Tein Basics Coilovers vs. Megan Racing Coilovers

[SRK420a]

Ok I am about to purchase some coilovers but I need some honest opinions as far as performance and overall adjustability.

1.Tein Basics

2. Megan Racing

 

[eligst21]

thanks Double. Those seem like they're nice. But i wonder what they're like on a fwd? I saw your car is awd and you have an advantage. ha. I was wondering what the people that have fwd thought about good suspension for the track and street.

 

[daren_p]

i cant remember exactly but it was in specks but they couldn't adjust it any more it was adjusted all the way out i dont have the paper work with me to say exactly what it was

i know i need new spring the back of my car sets about 3/4 of a inch lower than the front.

If your still on factory suspension/ride height, you may have other issues. Sounds like your saying the alignment was in spec but one of the adjustments was maxed? If this is the case, something may be up as the stock suspension should allow plenty of adjustment with the stock adjustments (for toe).

I look over all your suspension components & verify your bushings are all in good shape. If you have some bad bushings, your alignment may appear fine on the rack but once you drive the car again, things shift around, throwing the alignment off.

thanks Double. Those seem like they're nice. But i wonder what they're like on a fwd? I saw your car is awd and you have an advantage. ha. I was wondering what the people that have fwd thought about good suspension for the track and street.

As mentioned above, I'd still recommend the Koni/GC setup. There are still some issues with this setup but for around the $1K mark, this is the route I'd go. At least the Koni's can be rebuilt in the US & re-valved if needed (if you get serious into tracking the car & want higher then typical street spring rates). And your able to select what spring rate you want when you purchase the GC coilovers (which you can't do with a bunch of the other options).

 

[eligst21]

As mentioned above, I'd still recommend the Koni/GC setup. There are still some issues with this setup but for around the $1K mark, this is the route I'd go. At least the Koni's can be rebuilt in the US & re-valved if needed (if you get serious into tracking the car & want higher then typical street spring rates). And your able to select what spring rate you want when you purchase the GC coilovers (which you can't do with a bunch of the other options).

Like i said, just typical dd and occasional track use. I will look into this setup. But what spring rate should i look at?

 

[morelock]

If your still on factory suspension/ride height, you may have other issues. Sounds like your saying the alignment was in spec but one of the adjustments was maxed? If this is the case, something may be up as the stock suspension should allow plenty of adjustment with the stock adjustments (for toe).

I look over all your suspension components & verify your bushings are all in good shape. If you have some bad bushings, your alignment may appear fine on the rack but once you drive the car again, things shift around, throwing the alignment off.

both of the back adjustments for tow are maxed out yes.would the springs just being completely worn out cause this? im just trying to get this figured out 250 a tire sucks to get half the miles out of them that i should or maybe not even half.

thanks ill look at it but i am about to order the es kit for it and and have it all installed hopefully that will help out some.

 

[daren_p]

both of the back adjustments for tow are maxed out yes.would the springs just being completely worn out cause this? im just trying to get this figured out 250 a tire sucks to get half the miles out of them that i should or maybe not even half.

thanks ill look at it but i am about to order the es kit for it and and have it all installed hopefully that will help out some.

Seems strange that your stock springs could be sagging more then an aftermarket lowering spring as even with a 1.5-2" drop, you usually have enough toe adjustment. Bushings or maybe a bent suspension arm could be a cause?

Just a word on the ES bushings, their great (thats what I have) but the upper bushing for the rear knuckle don't seem to be properly designed. Mine wore out (chrushed) after about 6 months & when I asked about it, seems I wasn't the only one who had that issue. The prothane have a better designed bushing with a larger shoulder. Their kits are abit more but have more bushings as well. The urthane is also abit firmer vs ES as well. You can order just the Prothane knuckle top bushings by themselves from a vendor on Ebay (what I did to replace the defective ES ones). So if you stick to the ES kit, I'd get the pair of Prothanes for the rear knuckle top bushings, just to be on the safe side. If those bushings crush, they will throw out the alignment again.

 

[daren_p]

Like i said, just typical dd and occasional track use. I will look into this setup. But what spring rate should i look at?

Not exactly sure how a fwd compares to awd so you might need to ask some fwd guys but I'm running 500in/lbs front & 350in/lbs rear. This is not a bad street setup but the rear is abit firmer vs the front (even though lighter spring the amount of weigth the rear springs support is less vs the front so the actual ratio is stiffer in the rear). With stock awd sway bars with added urthane sway bar bushings, my car slightly oversteers when pushed too hard through corners or when getting on the gas to quickly (stock setup would be opposite, understeers or plow through the corber, especially with a fwd). While the 350 in the rear is fairly firm it does handle great & prevents most of the sag under acceleration, which prevents weight transfer. While having minimal weight transfer works great for awd cars, its even better (ideal) for fwds as weight transfer means loss of traction in your front, driving wheels.

 

[morelock]

Seems strange that your stock springs could be sagging more then an aftermarket lowering spring as even with a 1.5-2" drop, you usually have enough toe adjustment. Bushings or maybe a bent suspension arm could be a cause?

Just a work on the ES bushings, their great (thats what I have) but the upper bushing for the rear knuckle don't seem to be properly designed. My wore out (chrushed) after about 6 months & when I asked about it, seems I wasn't the only one who had that issue. The prothane have a better designed bushing with a larger shoulder. Their kits are abit more but have more bushings as well. The urthane is also abit firmer vs ES as well. You can order just the Prothane knuckle top bushings by themselves from a vendor on Ebay (what I did to replace the defective ES ones). So if you stick to the ES kit, I'd get the pair of Prothanes for the rear knuckle top bushings, just to be on the safe side. If those bushings crush, they will throw out the alignment again.
is the urethane worth the extra money of the es kit or not that big of a difference if i do get the es kit i will defiantly get the pro thane knuckle to bushings mine shot any ways. thanks for the advice.

 

[daren_p]

is the urethane worth the extra money of the es kit or not that big of a difference if i do get the es kit i will defiantly get the pro thane knuckle to bushings mine shot any ways. thanks for the advice.

Do you mean, is the Prothane kit worth the extra over the ES kit?

If so, guess you have to make that call. Alot of guys say go ES if its an everyday driver but go Prothane if your more serious about tracking the car. Thats because, as mentioned the ES is abit softer & more "daily friendly" vs the Prothanes. Honestly, I doubt you would notice a huge difference either way. The prothanes do have a few extra bushings as well. Believe in the rear you get two additional bushings per side vs the ES kit. Believe its both inner lower control arm bushings you get that ES doesn't include. Since I wanted ES when I did mine, I just bought a new set of the lower arms that adjust toe & you can buy the OEM inner bushings seperate for the other rear lower control arm. This way I'd still have new bushings all around.

If I was doing it again, I'd probably just go Prothanes & be done with it. I like the larger shoulder they use on all their bushings & abit firmer doesn't bother me. Their also sabit easier to install with their split bushing design (but the ES do press in fairly easily with a vise or arbor press).

The Prothane kit also comes with another bushing for the front straight lower control arm that installed where the front shock mounts to the arm. DO NOT install this bushing as it can damage your front shocks.