Street/Road Race Build - First Timer

[astronull]

This is the Build Thread for Street/Road Race Build - First Timer. Reply below.

 

[astronull]

Thanks for tuning into my build thread. This is all new to me and I'm open to any and all suggestions!

Some broad over-arching goals for the build:

1. Capable of a casual track day & a weekend warrior.
2. Full engine rebuild - Forged internals - I'm just super interested in learning!
3. Don't cut corners. I have the money set aside to do it right and that's the plan. If I should do it, I want it done. All body work will be outsourced.
4. Touch EVERYTHING. Don't leave any piece of the car untouched.
5. A fun 0-60 > top speed. I want big HP numbers as much as the next guy, but I'm more interested in a fun weekend car over big straight line speed.
6. Stripped interior. It'll be easier on me mentally to ditch the interior rather than have a beat up, mismatched one. I also want it to look like a race car tbh.
7. Roll cage + harness. No reason, I said I wanted it to look like a race car
8. E85. It's readily available in my area and I want it. No other reason really.

Now let's talk constraints...

1. Skill - I'm brand new to DSM's + kind of newbie around cars in general. The most "intense" things I've done are valve gasket jobs & brake lines. I'd like to think I'm good & fast learner though.
2. Motivation - I'm results driven and get overwhelmed with my lack of knowledge. Trying to take things slow. I'd rather get it done eventually than burnout in 3 months.

If you have any suggestions to add to my broad goal list let me know!

 

[pauleyman]

Welcome to the group. Keep in mind you've chosen an aging platform with hard to find parts that are now expensive if you can find them. READ the resources page. Decades of R&D are at your fingertips forged by those long ago. You want 0-60? Choose a small turbo. Many will say the e316g is just a great fun fun street turbo. I agree. 300-350hp is a chassis like this isn't slow. It's it a race car? ehhhh...probably not. There is alot to be said for a quick spooling AWD car. You will leave many higher HP cars at the line. For me the "fun" factor negative of the car has always been that it's a 4 cyl. There is no escaping a 4cyl just does not have off idle torque like a large displacement engine. Learn how to keep the car in it's powerband and it will jump. Get caught sleeping at 1500rpm and the car will go nowhere at WOT.
Years ago I thought to myself of all the cars I've driven very few if any are this much fun for this much money. Sadly it's more expensive now but still reasonably cheap....ish.

 

[astronull]

Welcome to the group. Keep in mind you've chosen an aging platform with hard to find parts that are now expensive if you can find them. READ the resources page. Decades of R&D are at your fingertips forged by those long ago. You want 0-60? Choose a small turbo. Many will say the e316g is just a great fun fun street turbo. I agree. 300-350hp is a chassis like this isn't slow. It's it a race car? ehhhh...probably not. There is alot to be said for a quick spooling AWD car. You will leave many higher HP cars at the line. For me the "fun" factor negative of the car has always been that it's a 4 cyl. There is no escaping a 4cyl just does not have off idle torque like a large displacement engine. Learn how to keep the car in it's powerband and it will jump. Get caught sleeping at 1500rpm and the car will go nowhere at WOT.
Years ago I thought to myself of all the cars I've driven very few if any are this much fun for this much money. Sadly it's more expensive now but still reasonably cheap....ish.

Thanks for the tips, I'm excited to finally be getting started, been 4 years in the making. Doesn't need to be perfect, will get there with time!!

Have a trans & machine shop in mind. Seems like there's actually quite a bit of DSM support within 2hr of my house which is awesome.

 

[1cleangsx]

Welcome! With anything you get back what you put in! I think these cars are awesome and can be very rewarding if you take your time, have a plan/build goal and do things right the first time, good luck with your build

 

[Dusty Landrum]

Hey man and welcome to the dsm community. When I was reading through your build thread, I couldn't help but see almost my exact same build goals echoed through yours. You are in the right place for support and alllll the info you would need. If you have any questions remember to try the search feature and always feel free to reach out to me. Have fun dude and be patient. Parts are becoming very hard to find for the dsms and prices are always going up.

 

[astronull]

After sitting around for over a year I'm getting started... I'm moving to Colorado in May/June 2026 so it's get started or get selling. I chose get started.

Being new to cars in general and now knowing the platform I was anxious about getting started, not knowing what issues I may run into. Especially rust.
Lucky for me, I live 10 minutes away from Boostin' Performance. So I brought the car over and had them do an inspection and give me their take on whether or not it's a good restoration candidate. It got their seal of approval!

First thing first is a plan (with some ChatGPT help). This plan prioritizes taking care of mechanicals first so I can get the car running and drivable. I think once I can drive the car, the motivation will build itself. Importantly I'm getting rid of the engine rebuild, it's just too much right now and the engine runs. I plan to get the car to a good baseline, then look into big power modifications later down the line, although some power mods will be made in the early phases + ECMLink.
------------------------------------------------------------
Phase 1A – Engine Removal & Baseline (Oct–Nov)
Goal: Pull the drivetrain, inspect the engine, and prepare the chassis.

- Disconnect battery, drain fluids, label all wiring & lines
- Remove intake, radiator, intercooler piping, exhaust, axles, mounts
- Pull engine + trans as one unit; mount on stand
- Compression & leak-down test (on stand)
- Inspect ECU; send out for ECMLink socketing & install
- Replace fuel filter, spark plugs, plug wires
- Flush radiator, inspect/replace hoses & thermostat
- Replace all mismatched engine bay hardware (build hardware map)
- Document and photograph every connector and bolt group

Milestone: Engine removed, labeled, documented, ECU sent for ECMLink.

------------------------------------------------------------
Phase 1B – Engine Maintenance on Stand (Nov–Dec)
Goal: Refresh the engine for reliability.

- Timing belt, idler, tensioner, hydraulic tensioner (OEM only)
- Replace water pump + gasket
- Optional: Balance shaft delete kit
- Replace rear main seal, oil pan gasket
- Inspect clutch/flywheel; replace if needed
- Inspect engine mounts; replace or upgrade
- Replace turbo oil feed/return gaskets
- Clean and repaint valve cover
- Replace all vacuum and coolant hoses

Milestone: Engine refreshed, leak-free, ready to reinstall.

------------------------------------------------------------
Phase 1C – Suspension, Steering & Brakes (Dec–Jan)
Goal: Make the car safe and predictable to drive.

- Replace all front/rear control arm bushings (or arms)
- Replace sway bar end links, tie rods, strut mounts
- Replace wheel bearings as needed
- Install new coilovers (street/track tuned)
- Replace pads, rotors, and stainless brake lines
- Bleed brakes and clutch with DOT4
- Replace rear diff pinion seal (Shop Job)
- Four-wheel alignment (Shop Job)

Milestone: Rolling chassis ready for engine reinstall.

------------------------------------------------------------
Phase 1D – Interior Strip & Prep (Jan–Feb)
Goal: Prep for paint and refresh the cabin.

- Remove carpet, seat belts, remaining trim, sound deadening
- Optional: Remove dash for full repaint
- Clean, scuff, and treat rust
- Mask wiring & glass
- Shop spray interior in satin black
- Reinstall dash, console, seats, steering wheel

Milestone: Clean black interior reassembled.

------------------------------------------------------------
Phase 1E – Engine Bay Prep & Paint (Feb–Mar)
Goal: Clean, smooth, and repaint the bay.

- Degrease, sand, scrape seam sealer if desired
- Mask brake lines, rack, glass, fenders
- Shop spray engine bay (epoxy + urethane black)
- Inspect & rewrap harness with new loom
- Replace all bay bolts with stainless/zinc hardware

Milestone: Fresh bay ready for reassembly.

------------------------------------------------------------
Phase 1F – Engine Reinstall & First Drive (Mar–Apr)
Goal: Reinstall engine and get the car driving before the move.

- Reinstall engine/trans; torque new mounts
- Reinstall radiator, intercooler, turbo manifold
- Fill fluids (oil, coolant, trans, diff)
- Prime oil system before startup
- Start engine; check for leaks and temps
- Short local drives, then one-hour shakedown
- Note alignment, steering feel, leaks, noises

Milestone: Running, driving GSX ready for Colorado.
------------------------------------------------------------

Phase 2 & 3 will be post-move. Phase 2 being exterior, body & paint and Phase 3 being more power.

 

[astronull]

Got to work pulling out some of the interior and intake.

Interior is in pretty good shape. Has the original disc changer .
I plan to keep everything behind the front seats removed. Would like to swap to a black interior as well so began shopping for that. Carpet is disgusting and don't feel like cleaning so will be buying new from StockInteriors.

Spare tire wheel well is in rough shape but I planned to cut it out anyway.

The engine bay is a complete hodge-podged together mess, missing and mismatched bolts, intercooler screwed into the frame with a piece of bent scrap metal. Makes sense I suppose, previous owner said he dropped the engine it into this shell. So the shell almost seems unmolested so far. Couldn't find the identifying plate on the turbo but there's no shaft play which seems good.

Going to keep pulling stuff out. Looking at how chopped up the engine harness is I'm considering just getting the OHM Racing tucked harness.

 

[pauleyman]

Thats a Chinese 16g

 

[jesse12345]

If you plan on keeping that Chinese turbo run a restrictor and an in line filter. For some unknown reason the Chinese make the tolerances stupid tight on those and keeping junk out of it will prolong it. Also always let it warm up before ripping on it. I ran my Chinese 16g all summer at 20 pounds like that and had zero issues. I'm not telling people they should run them but if your budget is tight this is what I'd do. Then again you could find a good used genuine 16g probably for the same price as a new Chinese. You also do run the risk of possibly snapping a wheel because who know how durable the things actually are.

 

[astronull]

If you plan on keeping that Chinese turbo run a restrictor and an in line filter. For some unknown reason the Chinese make the tolerances stupid tight on those and keeping junk out of it will prolong it. Also always let it warm up before ripping on it. I ran my Chinese 16g all summer at 20 pounds like that and had zero issues. I'm not telling people they should run them but if your budget is tight this is what I'd do. Then again you could find a good used genuine 16g probably for the same price as a new Chinese. You also do run the risk of possibly snapping a wheel because who know how durable the things actually are.

I'm probably going to go FP Green. Guy near me selling brand new ceramic coated one + manifold for $1500.

 

[astronull]

Got a great deal on all new front suspension components. $350!

Front Lower Forward Control Arms
Front Lower Rearward Arms
Front Sway Bar Links
Outer Tie Rods
Front Upper Control Arms
Front Wheel Bearings
Front Knuckles. Never had bushings installed in it.