Temporary Intake fix?

[Eff3ct]

So after picking up a new metal intake that I'm not even srue where it's from, a 1g BoV, and misc parts from a parted out Eclipse, it jammed my filter way the hell to the side and seemed like it would be suffocating for air.

Until I can get a FMIC and I'm really redo the intake, will this little makeshift thing you think give the intake enough air?

Also, I'm working on getting the front painted to match the body, so no comments on that

It goes from the foglight hole:

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Around some stuff and ends up here, just behind the filter:

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Here's the filter in all its crammed glory:

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Is that going to even help? Do I need to put a screen you think over the hole so rocks/ etc don't fly up it?


Also, is it possible for a BoV (the 1g you can see there) to not release correctly? I had an old Porsche on there before, and that one I could reach in and EASILY push it up, and the 1g I can't move no matter what. It doesn't release as early as the old Porsche one, so I don't know if maybe that's GOOD, and the Porsche one was leaking and causing me power, but I'm afraid to really open this one up for fear of blowing back into the turbo or something.

Also today, after going about 3/4 throttle (As I said I'm scared to fully test this thing out atm) I noticed my vacuum got pegged past -30 on the boost gauge.

EDIT: Something else I have noticed since all this swap, I dont RECALL it happening before, is (It's an Automatic, for clarification, ftl), is say I get on the gas, and let off the throttle when the RPM's are around, say 5300.
It's like it will drop to 4500 or so (going by sound, I always forget to watch gauge), then suddenly rev back up for I'd say 4 or 500 RPM, then drop back down.
Any idea's on that?

Also, on the topic of boost gauges, after moving it, it sits @ -10 PSI when the car is off. It resumes -22-23 typically after starting, when it goes into boost, am I needing to add +10? Or is it most likely correct when running?
I don't know the model, it's some Autometer. I read I can send it back to them and they might send me a new one, but if the -10 when iff is nothing huge, idc.
t2007.jpg picture by drinkingjester - Photobucket
(It's no longer in that god awful place)

Oooh, another question since I'm here.
I'm putting a new rear sway bar on, how much should this worry me? The other side looked ok, but the driver side was this:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/drinkingjester/006-3.jpg
Other side had slight rust, but not that bad.
And, uh, what torque should those nuts be set at when I put the new bar on? Or just as tight as one can get them?

Sorry for all the random questions, it was only supposed to be one, but I don't know anyone off the forums to ask this stuff to.

I want the car to be running (good!) for the PNW Deception Cruise coming up.

 

[Eff3ct]

I looked over to my left and remembered I wanted to ask this, too:

I got these headlights off CL when I scored a ViS CF hood (got them ALL for $150! from some guy who blew his engine).
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/drinkingjester/010-2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/drinkingjester/011-2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/drinkingjester/012-1.jpg

These are the CORRECT way to do HiD, right? Or is it modding the other lenses? I want HiD but I don't want to do it the blinding way. So is all I need with these bulbs and a ballast? Tips on where to order those?

 

[->PrOjEcTGS<-]

Plug your MAF in.

 

[Eff3ct]

Plug your MAF in.

Well yeah, I was kinda "mid job" when I took the picture.

 

[97gstnick]

1. your intake is fine. but what is that rubber coupler thing under it getting smashed?

2. when you build boost and let go of the gas real fast do you hear the blow of valve? it should be a psssht sound. if it makes a weird woooom woooom wooooom, or a fluttering type sound then its not opening and your getting a rush of air going back to the turbo and this could damage it.

3. your boost gauge is broken. personally i have seen many autometers do that exact thing. it's one of the reasons i dont like them. you need a new boost gauge no matter who you go with.

4. sounds like your rpm drop and rev is just the transmission downshifting. if that is whats happening, that's normal

5. the thing about rust is that it is either rusted which is just surface or its corroded. take a wire brush to that and clean it off real good. if there isn't any deep pitting or flaking, then repaint it and put it on.

 

[Eff3ct]

1. your intake is fine. but what is that rubber coupler thing under it getting smashed?
It's the end of the hose I have running from the foglight hole to bring some colder air to the filter til I can get a FMIC and new intake situation made.

2. when you build boost and let go of the gas real fast do you hear the blow of valve? it should be a psssht sound. if it makes a weird woooom woooom wooooom, or a fluttering type sound then its not opening and your getting a rush of air going back to the turbo and this could damage it.
It's weird, it's nowhere near as loud as the old Porsche one, but occasionally I do, and sometimes I hear a fluttering sound and a feel a weird feeling in the car. Maybe I'll go back to the Porsche one for the time being if I can make the old hose size work with the new intake, just to be safe.

3. your boost gauge is broken. personally i have seen many autometers do that exact thing. it's one of the reasons i dont like them. you need a new boost gauge no matter who you go with.
Who should I get instead? This is the one that came with the car, but alot of stuff seemed half-assed. But I got it dirt cheap so .

4. sounds like your rpm drop and rev is just the transmission downshifting. if that is whats happening, that's normal
It drops way down after the initial rush up a couple hundred RPM. But this is my first turbo car and only second car, so maybe it's normal. I'm used to my 1985 Toyota Cressida so .