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Stroker Installed and some problems

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boostedgsx1997

15+ Year Contributor
44
0
Apr 12, 2007
Las Vegas, Nevada
Well hello. since this is my first post I will try to explain everything and answer all questions. I just installed a SBR stroker in my 1997 GSX. Everything is nice and all the sensors have been connected ( properly I think to my knowledge). Car turns on and runs but RPM's are at 5K and if you dont give it a lot of gas it dies. BISS screw doesnt work for adjustments since the car wont stay running if I dont give it a lot of gas. RPMS also go from 5K to 1K and so on. I was just woundering what could be the problem. Knock sensor and CAS has been connected and I still cant figure out why its doing this.


Thanks
 
So you are saying that as soon as you start the car the engines RPM's jump up to 5000?
 
Yes, I have to give it a lot of gas to keep it running. It wont Idle. I might have forgotten or misplugged a sensor but I am pretty sure they are all connected properly. Do any one have a diagram of the 4g63 sensors. Thanks
 
Or your throttle cable or cruise control cable is on too tight...
When I first removed cruise control for non cruise control throttle cable I had it too tight
and it caused the tb plate to stay open like a quarter of the way and idle at like 3k...
 
have you checked your fuel lines coming from the pump to the filter to the rail? i had an issue where mine would rev high and than die quickly. and it turned out to be the line from the pump was kinked slightly which caused mine issue.
 
It sounds like you are running on only 2 cylinders. Do you have a spark tester. Also, I wouldnt be flooring your car in order to get it to start.


You dont need a spark tester, just remove a plug lay it on the side of the head when cranking over to see the spark.

My vote is for uncontrolled air entering the engine.
 
That doesn't make sense. If it was an air leak, he wouldn't have to punch the throttle just to keep it running. It'd be idle surging like crazy, not trying to die. And with idle surge the ECU cuts fuel at 2500rpm IIRC, never gets up anywhere NEAR 5K, unless the idle sensor switch on the TB is disconnected... even then it'd just rev high, not need a lot of throttle to keep itself running.

My guess would be to check the timing belt, check ALL the vacuum hoses, and make sure that all of the sensors are plugged in. If you have a datalogger, hook it up and get some numbers, they might provide some kind of hint.
Really sounds like an intermittent problem I had with my car in the past.. sounds like it's running on two cylinders, and unless you gas the hell out of it, it'd die. If you were careful enough with the loud pedal to keep it running or try to drive it, it'd send out clouds of white fuel-smoke, have near zero power and eat gas insanely fast. Still no idea what caused mine, as intermittent problems are a total bi*** to diagnose.. go away on their own, and you think you fixed it, only to have them come back again at the worst possible time.



You did connect both the cam angle sensor AND the crank angle sensor, right? It's a seven-bolt stroker, not a six-bolt swap as well? The MAS is plugged in?
 
Timing is off. I check 5 times. Local shop did the timing belt and its off 1 tooth for sure. The bottom crank and oil pump line up, when you look at the cam gears they are 1- maybe looks like a half tooth off. I double checked with a local DSM friend who knows his stuff and he confirmed timing is off my a tooth. But still, one tooth cannot cause the car to be like this. My last eclipse was more on timing being off and it just ran rought but never did this. Also . I found something extremly weird. When car is on, if I give it just a little bit of gas, maybe move the throttle plate a half a inch the car goes redline (rpms are really high) , no matter how much I press the gas even little that would normally make the car raise 500rpms now it raises it 5000rpms. ISC is OK and works perfect, TPS is installed and callibrated correctly so I know both of these are ok. One quick question. People that have SAFC SAFC2, when car is off, how much is your Throttle %. Just woundering.

Thanks guys If I cant get this thing to run in 5 days, I am taking it to a shop to get it fixed and selling it. I really dont have the time to bother with it anymore.
 
Sorry for posting again,. for some reason it would not let me edit my last post.
Its a 7 bolt stroker. Also, the sensor on the head, next to the TB is connected properly. But the CAS ( crank angle sensor) I looked and its the same connector that goes into the AC. I have no AC so the connector is just hanging loose. If you look at the connector that goes to the CAS and the AC they are the same. One is short the other long, I connected the short one to the CAS since the longer must be for the AC.
 
Always put a straightedge to the center of the cam gear bolts when putting on a new timing belt. It can look okay, but be two or even three teeth off on each gear. The straightedge gives you a point of reference, where they should both be. And yes, being one tooth off can run REALLY funky, and cause the kind of problems you're describing, depending on which direction, which cam, and if it's actually only one tooth off. Again, use a straightedge to check. It could be more than just one.

Don't know about 2Gs, but I really wouldn't think the A/C would plug in on that side, given where the compressor is located... possibly cruise control?
 
The a/c plug is the same plug as the crank angle sensor yes but i forget which one is the shorter/longer one. I think the crank angle is the longer wire since it sits lower than the a/c compressor.
 
Well with the shorter wire it fires up, with the longer wire it just turns and turns but wont crank. Also, on 2G the AC is lower then the CAS so the longer wire goes to the AC and the shorter to the sensor. I am dirty as a pig right now since I am doing the timing. I hope she fires up and runs ok.
 
Well, I redid the timing. It is 100% perfect. Everything is lining up correctly and I checked 3 times with a ruler and all and its perfect. Of course the car still has the same symptoms. I start it, revs to 3K then dies. Every sensor is connected, everything I have double checked and this piece of crap still wont idle. If I touch the gas pedal no matter how little, it revs like crazy. I have had so many problems from this car and others and found a solution. As of today, I am clueless. This is the first time I really dont know whats wrong with it. AlSO, after the car dies, it makes a hissing noise like air escaping from the head. That is after the car has died. Its really loud and scared the crap out of me and I cant figure out what it could be.
 
Just did a comrpession check. Its 148 150 150 145. I am out of ideas. When I start the car it also made a loud poping nose from the exhaust. I am thinking its because I have been cranking and fuel. Also spark plugs were very wet in fuel. Any ideas ?
 
Well, sounds like your cylinders are getting washed with fuel if the plugs are wet.

Only guesses I can make are possibly to make sure your PCV is working, make sure your valvecover is torqued down correctly (36 inch/lb max!) and make sure your plug wires are on in the right order, and to the right cylinder.
 
whats the sensor on top of the intake manifold? not sure if that was said. if loose it could possibly cause the issue(mine broke off)
 
Thats the MAP sensor. I have it disconnected since I havea 1G intake manifold because of the larger runners. I have spark and I have fuel. Spark wires are connected properly. Could the ISC cause this problem.
 
Have you checked your throttle cable yet? I don't think you said you did. You're using a 1g intake mani so make sure the bolts look like this (get the cable as far left as you can):

[(....................O) (......................O)]

Parenthesis are the slots on the tc, and the O's are the bolts. I had to put dot's in there because this site doesn't allow blank spaces.

Edit: There should be three bolt holes on the back. Make sure you're using the two holes that are the furthest right (looking at the engine).

Editx2: Do a boost leak test (or go over your clamps at least) and double check your vacuum lines too. The high idle could be caused by the TC like I said above, and it dying sounds like an air problem.

Editx3: The MAP/MDP sensor wouldn't cause this.
 
^

i was just trying to trouble shoot as a newb heh i know when i had the same issue mine was cracked. wouldnt stay running for anywhere more than 30secs and when u gave it gas it died, also when you first started the car it rev'd high than bogged down and cut off. i also had the fuel line pump to filter(hard line) that was kinked up. after i had fixed those two things it ran just fine.

(just explaining where i was coming from with my respsonses)
 
^

i was just trying to trouble shoot as a newb heh i know when i had the same issue mine was cracked. wouldnt stay running for anywhere more than 30secs and when u gave it gas it died, also when you first started the car it rev'd high than bogged down and cut off. i also had the fuel line pump to filter(hard line) that was kinked up. after i had fixed those two things it ran just fine.

(just explaining where i was coming from with my respsonses)

Oh I completely understand, it's cool. On a 2g manifold there is a hole in the manifold for it, so the cracked MAP/MDP sensor could have possibly been creating a leak from your manifold. The 1g manifolds do not have the hole for the MAP/MDP sensor.
 
Oh I completely understand, it's cool. On a 2g manifold there is a hole in the manifold for it, so the cracked MAP/MDP sensor could have possibly been creating a leak from your manifold. The 1g manifolds do not have the hole for the MAP/MDP sensor.

so with a 6bolt swap or a 1g manifold on a 2g, what would 'fill in' for the map sensor? or would is used in its place i guess? i guess im thinking if you drill the hole into the manifold and placed it there everything would be koscher*** LOL
 
Sorry but I dont have the throttle cable connected yet since it broke when old engine was getting removed. So I use little palte the cable connects to give it gas. Also the screw that controls idle rpms is all the way in giving it more gas but still it wont idle. I will record a movie with my camera and post it here.
 
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