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Stuttering.... Help

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brute

15+ Year Contributor
1,551
46
Jun 29, 2005
Rio Rancho, New Mexico
I'll start from the beginning. My car didn't do this up until a couple days ago. It just so happens that I just installed some new things. Therefore, I'm thinking that something I changed has made the problem.

Problem:
Car drives fine, but feels a tad slow. It takes forever for boost to come on. And when it does, the car studders and stumbles all over itself.

Things I installed that may have caused the problem:
-new o2 sensor
-MAF translator
-injector to head o-rings
-Dejon "no pre-turbo MAS" intake

Things I've done since the problem started:
-boost leak test
-check wires/spark plug well boots
-check plugs themselves
-check plug gap (NGK BPR7ES set at .30")
-boost is set at ~11psi
-fuel pressure is at 37 with vacuum detached (about 30.5 attached)

Here's some pictures of the spark plugs. I can't diagnose anything just looking at them, but if you can, let me know. From the left to the right, it's cylinder 4, 3, 2, 1. As if you were looking from the front of the car.

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I've just run out of ideas. Any input is welcome.
 

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are you positive your setting are correct on the maft, what version is it, if not on stock injectors what inj do u have, what are all the knobs and dip switches set to..just a thought
 
the plugs look fine to me, and as bmwisthekey stated check your maft, they say its plug and play but i had to do a little tuning to just get it to run correct. make sure you have the dip switches set to your size maf wether it be a 3" or a 3.5". studdering when boost comes on sounds like your running piss rich but the plugs looks fine. its hard to say have you logged it with this problem? and what version of the maft are you running?
 
I have
-version 2.02
-3" MAF
-stock 450's

All dip switches set to 0, as for the 3" MAF. Aux=0, Base=2

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maft looks good, u could try sucking some seafoam or equivalent into the intake manifold will help pin point any exhaust leaks u might have. if you have access to a logger post up a log, u said u checked for boost leaks find any?, what is your vacuum reading at idle
 
Sorry, I don't have a logger. I'm waiting for money to come in for DSM Link. I didn't want to spend money on a logger if I'm just going to get Link in a couple months.

Boost leaks all fixed. My vacuum is ~13 hg/in at idle. However, I live at like 5800 feet above sea level, and I also have cams.
 
Is .30" the right gap for my mods? Evo III 16g on 15psi or more I thought was supposed to be at .30". Correct me if I'm wrong. Could this even be causing the problem? Because before translator, it ran great.
 
the gap is good., i dont think 11 psi would blow out the spark on a .30 gap,you could gap down alittle if you were up in the high teens low 20s, i dont think thats the problem, is putting the stock maf back on an option? to try and see if this totally fixes the problems
 
yeah that is a good idea going back to the maf so you can narrow that down as the cause and not have to look at numerous other causes. if that still doesnt work we'll try to help you narrow down the bugs. all engines are alittle different and you might have to change the setting on your maf-t. it would really help to have logger thats one of the very first mods i sugest for anyone they start modding their dsm.
 
I know. I have like $525. I don't want to go spend $100 for a logger if I'm getting DSM Link anyway. But I'll keep you guys updated. Thanks for the help so far.
 
when i first started i had a similer set up (450's mft) any way i still had to mess with the mid and wot knobs a little it would studder when the boost got around 8 or 10. i also hit a fuel cut somewhere in there but i leaned out the mid i think like 2 or 3 clicks and the wot like 4 and it all cleared up and pulled like a donkey. but be careful watch you a\f ratio
 
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