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Switching to air to oil housing set up (90 oil housing and cooler)

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packinkimber45

15+ Year Contributor
378
3
May 26, 2006
Boise, Idaho
Hey guys, I bought the 90 style oil housing and an oil cooler kit from street tuned motorsports. I am planning to switch my water cooled oil housing to the air cooled housing. Can you guys tell me everything I am going to need and do in order to do the swap. I already have the gasket/housing/cooler/lines/an fittings. Is there anything else I am missing? Also since there is a water pipe connected to my old housing, what do I do to that now? If someone could walk me through everything I need to do in order to do this, that would be great. Could not find anything in old threads or tech area. Anything I need to add that I did not have before and anything I need to take out or block off now that I am switching. Thanks in advance.
 
You'll need to block off the nipple on the wapter pipe some how or get a N/T water pipe. and also use teflon tape for sealing the AN fittings, Once again I use indian head from permatex which works amazing and is very clean.
 
you'll need an oil cooler, 90 filter housing, some assorted -AN fittings ( i think mine is -6), a tap to tap the threads for the AN fittings, some assorted nuts and bolts, and a few feet of line, some aluminum strapping from a hardware store to make a hangar for the cooler ( i'm ASSuming you're building a kit instead of paying out teh wazoo for a "kit" )

Then block off the water nipple as stated above, i just got a 90 water pipe and didn't have to block anything off
 
You'll need to block off the nipple on the wapter pipe some how or get a N/T water pipe. and also use teflon tape for sealing the AN fittings, Once again I use indian head from permatex which works amazing and is very clean.

There's two connections on the water pipe that use to go to my old housing, so I am okay blocking off both connections? What can I use to block off those locations and is there any downsides to blocking off those locations vs getting a 90 style oil housing? Thanks.
 
you'll need an oil cooler, 90 filter housing, some assorted -AN fittings ( i think mine is -6), a tap to tap the threads for the AN fittings, some assorted nuts and bolts, and a few feet of line, some aluminum strapping from a hardware store to make a hangar for the cooler ( i'm ASSuming you're building a kit instead of paying out teh wazoo for a "kit" )

Then block off the water nipple as stated above, i just got a 90 water pipe and didn't have to block anything off

I actually bought the oil cooler kit from street tuned motorsports that has everything I need except for the oil housing which I bought through the dealership. The kit wasnt that much. I spend 190 with shipping on it. Thanks.
 
You'll need to block off the nipple on the wapter pipe some how or get a N/T water pipe. and also use teflon tape for sealing the AN fittings, Once again I use indian head from permatex which works amazing and is very clean.

you'll need an oil cooler, 90 filter housing, some assorted -AN fittings ( i think mine is -6), a tap to tap the threads for the AN fittings, some assorted nuts and bolts, and a few feet of line, some aluminum strapping from a hardware store to make a hangar for the cooler ( i'm ASSuming you're building a kit instead of paying out teh wazoo for a "kit" )

Then block off the water nipple as stated above, i just got a 90 water pipe and didn't have to block anything off

You guys are forgetting about the thermostat nipple...

OP: If you are going to go through the hassle of swapping out the water pipe, you might as well get another lower thermostat housing from EITHER the NA OR a 90 Turbo car (depending on what turbo you are running... IF you are running a wet center section turbo then you would opt for a 90 coolant pipe (that has the "J" coolant pipe fitting for your wet turbo) & Thermostat housing.
Otherwise, if you are running a dry center section turbo, then opt for the NA hard pipe & thermostat housing as they do not have ANY coolant provisions for both: turbo OR OEM oil/coolant heat exchanger.
BTW, once you have the turbo & hardlines removed from the car, don't forget to eliminate the coolant hardline that is bolted to the front side of the block that connects to the lower thermostat housing & the oil/coolant heat exchanger
Hope this clears things up for you
 
You guys are forgetting about the thermostat nipple...

OP: If you are going to go through the hassle of swapping out the water pipe, you might as well get another lower thermostat housing from EITHER the NA OR a 90 Turbo car (depending on what turbo you are running... IF you are running a wet center section turbo then you would opt for a 90 coolant pipe (that has the "J" coolant pipe fitting for your wet turbo) & Thermostat housing.
Otherwise, if you are running a dry center section turbo, then opt for the NA hard pipe & thermostat housing as they do not have ANY coolant provisions for both: turbo OR OEM oil/coolant heat exchanger.
BTW, once you have the turbo & hardlines removed from the car, don't forget to eliminate the coolant hardline that is bolted to the front side of the block that connects to the lower thermostat housing & the oil/coolant heat exchanger
Hope this clears things up for you

Sorry, but all that just confused me more... I am running an evo 3 16g if that makes any difference. The nipple off the thermostat housing you speak off is currently hooked up to my turbo. So do I need to get another thermostat housing or can I just keep mine. Do I need to get a new water pipe or can I just block off the two lines that used to be on my old oil housing? Any downsides or ill effects from just blocking off those two nipples on the water pipe vs buying a new water pipe? Thanks.
 
Sorry, but all that just confused me more... I am running an evo 3 16g if that makes any difference. The nipple off the thermostat housing you speak off is currently hooked up to my turbo. So do I need to get another thermostat housing or can I just keep mine. Do I need to get a new water pipe or can I just block off the two lines that used to be on my old oil housing? Any downsides or ill effects from just blocking off those two nipples on the water pipe vs buying a new water pipe? Thanks.

LOOK at your existing thermostat housing... Notice it has TWO coolant nipples on it?? -ONE is for the turbo, THE OTHER is for the existing oil/coolant heat exchanger. -The other one goes to the small hardline (I mentioned earlier) that runs along the front side of the block and then off to the heat exchanger.
If you are going to plug the lines, IMO, it is best that you plug them at the source.
With running an Evo3, I'd just hunt down a 90 TURBO water pipe & lower thermostat housing and not worry about plugging anything as the provisions will simply not even be there in the first place.
 
So I'm pretty sure the bad shop screwed up my water/oil cooler. There is only 3 replacement water/oil coolers left in the entire country. part number being: md167787.

So, I'm borrowing the money to do this, times are tough so I need to know the cheapest way to do this. The replacement part is 460+ shipping plus labor and shop supplies (flush, oil, etc).

So if I go air cooled, what would be the cheapest one just to get the job done, nothing special? If anyone has done this before and can give me a list of supplies and part numbers that would be great. This new thread was started specifically to get help on what parts to get.
 
That was why I didn't respond originally. I have a 6bolt with an air cooled oil cooler. I'm not sure you can install a '90 style oil filter housing on a 7bolt. They came with the external connections for what you wanted. Personally, call the different vendors and ask for help. We have some really good people to call on for this purpose. They will help you. Usually, you need an oil filter housing with the plumbing to go external, a cooler (transmission or oil), and the lines and crush washers. Then you have to figure out where/how to mount it. If you are trying to do this for under $200, good luck. You will need:

1. Oil filter housing with external connections
2. Oil cooler
3. 2 hoses
4. Connections for the hoses {4 male (2 on cooler, 2 on oil filter)and 4 female (2 on each line)}
5. Crush washers
6. Gasket for your oil filter housing
7. Mounting hardware for the cooler

Anyone else want to chime in for anything that I am missing?

d
 
I don't want to rain on your garage, but it's only 4 bolts and 2 wires to swap oil filter housings. The hard part is getting all the right parts, and modifying your coolant system so it won't leak.

Mach V sells the EVO 7-bolt OFH. I got my metric to -8AN fittings for the OFH from OnGreenPerformance many years ago. I bought a used Setrab off of ebay from Hendrick Motorsports, cleaned it out, and replaced the fittings by calling Setrab and waiting for an engineer to ship me their proprietary-to-8AN fittings. I got AN fittings off of Jegs with a few feet of SS braided hose, and the OFH gasket from the dealer. It took 2 months to do it right, and cost me around $400 for all the parts. More two thirds of the cost was the 8 fittings needed to attach the cooler.

Oh, and the bolts are different lengths than the 2g OFH, or the 1g OFH. I hope you've got a bucket of metric spares somewhere because I didn't document what those were. Also, don't forget that you'll have 2 unnecessary coolant lines for the old OFH that you'll have to either plug, block off, or loop. One from the coolant neck, and one from the water pipe. The '90 water pipe isn't a good fit on a 2g. I ended up drilling and 1/4" NPT plugging the coolant neck, and cutting and brazing over where the nipple was on the water pipe.
 
So I'm pretty sure the bad shop screwed up my water/oil cooler. There is only 3 replacement water/oil coolers left in the entire country. part number being: md167787.
Then they'd better hurry up to get one of those and get it installed for you before they're all gone.
So, I'm borrowing the money to do this, times are tough so I need to know the cheapest way to do this. The replacement part is 460+ shipping plus labor and shop supplies (flush, oil, etc).
Too bad for that shop. Some days you eat the bear.....
So if I go air cooled, what would be the cheapest one just to get the job done, nothing special? If anyone has done this before and can give me a list of supplies and part numbers that would be great. This new thread was started specifically to get help on what parts to get.
It isn't your problem.
 
It is my problem I'm borrowing the money and have to repay it so I'd like to keep it inexpensive...like i said I'm waiting for the shop to tell me how much...defiant, I don't know why your merged my thing, the new title says using a 90 style housing...I'M NOT USING A 90'S STYLE HOUSING, probably just connecting the two coolant lines and putting a sandwich plate with connectors to do an external oil cooler....Man I swear sometimes you jump the gun a lil too quickly on my threads...do you hate me or something?
 
Relax. Don't take it so personal. Take a second to get a different point of view.

There are a lot of talented do-it-yourself and professional mechanics in these forums, and lots of searchable information that has already been covered. Most old-school members have low post counts because they can find info without creating a new thread. A moderator might get tired or even irritated if he's regularly maintaining threads that have been previously discussed (it's work for him), especially if those posting them are not actually the one doing the work on the car. I'm sure than mechanics don't appreciate being told how to their jobs based on what their customers read on the internet. Just friendly advice. I doubt that Defiant actually "hates" you. It makes sense to merge it here because despite the different part it's exactly the same process and procedure as upgrading a 91-94 OFH to the '90 style housing.

You probably don't even need the EVO cooler. The cheap fix is putting another used stock sandwich cooler back on there yourself since it's a piece of cake. Buy yourself a 12mm wrench and a service manual. Search the classifieds. The whole job to replace it with the same used part would be about $60. But if you want to spend $400-$500 on a non-power-adding modification, it's your car.
 
Well the car's already at the shop, I trust these guys they are good at any kind of work or fab. They hook me up too. I'd consider them friends more then my mechanics, we talk a lot, they do car shows and stuff on occasion at dealerships. I told him about the 460 dollar oil cooler, he's like wow, this wont cost anything near that so...I trust them and it's also for piece of mind and warranty for parts and labor, after all it's all about reliability first right? I've done all my own work until the past year just been getting lazy i'll do things here and there but I'm sick of changing clutches and stuff like that...Like I said also I'm new to the dsm thing. Nah he does "hate" me, he's been on my ass since the day I signed up LOL, when I post just like the rest of them, It's probably because I bought my car vented and havent recirculated yet, though i AM going to LOL. And I'm sure he doesn't mind having to "work" with the website..he didn't HAVE to be a moderator.
 
re you shitting me? LOL...holding my hand? What is with you people LOL...I keep saying I'm fine, it's out of my hands, it's at the shop and you guys keep coming at me like this LOL...chill people, I said I'd let you all know how it goes. And yes you told me I need this and you need that but you guys used a lot of the word "probably" and "maybe" and "should/shouldn't" those of you that say that do not follow one of the rules...don't post saying it maybe will work or i don't know or i heard... Anyways It's in the shop, they found a 13 row kit with oil filter sandwich plate and braided lines and all that for like 150. Probably replacing the hoses with some red samco hoses. And I'm also looking into a cheap exhaust FOR NOW...not permanent, just something on a budget to make the engine less restrictive with the 15 psi and stuff it has now. That one I'm looking at an n1 or xtune
 
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