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Test drive GST, got a question on why it's slow....

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awild

20+ Year Contributor
401
0
Jul 28, 2003
Grand Rapids, Michigan
Ok I'm in the process of possibly getting a 2g gst spyder. Has 104k, recent rebuild and new long block, and new stock turbo. Now, I've owned 2 awd's and 1 gst so I know what these should feel like but it feels slow. When you press the peddle in it feels like it's going about 50% throttle and wot isn't an option. What might this be? OEM boost gauge was all the way up, turbo was spooling fine by ear. Car ran just fine, just seemed freakin slow, felt like 4psi or something. Doesn't help that my past two cars were a 450hp Stealth and a 16g'd bpu GST...but still feels like there's no damn boost.

Boost leak?
Low boost on new turbo install?
Vacuum?
Bad Cat (had one on my Jeep and it did kinda the same thing but wouldn't let me get above 40mph on that)

Should I be concerned highly or likely an easy fix?
 
So you can't go WOT? And if so, what happens when you do go WOT?

My guess would be perception, boost leak and/or very low boost; line directly to the wastegate instead of the stock BCS setup.
 
So you can't go WOT? And if so, what does it do when you do go WOT?

Well I can physically smash the pedal to the metal. But considering it's a turbo, the rpms just didn't go up as fast as I would expect. Again, very experienced with what a turbo feels like. Had MINIMAL to ZERO 'put you back in your seat' effect. I should have revved it parked to see if pushing the pedal all the way would wind the RPMS faster. Felt a little like I was towing something at wot.
 
Do a compression test, see how the WGA is hooked up, check timing(ignition, valve) etc.

It could simply be perception or a mechanical/boost problem, neither is for sure. I'd look into it some more; mostly the mechanical part.

A stock 2g(and 1g) will feel a little lacking to begin with if you're "numb" to speed from other projects :p
 
Do a compression test, see how the WGA is hooked up, check timing(ignition, valve) etc.

It could simply be perception or a mechanical/boost problem, neither is for sure. I'd look into it some more.

Might pick this up for the $4500 and start looking into the issue. Doubtful my perception, really feels like less than stock boost so the wga might be the issue. Crossed lines or something but not sure how that works without a mbc?
 
sounds like you might have a cable problem. see it the throttle cable is adjusted properly, and if the car has cruise control;inspect that. sometimes the two nuts holding the cable bracket back out, causing similar symptoms.

also does the car BOG under acceleration?
 
sounds like you might have a cable problem. see it the throttle cable is adjusted properly, and if the car has cruise control;inspect that. sometimes the two nuts holding the cable bracket back out, causing similar symptoms.

also does the car BOG acceleration?

No it doesnt bog down or hesitate at all. Honestly, the cable might be the issue. That best explains why it would only feel like it was 50% throttle. I might scrap the idea of this car tho...top needs the links which I'm finding out aren't easy to find. It is cheap as hell but I can find easier projects at this time...guess we'll wait and see.
 
yea, i guess, that was a good deal though...LOL, there are other fish in the sea.

Yeah I'm kind of a "car flipper." So as much as I see this as a good deal, it does need the top, acceleration, and front end painted fixed. I think the major problem is my turbonitis. I'm without a turbo car for 5 days now and I'm already freakin out.
 
I had the same problem with a customers car,
It wasn't as bad as that car, but the adjustment on the cruise control was loose, and I would say about 80% throttle. And the car was a complete dog, being all stock, heavy 2g spyder didn't help either.
 
my car did the same thing. unplug the MAF if the car runs after it is disconnected then it is bad if the car cuts off its still good. i would also check the TPS, it may need to be readjusted or just replaced. let me know how it all works out tho, Good Luck
 
unplug the MAF if the car runs after it is disconnected then it is bad if the car cuts off its still good.

WTF So, the car will run with a bad mas disconnected but wont if a good mas is disconnected? Excuse me if Im wrong but once the mas is disconnected, its condition shouldnt have anything to do with the way the car runs because it is disconnected and no longer providing any feedback to the ecu. And if it was bad, it would be the cause of a cel.

If it were me, I would boost leak test, replace plugs, wires, and fuel filter, and check the cam timing and make sure it is properly aligned.
 
Check the to make sure the throttle body is opening up all the way. Boost leaks, cam angle sensor properly set, wastegate hookup. Then start diving into sensors like the MAF, tps, cam angle sensor works, and also check the o2 sensor. Any of the above can cause a car to run slow as crap. If all else fails line it up against another comparable gst and see how it does it may just be perception. One of the downsides to owning fast cars :D
 
WTF So, the car will run with a bad mas disconnected but wont if a good mas is disconnected? Excuse me if Im wrong but once the mas is disconnected, its condition shouldnt have anything to do with the way the car runs because it is disconnected and no longer providing any feedback to the ecu. And if it was bad, it would be the cause of a cel.

If it were me, I would boost leak test, replace plugs, wires, and fuel filter, and check the cam timing and make sure it is properly aligned.
my MAF was bad when I unplugged it the car still idled. I bought a new one fixed the problem and now when you unplug it the car dies, should happen with yours too. It doesn't throw a MAF CEL tho atleast mine didn't and neither did my old SR20 in my 240.
 
We've done all we can with this guess-fest.
If you get it, let us know how it turned out.

Best of luck with your flippers. You're the backbone of the community.
 
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