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The Infamous Clutch Install

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Drvlikeustoleit

Probationary Member
20
0
Dec 2, 2008
Belfry, Montana
Alright well the time has finally come. My dad being the genourous man that he is got me an OEM flywheel and Discount Clutchmasters kit. It's not the ACT or anything but hey, im not going to complain. So early tommorow im going to head up to the shop and put everything back together. To tell the truth im just about scared to death as this is my first real clutch install. I've read and researched and I think that i've got a pretty good grip on the process, but I still have doubts on my own abilities I suppose.(not good since im headed to wyotech in a few months for an automotive tech degree LOL)

Anyway I just wanted to see if anyone that has done the procedure before could give me a couple last minute helpful tips or tricks that will insure me getting my car back to good running condition.

Also, is thred lock on my flywheel and pressure plate absolutly nessary? I know it would be a good idea, but i can't seem to find any around the garage and living in a little remote Montana town means that would require an hour long drive to pick some up. With my transaxle being out im going to go ahead and replace the gear oil, penzoil 80W-90 GL5 will be okay right?

The fuel filter is also being replaced, are there any real secrets to that? Is it a pressurized system or anything? Sorry about the long post and all the questions, must be all the nerves building up LOL.

thanks alot you guys.
 
you should search, that info has been posted over a thousand times. a good manual has all the specs you will need. mostly info on pedal adjustment and flywheel step height.

check the step even though it is new.

unless you are making more vibration or horsepower than stock, thread locking is not necessary, but torque everything to spec.
 
Threadlock that is an hour drive away is a tough decision. Personally I would go, but I have learned time and again that shortcuts don't work well on our cars and never rush to finish a job(,ie. snapped flywheel stud and extractor in stud.)

I would search and try to find what works for people on transmission fluid. There are as many opinions on fluid as there are which clutch works best.

Don't forget the copper washers(new ones they are cheap) for the fuel filter and triple check for leaks. Gas is inherently flammable. It should only be pressurized when running the engine or shortly after turning the engine off. The FPR should bleed the pressure back down to zero over a few minutes. The line nuts that hold it on are always a bear to break loose good luck.

Bleed your clutch well. Don't forget to adjust the master cylinder also. Don't hang the weight of the transmission on disc splines as much as possible. There is a chance that it can bend it.

Most of all have fun. My first clutch was the worst nightmare in the world but many beers and cursewords resulted in a triumph.
 
What about cleaning the pressure plate and flywheel surfaces? Are acetone or paint thinner ok to use?
 
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