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t28 (im i correct or wrong)

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SinEclipse

15+ Year Contributor
766
2
Jul 31, 2004
San Diego, California
okay i did a search on t28 turbo and been reading up on it. i just really want to make sure that i am correct. a t28 will directly bolt on from the stock t25 and that the t28 does not need any other mods to run it, or does the t28 need to run with a 190 fuel pump along with it and have the boost set at 15.

sorry for the noob question.
 
I have an FP BIG28 with less than 500 miles. I put it on the car not knowing if it would be enough for me and its not. I am flowing 33LB/MIN which is the same as a BIG16G but I want more than that.

So if you are an aggressive driver I recommend getting something bigger right from the start. If you dont have the cash or the know how to go bigger and you are set on the Big28 then you should entertain purchasing this 28 from me.

I will give you a great deal w/money back guarantee. This thing is like new with next to no miles and its ported by FP ($95) and has the 17psi actuator ($99). I would be looking for $720 shipped for the ported turbo and actuator. (That is $200 off the sale price from FP!)

I am gonna get an FP GREEN or 20G. I also have nearly new 550cc injectors that I am willing to make a sweet deal on as well if you feel you need them.

Here is my email: [email protected]

I have receipts for all parts and will gladly answer any of your detailed questions if you email them to me.
 
well right now i am still unsure if i do need to get this turbo since my dad is planning to get me another car and selling this car, if that happens i dont want to be stuck with a turbo that i dont need. also if i do plan on keepin the car i plan on just having a it a daily driver, so i will just be boosting 15 or lower, so no need for 190 walbro fuel pump or 550cc injectors.
 
gsxtacy said:
I saw your car in your userID, seeings that your FWD, I recommend skipping the TDO5 series and T25/28 series turbos and going straight for a T3/T4. You won't regret it.


gsxtacy

I'd agree skipping the TDO5 but if you can't afford the T3/T4 I'd go with the Big 16g, I'm told that it is a bolt-on turbo exept usually you have to buy a kit for it like for oil lines, etc...
 
A T28 is a little too quick spooling for a FWD. You may want to consider a B16G or variant of, T3/T4, or a Dual Stage Boost Controller (DSMBC)/Electronic Boost Controller (EBC).
 
Just from reading the questions, I'm assuming you're fairly new to installations and modifying these cars. I think you will be happy with a T28. There are no modifications neccessary to install this. So it would be a good way for you to get in there and learn, without having to do some major modifying to things. Plus if you're still new to this, you're should start out walking rather then running (aka throwin in some larger turbo that will require some modification to work).

So basically I say get the T28. It's an improvement over what you have. The new power will get you excited. You'll learn without having to try and and do an install that requires new custom lines. And once you max out that turbo, you'll have more hands on experience and you'll be more confident putting in a turbo that requires you to tweak a couple things. Good luck with whatever you do tho!!
 
me612 thanks for your help and everyone else...yea this will be my first turbo install and i am fairly new with this and still on the learning process that is why i am going with the t28. also this is my first dsm i have drove and is still talking with my dad on keeping this car.

thanks for all the response and help
 
1993eclipseGS said:
In that case , Just replace your turbo if it's bad, With another t-25. There's no sence in buying an aftermarket turbo and not getting any supporting mods for it.

or put a 14b on there
 
The best advice you will get is to start small and learn from there. Just look at how many people on here are running reallt shitty times on large turbos and very expensive setups. These people have more money than since and tend to think that bigger is better. There is a local guy in Tampa who always says if you're not going at least mid 12's on a 16g going to a bigger turbo won't get you the gains you'd want.
 
I have the BT28 and for what you pay and what you get its a great setup, expically for the quick upgrade from the T25. It is a little turbo so you will lose boost and high RPMs and the quick spool will smoke the FWD tires. I use a set of 23x8.5 M&H slicks at the track, to run descent times. with a set of street tires my best was 13.7, worse was 14.4 (2.95 60' time) but I trapped at 107. With the slicks I got my best of 12.83@ 110. bear in mind this is at 4200 ft in elevation on stock suspension and 100% stock engine.

The good thing about this turbo is that it works with a mild to stock setup and allows you to build around it for the bigger turbo. I have not been disappointed by it one bit. Espically after walking a few vettes, they ask to see how big your turbo is, when they see it they laugh, but then realise you beat then with that. I recommend the 17PSI acuator from FP. It allowed me to keep boost up during upper RPMs a bit.
 
spoolup did you had any fuel upgrade when you put your bt28 on or was the fuel stock? also how much were you boosting?
 
at first I had just a rewire. But kept the boost turn all the way down, then added a pump and was able to run 15 PSI, added the injectors (580s) ran 17 PSI I also added the 17PSI actuator at this time, now with the FMIC I currently run 1.4 KG/cm2 (just shy of 20 PSI) all on 91 pump pee that they serve us in Utah, using at first pocketlogger/ SAFC and keeping a eye on the EGTs, I would see no timing being pulled away. When I got the FMIC I got the tranlator and used that to about 0 the SAFC. Then got lucky and scored on a 95 Eprom ECU and then got DSMlink the last race of this season. before this my best was 12.95. the only difference between the 12.95 and 12.83 was DSMlink. I seen LESS timing advace since I could actually controll it VIA DMSlink as compared to adjusting just the airflow which inadvertaly increases the timing like the SAFC did before. So somesort of fuel upgrades do need to be added to get the benifit of this turbo.

However there is a white 99 GST from Oregen that stoped out in SLC quite a bit this last summer, Cool kid, nice car, the most amazing part was the set up. Everything was near 100% stock, stock airbox, exhaust, IC pipe, he had a greddy BOV and adapter piece that he painted black (yes he even painted the BOV) to make it look stock, he also had upgraded the FPBT28 and controlled it with the factor wastegate solenoid. for logging he used the logger, but he had NO fuel upgrades nor fuel control and he was quite fast. My friend in his 14Bed 1G was suprised that this GST pulled away from him even though he had basic upgrades. So it can be done, but to be safe I would add the fuel components to the mix in the near future.

Now that I have all supporting mods minus cams for the bigger turbo. I am currently saving for a AGP full garret 60-1. Since as someone mentioned above, you will want to go bigger, its like a drug. but for a building stone, this turbo has worked for me. Hope this helps a bit
 
Paying 700 bones for a Big28 is a waste of money. This coming from a guy who owns one. Sure the F[]CKING car will rip but only if you have supporting mods.

If you dont plan on upgrading injectors and pipes then just get a used 14B for $100. Most 14B's can deliver 29#/min. The most I got out of my T25 was 26#.

S16G=Big28=B16G - They all flow about 34#LB give or take 1# on stock 2G.

If you are gonna drop $500 or more dollars AT A MINIMUM get an EVO16G. They flow 43# and still spool well before 4k. Even though my car has instant spool even at 3k, I regret getting the Forced Performance Big28 because it runs out of breath above 5k and when racing or passing that is where you will be 90% of the time.

A buddy of mine just got a new (unported) EVO16G for $499 shipped. Even if you are not creative enough to come up with your own install kit it will still be cheaper to get the EVO16G and install kit than it is to get a new BIG28.

SPOOLUP - You have some of the best Big28 times that I have ever seen. I know FP has an 11 sec claim but I kinda think they are full of shit. How many LBS/MIN are you running?
 
The best time I had seen was Tay (also the previous owner of the same turbo) he ran a 12.7 again 4200 ft elevation (both of us are listed in dsmtimes.org in the FWD section), but when I ran my 12.83 I seen a max of 37 lb.min with DSMlink. I agree with your comment about "without supporting mods..." but the guy in question has the basic bolt ons and has started building off of the stage 1 upgrade path list here, and he has pratically the same setup I had when I first installed my turbo. It was peppy back then. I never played with the bigger cars much back then. but after finishing up the supporting mods I have pulled on most cars I used to dream about, including the viper. Some guy going thru midlife crisis found out what C16 smells like. Infact it was the same night I ran my best time. I was leaving the track to go to a friends house when the guy reved at me going 40-45 down the street, couldnt resist, besides the RPM provided at the downshift was great around 4200 RPM in 2nd. And he coulnt belive it. I just know for a quick bolt on afair that will get someone use to working on there car, this turbo does it. to create a sleeper this turbo can do it. it can do much more than whats asked of it. I would problaly keep it but I am "getting use to it" and want to add some more excitement. I hope the 60-1 delivers. :D
 
Spool....37# is very good however with the GM MAF you know that number is artificially high. That time for your altitude is amazing especially with that short time. I have basically the same mods as you minus the O2 dump....I have tubular but internal.

I trip 34# but cannot hold it at 17PSI. I have yet to log with race gas and more boost. With cams I may be able to trip 36# but that would be on race gas which I don't run everyday.

I would still recommend the EVO16G because it can flow 43# on pump gas without every mod in the book.
 
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