The best Pump Gas "Turbo" set up? [Merged 5-7]

[kpt4321]

The EvoIII 16g is a much more powerful turbo than the T-28, no question. It probably won't spool much slower either, if at all.

For those of you who are saying "I have XX turbo and my car pulls to redline," that really doesn't help. I have a 14b and a stock SMIC, and my car pulls hard to redline. Without a dyno slip to see what kind of powerband you have, that information is useless.

 

[truwarrior]

Isn't the 50 trim only oil cooled? I rather not deal with a turbo timer and like the reliablity of the water cooled turbos. It also might be a little more then I need, don't wanna be breaking drivetrain parts.

 

[truwarrior]

Also I have a injen hard intake pipe, will that J pipe fit if I decide to go with a evo16g?

 

[Turbo Monk3y]

Ok everyone knows a 50 trim is pump gas king but that requires a new manifold, o2 housing, and external wastegate setup. So Besides the 50 trim what are some other pump gas kings that are MITSU bolt ons.... i know the FP green is something special but are there any more worth taking Note on?

 

[DSMSpyder99]

ehh the reason most people are getting T3/T4 is because companies like AGP and PTE have T3/T4 that bolt on to stock mainfold and o2 housing. Here is my AGP 50 Trim it cost me $950 for an internally wastegated w/ 38mm flapper and 90* bend. All this and it is still cheaper than just a non-internal wastegated TD06H 20G. No porting required the housing is meant for the big wheels unlike porting the hell out a 7cm2 mitsu housing to fit the 20G and tdo6 wheels. Also the 360 thrust bearing last much longer than Mitsu center cartidge.

 

[eclipse90gsxt]

I got a SBR GT-12.

 

[STECARS]

Ok everyone knows a 50 trim is pump gas king but that requires a new manifold, o2 housing, and external wastegate setup. So Besides the 50 trim what are some other pump gas kings that are MITSU bolt ons.... i know the FP green is something special but are there any more worth taking Note on?

Pte and agp have bolton 50's.

 

[truwarrior]

will it bolt onto my stock rubber intercooler pipe with that 90 degree bend?

 

[dls93tsi]

What about a FP 3052? That will bolt up to the manifold, but you need a new 02 and stuff...

 

[STECARS]

will it bolt onto my stock rubber intercooler pipe with that 90 degree bend?

witht the bend yes.

 

[Clipse]

will it bolt onto my stock rubber intercooler pipe with that 90 degree bend?

You will need an aftermarket intercooler...

I'd say an AGP RS49 is the way to go if you want to use either a stock or evoIII o2 housing, however if you don't mind paying a little extra and getting a tubular o2 housing and external gate you could do a FP3052.

 

[STECARS]

You will need an aftermarket intercooler...

.

please explain

 

[kpt4321]

please explain

Anything with a 50 trim compressor wheel is designed to make 400 horsepower or more. A stock SMIC cannot support that level of airflow.

 

[DSMSpyder99]

Anything with a 50 trim compressor wheel is designed to make 400 horsepower or more. A stock SMIC cannot support that level of airflow.

u are correct but u dont need it right away. Just keep it on low boost and try not to race or go WOT too much

 

[swing lo]

u are correct but u dont need it right away. Just keep it on low boost and try not to race or go WOT too much

Riiiiiigggghhhtttttt

 

[Airpoppoff]

FP Green

 

[92awddsm]

I would save my $ and purchase the needed supporting mods (fmic, injectors,etc) before a big turbo but yes, you can get a bolt on 50 trim.

 

[hellotbone]

I just got a precision turbo's t3/t4 which did bolt right on I can sorta supply a list of what is needed.

When you install the turbo it is going to hit on 2 things the water pipe for the block and a banjo bolt in the block. I had to take the turbo and put it in our mill at work and mill about 1/8" off the compressor where one of the bolts holds it to the cartridge. You can get around this by purchasing an exhaust manifold spacer but I just milled the turbo. You will also need a slim fan it just doesn't fit I ended up making it fit and had to get the fan anyways cuz it was messing up my WG. So get the fan. SS oil feed line an line 1/8 npt fitting on the turbo and 3/8 reduced to your an fitting on the filter housing. You will need to get an oil return flange or make one like I did. You will also need to take your stock oil return line and cut it above the flex part on the engine and run a hose from the engine to the turbo. Your intake will need to be 3" at the turbo so you may need to get some plumbing accessories Your 02 housing will bolt right up and requires no modding of any kind everything else should go right on. You also need to make a new IC pipe for the SMIC Im still running mine at 15psi of boost with no probs yet but going to FMIC in the next 2 weeks. You need a really tight 90* off the turbo and a piece exhaust to extend to the SMIC inlet and a piece of hose to connect them as well.

I think that's it if you have any questions the answers are still fresh in my mind. :laugh:

 

[Mirage2LTurbo]

u are correct but u dont need it right away. Just keep it on low boost and try not to race or go WOT too much

Most retarded comment I've read yet today.

 

[Liquid Illusion]

I think that's it if you have any questions the answers are still fresh in my mind. :laugh:

All this had been answered 5000 times before. :laugh:

 

[Keaka26]

Ok everyone knows a 50 trim is pump gas king but that requires a new manifold, o2 housing, and external wastegate setup. So Besides the 50 trim what are some other pump gas kings that are MITSU bolt ons.... i know the FP green is something special but are there any more worth taking Note on?

Dont need new manifold, o2, or external wastegate with the pte50 trim at all. Bolts right in. But you'll need to ditch the stock intercooler, injectors, and fuel pump as a pre-requisite to running this turbo. But you most likely knew that part already.

 

[NOSLO2PT0]

Everyone needs to stop calling that "bolt-on" PTE turbo a T3/T4. It is NOT a T3/T4. It is simply a Garrett CHRA with a cast turbine housing that bolts up to our stock manifold. I don't know if anyone has ever been able to identify/verify the fact there are 2 diff. A/R's available in the bolt on housing.

The T3/T4 PTE turbos use an actual T3 housing, and those do NOT bolt onto our manifolds.


Just wanted to clarify that for all.

 

[Keaka26]

Everyone needs to stop calling that "bolt-on" PTE turbo a T3/T4. It is NOT a T3/T4. It is simply a Garrett CHRA with a cast turbine housing that bolts up to our stock manifold. I don't know if anyone has ever been able to identify/verify the fact there are 2 diff. A/R's available in the bolt on housing.

The T3/T4 PTE turbos use an actual T3 housing, and those do NOT bolt onto our manifolds.


Just wanted to clarify that for all.

T3/t4 is a term that Honduh boys love to use to categorize any turbo with a big compressor housing and a smaller exhaust housing. Thats just what I've observed, and yeah, its kind of annoying since a "t3/t4" could be HUNDREDS of turbos. Different covers, wheels, ARs etc..

Anywho, as for the PTE T3/T4 A/Rs, Ive never heard of them having more than one turbine housing. Its supposed to flow much better than the 7cm2 housing that they have on the FP green (and many other turbos). A 7cm2 housing IIRC is supposed to be roughly equal to a .48 a/r.

 

[hellotbone]

Vendor : Precision
Product Type : Mitsubishi T3/T4
Product Name : SCM50



Precision's line of Mitsubishi T3/T4 Performance turbos come standard with Precision's TA31 style exhaust housings with a Mitsu flange in A/R's of .48 or .63. SCM50 comes with the T31 wheel with a 2.559" inducer and 2.229" exducer (76 trim) or 2.559" inducer and 2.121" exducer (69 trim).
Each turbo comes with a 360-degree race bearing center section and a T04E compressor cover with a 3-inch inlet and 2-inch outlet.
SCM50 has a 54mm compressor wheel that has a 2.123" inducer and 3.000" exducer (50 trim).
Internal wastegate extra charge.
Supports up to 450-hp at the flywheel with proper tuning


Thats the turbo Im running.

 

[SHicksRUS]

I wanted to add to this thread. Really there's no reason not to buy supporting mods first. You'll be about 5000 times happier with the way your car runs. I ran my 16G powered car with proper supporting mods to a 12.45 on pump gas. The car was reliable and an absolute blast to drive, plus it pulled on lots of cars with bigger turbos and inadequate supporting set ups. Once you've got all the supporting mods bolting a bigger turbo on is easy to do and far more rewarding. This season I'll be stepping up to a 2.4 and an FP3052 and hoping to really go fast on pump. If you're going to get a big turbo go with something from FP, they do better turbo work and have better support than anyone else in the business. There's a reason that all the fastest guys run turbos that are from FP(Curt Brown) or are built by FP (John Shepherd). Granted their stuff costs a little bit more but it's also that much better. At any rate from my experience you'd be much better off spending the money on supporting mods to begin with and a huge turbo later.