2G Talon crank no start only when MAF plugged in?

[7ahmir]

To give some background about two days before this issue occurred I had been going in and removing rust spots below my battery mount and had just finished painting over with some rust prevention paint. Once I was done I placed the battery back in to see if it’ll run, but unfortunately… I had dropped the battery ever so slightly and a corner landed on some wires that run around the engine..

When I had went to plug in my battery and crank over the car for the first time, it decided to turn over as if it were going to start, but immediately died after. At first glance in my head I’m saying, ”alright I’ve definitely F’d up a wire from that.” But while trying to inspect what could be wrong, I wanted to try starting it with the MAF sensor unplugged (I had just replaced it the same day) and lo and behold, it turned over . I’m fairly new the the 4g63 platform as I’m coming from a 420a Eclipse, but I’ve gone through a few of the forums and done some research on here and dsmtalk, but I haven’t found an answer I find sensible (maybe that’s the problem). Fuel system is priming, spark plugs were just replaced and gapped, new MAF sensor, cleaned my IAC, tried a jump start, and I’m currently about to pull my injectors and check them.

My big question is, are there majors things I’ve overlooked? I plan on checking for boost leaks, but the car ran and drove fine before I started doing rust repairs… I’m worried it’s electrical, but I’m willing to take on the job. Before this I was tracing an idle surge problem, so I had cleaned out the IAC and replaced the MAF sensor, but now this… welcome to DSM life ig . Also please skip the ridicule I might be stupid but I'm willing to learn!

I should add… it turns over when MAF is unplugged but obviously runs rough.

 

[CanadianTalonTC]

I just gotta order some new gaskets and that valve cover is coming off! I’ve been itching to open this thing up also definitely needa rout the BOV though, hell what if that aided to my original issue!

The 50psi was from them running 20 pounds of boost I believe. Me personally, i don’t need 20psi of boost to have fun in this car.

To save some cash I’ve been reading up on ecmlink’s page for the past 2 day nonstop, but if the time comes and I feel I can’t do it myself, I know some tuners in aurora Colorado with some experience.

I’m currently looking to find the previous owner that built the car. I found one of his friends, so I’m on a good start. Hopefully he’s got some old files I could reference for tuning

Doesn't matter how much boost unless they are trying to overrun injectors to make up for their duty cycle at that airflow. Cranking your initial pressures higher is more difficult cause it raises 1psi for every psi of boost, so starting at 50 you are trying to get to some pretty high numbers once you get up there.

Psh, 20+ or bust . You'll have a very spirited driver around that level with a 16g.

If you find a datalog from it, it will have everything saved in it. Just right click and view the accesses from the datalog.

Don't forget to update firmware and such on your ECU when you receive your cable to have the latest features and compatibility.

 

[steve]

Make sure that the fuel pressure regulator is connected to Manifold reference so it can track it 1:1. Under vacuum it should drop the fuel pressure and under boost raise it. If you had a constant 50psi it would seem like it wasn't working.