The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Stupid Clutch!!!

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

marcman804

20+ Year Contributor
484
11
Mar 5, 2005
Cumberland, Virginia
I have a 97 GST and the other day I changed my breaks and I drove my car up the street to check them out. Everything was fine, I havent gotten down on it in a while so I decided to get up to about 85, once again everything is fine. I get back to my house and when I was pulling into my driveway it was hard to get into gear and the only way I could get it into gear was to push the clutch all the way to the floor. I drove it back out of the garage and took it back up the road and it still shifting hard so I adjusted the clutch out a little more because it didnt engage until it was almost on the floor. This morning before I came to work everything seemed fine until I went to leave and I couldnt even get it into gear. I have a brand new ACT 2100 clutch and a Fidanza flywheel with less than 10,000 miles on both of them. Can someone please help me diagnose this problem. (Sorry its so long)
 
try bleeding the clutch and see if it makes a difference...dose the pedal sink when you rest your foot on it? hows the pedal feel? and if you pump it does it go into gear smoother? from experence its sounds to me its the clutch master cylinder or the slave cylinder, check the slave first thats ###### the prob
 
Check both your hydralic cylinders for leaks and as well the fluid. If all seem fine. Re-adjust the clutch master cylinder push rod and bleed the whole system until you see no bubbles.

And be sure to wear some eye goggles because when I did it my first, I thought I was a badass without them until the damn brake fluid sprayed a stream of it straight into my eyes. Yeah it hurt and use a water bottle or whatever bottle to catch the stinging fluid. :thumb:
 
If you can afford it, replace the slave and master as a pair. I've been through 3 of each and they always go within a few weeks to 2 months of each other. Look under the dash where the pedal pushes the clutch rod and see if there's any signs of fluid leaking into the car ( that's where it ends up on a 2g anyway ) and check the rubber boot on the slave for fluid in it. If there's any in there or under teh dash on the floor replace them.
 
This is either your master or slave cylinder or any hole or gash in the lines. If you ever have problems with your clutch, always check the master cylinder for fluid first.
 
yeah i am going to try and bleed the clutch tomorrow on my lunch break since my car is still stuck at work. I had the master cylinder and the slave cylinder replace a week before i had to get the new clutch and flywheel because my dad thought that is what was wrong with it at first. Im hoping I just need to bleed the clutch because its no way i can afford another clutch, especially this close to christmas.
 
yeah i am going to try and bleed the clutch tomorrow on my lunch break since my car is still stuck at work. I had the master cylinder and the slave cylinder replace a week before i had to get the new clutch and flywheel because my dad thought that is what was wrong with it at first. Im hoping I just need to bleed the clutch because its no way i can afford another clutch, especially this close to christmas.

Regardless of if something is broken or not, you shouldn't have to pay for shit. If a shop did the clutch install for you, then they should be held responsible for it crapping out so quickly. And whoever did the master and slave cylinders should also be held responsible for fixing the car if that is what is wrong with it.
 
I agree with the post above, did you bleed your clutch? You never updated to say if you bled it or not. Make sure when you bleed it there are no air bubbles in the line. Let us know when you've bled it and if the problems still persist. I had a similar problem, as soon as I bled the line everything was in order again.
 
I'm having a similar problem, one day my car was hard to get into any gear while the engine was running, then when i would come to a stop and idle, put the clutch to the floor, and it would make a grinding noise. PSI motorsports (a local turbo/tuner shop) installed an ACT 2100 pressure plate, street disk, and ACT streetlite flywheel. They got the clutch in and it still wouldn't go into gear, then they put a slave cylinder in and it still would NOT go into gear. So they said that it was a faulty pressure plate. Now im paying the garage to take back out the pressure plate i just payed them to put in, bought a second pressure plate, and now i have to wait until ACT decides if it was their fault or not until i will be refunded for the second pressure plate.

Can pressure plates be faulty from the manufacturer? and what does this sound like? possible master cylinder too?
 
Sounds like its your hydraulic system, I've read nothing to bring me to the conclusion there is anything wrong with the clutch itself.
Start there.
+1

LISTEN to what people are telling you and try those before looking for more answers. it's one fo 4 things.. master cyl, slave cyl, clutch release arm and or the pivot for it. Check them ALL before thinking about it being anythign else.
 
I never had a chance to bleed my clutch because my car was stuck at work so I had to get towed to the shop where I originally had my clutch put in. They are supposed to check it out this monday so Ill post back again on monday when I hear back from them.
 
ok the mechanics finally looked at my car and they gave me nothing but bad news. they told me somehow the throw out bearing came apart and destroyed my clutch so now i have to shell out more cash and buy another clutch. i had the act 2100 with the street disc and i was wondering if i should go with this same clutch or is a different brand like exedy better. my goal is 350-400 hp.
 
I used the tob that came with the clutch.
There was your problem if you decide to beat your car. The ACT TOB's simply suck; When you get your clutch assembly replaced..again, go to the Mitusibishi dealership and buy the OEM TOB made by Mitsubishi. Also, when they replace everything again and since the tranny is out already, replace the clutch release fork and fulcrum pivot ball. It is way more then worth it. Trust me. :cool:
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top