Strange noise

[changeddsm]

I just bought a fully built car from an individual who runs his own shop. I went down to look at the car and it was smoking very little I asked about this and he said he had tuned the car very richly because the AEM wasn't fully tuned yet. I was OK with this and went ahead and purchased the car. I get the car home and drive it for the first time that night, car runs great full of power nothing wrong. I'm happy with the car. I get it out and drive it in the day and notice that when I let the turbo spool a little it smokes alot when I shift.(a lot) I go to get the car inspected and on my way when the RPM's start to get high it studders on me. Not very happy at this point. :thumbdown The next time I go to drive it it's cold so I let it warm up and get it out, about a mile down the road I notice a noise. everytime I go to take off the noise gets louder and louder. I turn to go home (2 miles) and the car dies when I push in the clutch. I let out on the clutch and it startes again. The car now wants to die when I don't keep the rpm up a little I get home and the noise is really bad worried about the motor. I contake the previous owner he has "No idea". I go to start the car the next day it starts fine and sounds fine. I'm hesitant and wait for awhile nothing so I rap it up a little nothing, rap it hard and a little of the noise comes back as the car warms up more and I apply more throttle the noise gets louder so I shut down the car again. I found a couple of things on the site maybe rod bearings or lifters??? Anyone have any ideas? Please help.

 

[Froyd79]

Describe the sound a little better. Like a metal popcorn machine at high revs. Also if you have the specs of the motor off hand.

 

[changeddsm]

The noise sounds like a very loud lifter, almost a knock when I'm under the hood it sounds like it's coming from between the sheet metal intake and the motor. my mods include;
Engine
2.0l 4g63
six-bolt block machined by
bjs cylinder heads
eagle esp h-beam rods
je .020 9:1 pistons
bal shaft elim kit
entire engine arp fastened
clutch masters dual disc hi-ball clutch
w/ billet flywheel
unorthodox racing crank pulley
gzr spec tranny and center diff
bjs stg 4 head
1mm ferrea valves
hks cams
obx cam gears
greddy billet oil catch can and
overflow tanks
nology hotwires
pwr billet radiator w/spal fans
Fuel System
aem ems ecu w/aem super
wideband (yeugo)
modified stock fuel rail w/ -8an outlets
rc 720cc injectors
8 -an/ 12 -an fittings and braided lines
aeromotive billet fuel press. regulator
aeromotive pro series billet fuel pump
aeromotive billet pump controller
aeromotive billet fuel filter
polyethylene fuel cell 16gal
3rd shift customs polished stainless
fuel cell cover (thanks tim rogers!)
Turbo
forced performance custom garrett t4
south florida performance header
hks race gate 60mm
gzr/pwr spec fmic kit
hks ssqv blow-off valve
ahp 3" d/p
thermal research 3" cat back system
Electronics
greddy profec b spec 2 boost controller
j&m boost, iat, egt, a/f guages
autometer fuel press, oil press gauges
autometer pen shift light
Suspension
sprint springs
kyb agx adj. struts
pro 1 front strut brace

This motor has been together less than a yr. there shouldn't really be any probs. unless someone did something wrong, right?

 

[changeddsm]

Describe the sound a little better. Like a metal popcorn machine at high revs. Also if you have the specs of the motor off hand.

The sound is always there when the car is warm (it's only done this twice because when it happens I shut down) The noise gets louder and faster with the rpm's go up and slower and softer when it slows.

 

[rebuilt65]

take off each spark plug wire one at a time while the engine is running. If the sound goes away with a wire removed, you most likely have a spun connecting rod bearing on that cylinder.

 

[wkd4g63]

Hi, Its my car he bought, from what hes telling me it sounds like a lifter..... i NEVER had any knocking noises though..... the reason i think its a lifter is he said it ONLY does it after it warms up... now being the lifters are HYDRAULIC.... it makes sense for them to be quiet when the motor is cold ( had this problem on the stock motor in my old FWD )..... Ive been to the track with it 4 times since the build at low boost (12.5 lbs) and ran a 9.86@117mph 1000' track) with absolutely no problems (other than traction issues) , as to the SMOKE.... its running 10.5:1 A/F @WOT ....VERY RICH ..... we did this at ALAMO AUTOSPORTS so that if i wanted to run more boost it wouldnt be a problem. We had to tune it at 12.5LBS due to the fact thats all the w/g would make (too small a spring inside). here's the dyno sheet of the tune that day.....

this is what the car did the first time we dynoed before the 9.5:1 ratio , bigger turbo, sheetmetal intake, bigger TB, bigger I/C, those parts didnt go in till after i got Hit by that STUPID chick!

heres the dyno sheet from Alamo Autosports, courtesy of Brice Yingling. 330.5WHP/329.1 FT LBS TQ at 12lbs of boost @ 10.5:1 A/F @WOT. smoothing at 0. Done on an AWD, drive on DYNOJET dynometer.

the A/F meter kept popping out of the tailpipe , thats the reason for the funky a/f readings..... heck , if that were the readings the motor would have FRIED on the dyno id say not too bad considering the turbo is barley breathing. Brice said at 30-32lbs it should make OVER 600whp @ a stoich A/F.

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JP

 

[changeddsm]

take off each spark plug wire one at a time while the engine is running. If the sound goes away with a wire removed, you most likely have a spun connecting rod bearing on that cylinder.

I did this and the noise was still there. I haven't let it get back to the point it was at the other day so I really have to listen to the car to hear it. It takes about three min until you can start to hear it again. I was thinking even if I do take the wires loose they are still moving so why would the noise go away?

 

[huafist]

It's not a lifter - lifters won't kill the car like he said his went.
Could be a balance shaft, rod bearing, won't know for sure until you drop the oil pan and check for metal.

 

[changeddsm]

I'll drop the pan and take a look the car has a balance elim. kit so it shouldn't be that right?

 

[wkd4g63]

it has no bal shafts....... i HIGHLY doubt that the rod bolts are loose.... arp's rod bolts dont give... especially after 2100 miles and low boost. not really likely.. i still think its a lifter... as to the "dying" it did that after the battery went dead and sat for 6 months without being started ( in the body shop ) the tps setting has to be re-learned. it did this to me also along with running very rich.

JP

 

[HondaStalker]

mine is doing the same thing, but mine is only loud when its cold, and when i kick on it, it makes this REAL loud ticking noise, kinda sounds like locuses(the insects)

 

[johnk]

If the lifters are loud enough it will set off your knock sensor and pull timing so the car would run like crap. Is the noise louder around the valve cover or is it louder under the car?

 

[changeddsm]

it's louder at the top (valve cover) sounds like it's coming from were the intake meets the motor.

 

[johnk]

If it's from up top then I would say you have 2 options change the lifters with 3rd gen style lifters 130-140 if you shop around the guarenteed fix or start your search for the magic oil. Everyone has different opions on what that combo is. I've had luck with mobil 1 10w30 synthetic oil. Others will tell you things like royal purple or use lucas stabilizer.

 

[changeddsm]

Several people have mentioned the lucas stabilizer so I'll try that if not several people have also suggested 3g lifters so thanks alot.

 

[wkd4g63]

NO WAY!!! dont put a "fix it solution in it" bro, thats a $25K setup! if its a lifter , then by ALL MEANS, put a set of 3g lifters in it. That would be like Shep putting some SLICK 50 in his motor to stop some small noise....... see what i mean? When BJ built the head the lifters were checked before install and i didnt have any problems with them, but they are hydraulic so they can go bad without warning. Just replace them , itll be worth it in the long run!

JP

 

[changeddsm]

Well I'll look around for some 3g lifters at will skip the oil treatment the car may not come out again until next spring unless the weather decides to clear up so I'm not in any rush.

 

[wkd4g63]

cool, whatever you do dont skimp out on parts , youll regret it later..... always happens that way.

JP

 

[changeddsm]

I'm having trouble finding lifters at all let alone 3G's any help??

 

[fastwaytech]

Actually they are pretty easy to find. Just do a search here on the board, or on google. By the way, any lifters you see for sale will be the 3rd Gen, whether or not it actually says it (more then likely).

 

[TurboDSM86]

when i did my 6 bolt swap i ran out of money and had to resuse stock 1g lifters..what a mistake. they were loud as hell. i saved up some money and got the revised 3g lifters and thsoe are the best thing ive bought for my car so far. i think youll be really happy with it i think i got my lifters from slowboy racing.

 

[defrag010]

any updates to this?