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Stutterbox Pros and Cons

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I have a DSMChip with an adjustable stutterbox (and lots of other goodies...) and I think it's great. For me it's difficult to hold the RPMs myself because knowing me, I'd get too nervous and botch the launch. Now I just floor it, the stutterbox holds at 4100, and I get ready to go. My best 60 ft is a 2.3 on street tires. While that's not spectacular, it's definitely something especially for a person who could only manage 2.5-2.6 before. The only real CON of my stutterbox is that I can't do burnouts in the waterbox...not that I would want to anyway with street tires.
 
just checking, but you are all preloading the drivetrain first right? Without preloading the drivetrain you will freakin snap the sh!t out of something just clutch dumping w\ a studderbox
 
I use DSMLink's features.. stutterbox @ 5500 with Anti-Lag.. sounds crazy.. builds 16-17 PSI on my 50trim at idle.. (.63 a/r stage 3 (76 trim) hot side)

Before DSMLink i didn't have any problem doing 5500 rpm launches consistent on the street.. but it helps being consistent.. and i could never build that amount of boost.
 
92tealTSI said:
just checking, but you are all preloading the drivetrain first right? Without preloading the drivetrain you will freakin snap the sh!t out of something just clutch dumping w\ a studderbox

Just wondering, what do you mean by preloading?
 
All drivetrains have some degree of free play in them. Between the gears, in the axles, everywhere. If you don't have some load on the gears then when you go foward the one gear actually "hits" the other gear instead of just moving it. Imagine hitting something with a baseball bat instead of having it laying against the bat and then you swinging it. The hitting force is much more destructive. Preloading itself can be tricky though because you have to have some amount of force travelling through the clutch to the drivetrain yet at the same time not moving the car. The other way of doing this is just to slip the clutch sleightly at the beginning of th e launch then dump it all the way. Some of our clutch setups such as mine (act 2600 pp with 4 puck south bend feramic(don't ask, it's custom) ) don't allow you to slip it as much as others. But for most of you with street disc setups it isnt too terribly hard.
 
Jahjahpoet said:
Just curoius... But most people replying to this are AWD... so... as FWD, I'm gonna ask it... Will a studderbox help me out? and what would your recomondations be for setting it at?

I use it at the track only. on the street it wont hook
lets you focus on the tree and clutch better. I dont really have that much traction issues. I spin some in first but that about it. It all depends how much power you make too.
I get consistent 2.1s on street tires. which is not too shabby, cant wait to get rid my stock suspension :)
 
i pre-load the drivetrain in my car by getting on the sutterbox and letting the clutch out a lil bit with the e-brake cocked all the way up and the ass end starts to dip (feels like brake torqueing). its pretty hard on the clutch but im running the quartermaster twin-disc setup so it holds up :sneaky:
 
robdp44 said:
i pre-load the drivetrain in my car by getting on the sutterbox and letting the clutch out a lil bit with the e-brake cocked all the way up and the ass end starts to dip (feels like brake torqueing). its pretty hard on the clutch but im running the quartermaster twin-disc setup so it holds up :sneaky:

I bet that smells good ;)
 
by preloading the drivetrain, I mean with the revs up (ready to launch), let out the clutch until the cars drivetrain slack is taken up. Kinda hard to explain but you will know when you get it. Like it was said before ebraking helps but isnt necessary. Isnt really horrid on the clutch as dumping it without pre-load first though :D
 
i have jeffs chip (stage 3 keydiver) i have the chip made for 4500, 5000. 5500 , 6000, 6500, i found that the 6k gives me the best launch but i have broke a couple of axles from it also, on my 6k studder on the evo 3 16g my boost bounces between 16-20 psi! on a garret t3/t4 50 trim i only built about 6 psi .
 
What Do The Line Locks Do?

Solenoid that locks pressure in the brake lines. You pump the brakes a few times then lock that pressure in the brake lines with the line lock. In an AWD car it would probably be to all four corners of the car just to keep the car from moving while you preload the drivetrain- holding the clutch at the edge of engagement while on the 2-step. Then you can just press a button to release the lock and drop the clutch and you're off. Gotta have a clutch that can take the heat of slipping for several seconds as you wait for the tree to drop.
 
I use 5750 studder via dsmlink w/ antilag (not too harsh of settings) and i have 18psi off the line on my evo 3. Although it does knock im not sure why it does or how bad it is. I usually spin thru first.
 
I stutter at about 5500 with dsm link and see about 2PSI until I slip the clutch. Once I start moving boost jumps up to about 15PSI real quick. Granted I have a HUGE turbo, I really don't want alot of boost at the drop of the clutch, I'd rather roll into boost.
 
I stutter at about 5500 with dsm link and see about 2PSI until I slip the clutch. Once I start moving boost jumps up to about 15PSI real quick. Granted I have a HUGE turbo, I really don't want alot of boost at the drop of the clutch, I'd rather roll into boost.

With DSMLink? Comon man, turn that anti-lag on!!! ;)
 
I'm running a 5000 rpm 2-step right now and I still blow my tires away on a launch and spin through first. It doesn't feel particularly fast. It's because my tires are old and bald- I used to launch off a 5500 rpm 2-step with no wheelspin at all and it would slam you back in your seat. The difference between a 1.6x launch and a 1.8x launch at a minimum.
 
I just ordered my chip and originally I hade it set to a 5K limit, however a friend of mine has the same set up as me and cracked his transmission case with a 5K studderbox launch. I got it lowered to 4300 to ensure I don't damage my Galant tranny. Apparently the 1st gear is weaker than other transmissions. Has anyone else cracked a transmission while launching?
 
You are not going to like a 4300 rpm 2-step. I had mine set to 4000 for a while and it was worse than launching without the 2-step, with more bog. 5000 is as low as I'd go.
 
What is the lowest you would suggest?

Even 4500 was pretty bad, but that's as low as I'd ever go. 5000 is really a sweet spot on smaller turbos where the 2-step really comes into its own. It's all in how you launch the car- as long as you slip the clutch out smoothly the 5000 stutter shouldn't put undue wear on the car. I mean, barring mechanical mistreatment like wheel-hopping clutch side stepping you're still going to have to put some load on the tranny to get a good launch. If you're really that worried about breaking something, do what others in this thread did and get the 5000 limiter, but only use part throttle when you're launching. It will still bounce off the limiter and keep the revs where they should be, but you won't build as much boost and it will be easier on your drivetrain. Then when you really want to launch it you'll be able to go WOT and build some boost off the line.
 
Even 4500 was pretty bad, but that's as low as I'd ever go. 5000 is really a sweet spot on smaller turbos where the 2-step really comes into its own. It's all in how you launch the car- as long as you slip the clutch out smoothly the 5000 stutter shouldn't put undue wear on the car. I mean, barring mechanical mistreatment like wheel-hopping clutch side stepping you're still going to have to put some load on the tranny to get a good launch. If you're really that worried about breaking something, do what others in this thread did and get the 5000 limiter, but only use part throttle when you're launching. It will still bounce off the limiter and keep the revs where they should be, but you won't build as much boost and it will be easier on your drivetrain. Then when you really want to launch it you'll be able to go WOT and build some boost off the line.

So what do you suggest if it was a big turbo, something like a 60-1?:D
 
I've never had a big turbo so I wouldn't know. Once we get my friend's 6152 car out to the track I could probably answer that question. My guess is that 5500 is where you want to start, maybe moving up to 6000 or adding in some anti-lag timing retard if you're not building at least 10 pounds of boost.
 
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