [Merged 10-6]

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TSiturbo001 said:
44,000 original miles, not a chance in hell im selling this car

You're removing or rebuilding the two biggest things that make a low mileage car a good deal, the engine, and the vast majority of the drivetrain.

TSIturbo, have you driven an AWD automatic that's had mods to it?? I didn't think I'd like mine, but after just a 14b/450's/manual cams, I decided to keep mine instead of selling it for another 5 speed AWD.

I'd recommend building your engine and just putting a shift-kit in the trans, and then see if you still hate automatics.

(FWIW I hate sloppy automatics, the AOD in my Crown Vic sucks, but the AWD automatic in my Talon is definately still fun)
 
TSiturbo001 said:
OK ive got around 2500 to spend on my 6bolt. I dont know if i should go 2.0 or 2.3. Im looking at the jackson auto machine 2.3 kit amd ill assemble it myself. Or ill just go with a 2.0 and spend the extra cash getting parts together for my manual swap. i dont know what to do. Parts i already have: rebuilt head, new timing parts, waterpump, frontcase/oil pump, 6bolt block w/o balance shafts, jdm tranny. Parts i need to get the car running as a 6bolt manual: ecu, hydraulics, pedals, shift cables, engine harness, 2600clutch. I have to do this now, so im going to do it right and get the built engine ahead of time. So should i go with eagle/wiseco 2.0 all ready to go, or the JAM 2.3 kit, get it machined and take a whack at assembling myself.

2.3L OWNERS! speak up please, is it really worth the extra cash??


Hey You said you got a JDM Trans make sure you know what spline transfer case you have 22 or 23 spline.... without matching the correct transfer case no matter what you do, you will be moving no where.... Just did this, this week...
 
kyledykstra- there is alot of other stuff that goes bad with high mileage than the engine and tranny. Chassis and suspension bushings are not something i want to change. The body has much less wear, the paint is great, a car with 40k miles on it is a helluva lot more solid than a car with 140k on it.

I have never driven a fast automatic vehicle, but its not that i hate automatic transmissions, its just not fun for me. I need to be able to shift. And if i am going to swap in a 6 bolt, i might as well do the tranny while im in there.

I think im going to get the slowboy stage 1 kit for 1175.00. I talked to the shop i normally go to, Victor Research, and i was told it would be around 5-600 for assembly and machining, which would leave me about $700 for the manual swap which should be plenty.

Anyone have any opinions or experiences with these slowboy kits. i take it the cranks are used not new like the other kits out there correct??
 
TSiturbo001 said:
44,000 original miles, not a chance in hell im selling this car

on a 91??? OMG wtf? I have 44k on my 99GSX and i thought I found a gem! WOW -jammmmmer
 
SchifftyFive- yeah i know, that sucks man. im not sure which it is, its the more common one i know this. 23 spline i believe, only a few 90's were 22 spline, correct me if im wrong someone.

jammer- no thats my old car, parted that bad boy out about 6 months ago. This ones a 93', i like the 1gb's so much more. Green auto 1 owner NO MODS. very rare find if i dont say so myself, paid $500 to get it shipped to me. would have been alot cooler if it was manual but whatever. btw got it for $2500
 
TSiturbo001 said:
kyledykstra- there is alot of other stuff that goes bad with high mileage than the engine and tranny. Chassis and suspension bushings are not something i want to change. The body has much less wear, the paint is great, a car with 40k miles on it is a helluva lot more solid than a car with 140k on it.

I have never driven a fast automatic vehicle, but its not that i hate automatic transmissions, its just not fun for me. I need to be able to shift. And if i am going to swap in a 6 bolt, i might as well do the tranny while im in there.


Well... how much have you looked into the auto -> manual swap. I had a '93 AWD auto car that I was going to just pull everything out of my '90 manual and put it in there. But after looking at the clutch install, the lines, the rear end, and all that stuff, I decided to just swap in my motor, sell the car, and find another one. But then, I also didn't have the time to swap my motor and the entire drivetrain, so that was a factor.

I dunno, I'd honestly see if you can find someone with an automatic turbo DSM by you that's had some work done it, I was a hardcore "OMG automatics suck, I need to be able to shift my sports car, a sports car with an automatic can't be fun" type of guy, till I drove mine.

I'd still do the motor first and see if you'll hate it as much you think ;) It's not really that much harder to do the trans swap with the motor in.

*edit*
 
i know what youre saying, id probably grow to like it like u did. I just cant stomach the idea u know what i mean. Yeah the swap is pretty involved, im willing to do it though. I dont want the engine in my way while im trying to di the clutch lines, shifter cables, or harness. F*ck THAT. I dunno, maybe i will wait. If i dont like the automatic though, youll have hell to pay kyledykstra :mad: :laugh:
 
TSiturbo001 said:
wow only $100 bucks for hottank/bore thats not expensive at all. did u assemble it yourself?

Yea, I assembled it myself. I just went to Bushur because I didn't know anybody around here yet. Shop around for a good machinist and he will treat you right and give you good deals.

i believe the weisco's are a little more. im deff. sold on the weiscos

I actually haven't seen any new forged pistons that I would use that are cheaper than the $350 Weisco's.
 
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=144308&highlight=manual+swap

Here is a thread on converting an auto to a manual...I dont' think its that simple, but do it if you want.

Also, when you were talking about getting the SBR stage 1, is that a shortblock? I don't see what would cost 500-600 to get machined and assembled unless you got a kick-ass port and polish job with Ti internals.
 
I am also one of those manual guys that said I would never get an auto until one fell into my hands. A year later I have a b16g and all supporting mods and love the hell out of it. I figure when I either kill this car or get sick of the auto (not seeing it happen anytime soon) I can turn it into stock, sell it and put my new parts into a manual with a blown engine for cheap. Something to think about...

Oh I also thought about the manual swap, WOW is all I have to say.
 
blackGSX2g- thanks for the thread bro. ill check it out. Im talking about the actual stroker kit. Go to engine parts and there should be a section on strokers.

laxdudeee- ahhh yet another converted eh. maybe ill give it a shot. i dont know. i LOVE throwing back gears and being able to clutch the car whenever. dumping the clutch in my 91 in second gear at about a 15mph roll was so fun.

i dont know what the big deal is about the auto to manual swap. i have the tranny and xfer case and 4 bolt already, the driveshaft is compatible with both, i also have a shifter and base. i have a donor car with everything else but the ecu (harness, clutch/brake assembly, master cylinder/slave cylinder, clutch lines, shifter cables). Is that stuff really all that intimidating to you guys? Maybe im missing something...


ANYONE have any experience with sbr's stroker kits please post up please!
 
Bumpity bump for anyone with experience with SLOWBOY's stroker kits.... feb 1st im ordering that bi***, i need answers soon!!
 
I am in the process of dropping in a 2.4. I would say, go with Eagle rods, JE pistons, HKS camshafts, stiffer valve springs and a P&P head. Now you have a fully built motor. Bolt ons are easy from here. Have fun! :thumb:
 
TSiturbo001 said:
Bumpity bump for anyone with experience with SLOWBOY's stroker kits.... feb 1st im ordering that bi***, i need answers soon!!

I have heard so many bad things about their motors. Definetly do not get one of their engines!
 
talontsiturbo20- thanks for the tip bro, i wasnt planning on it, but good to know. What type of stuff have u heard?

im gunna do the head in the summer when i have the cash, thats not a big ordeal. i think im going to go with my local shop victor research and get one of there race heads. swapped onto a car, no other tweaks, same day on dyno saw an increase of like 110hp or something sick like that! p+p, ferrea 1 or 2mm oversived, fp cams, ti springs bla bla
 
talontsiturbo20 said:
I have heard so many bad things about their motors. Definetly do not get one of their engines!

BAHWHAAAAAAAA

We shipped over 110 shortblocks last year...... and we have never had a problem with one we installed...... and I just checked we are on #203 ( we stamp each block ) since 2002...... when we started numbering them....... not to mention everyone here owns a DSM, some over 400 WHP, some over 500 WHP, and even a few over 600 WHP.....

If you have had problems with one of our motors, than more than likely there was an install problem, or my favorite.... ( yes this really happened ) "I thought you shipped your motors with oil in them, you said it was ready to bolt in and go, and I burned up the motor because SBR neglected to ship the motor with oil in it" AHHHHH... please step away from the car..... before you hurt yourself.

MGH
 
just a hypothetical "what if" question...

If i where to go with a 2.0 just the rods/pistons and bearings, and i used the extra cash for building my head, what do you guys recommend i go with. Port and polish, springs and cams, or should i go a different route? i want this to be able to stand up to 9k-10k revs. My thinking now is maybe not restricting myself to a low rev limit with a 2.3 so i can get the most out of a larger turbo in the future (hx-40 or 3065 possibly). whereas before i was thinking i could get the most out of a smaller street friendly turbo with the 2.3 where the 2.0 lacks. Only revving it to 7500 where an eIII16g would start to fall off. anyones thoughts or opinions...what should i think about for drivetrain first. im not going nuts like 2mm oversized valves and, more low cost efficient upgrades to allow me to pull the most out of a large turbo. thanks
 
Ok, this is what is already ordered, or in my possesion at this time...

SAFC2
Fuel PSi guage
T4E/T3 turbo
Parts for the full stainless exhaust 2.5" O2 transistioned to 3"
35mm External wastegate
Apexi turbo Timer
Data logger
AFPR
WAL 255 LP
Fuel rail fittings to run -6 AN lines in/out.
8" JR intercooler

Parts that are being bid on or will be purchased later today

3" GM Maf
Parts for 2.5" Hard pipe
EGT
Oil Temp
DIY WBO2


Questions about...

Given I am aiming for 430+ WHP (TSi) should I get the 650 or 750 injectors?

Parts updated
 
The bigger injectors the safer you are. You can always tune them to run at less dutycycle whereas if you buy injectors too small you can only turn the dutycycle up to a point and then you need bigger injectors.
 
Trying to run 750s with the S-AFC isn't going to cut it. I think 650s are the S-AFC's max when it comes to compensating for large injectors.

Since you've got a 35mm external gate, you might want to go ahead and purchase an exhaust manifold or o2 housing that is setup for an external gate.

Also, that beast won't get very far on the stock clutch :D I'd pick up an ACT2600 (or whatever you brand you want) too.
 
will he need an FPR with that 255LP and id also suggest grabbing an inline fuel filter
 
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