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Stoker kit and block desision

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scrubs123

Probationary Member
4
0
Jun 17, 2009
Rochester, Minnesota
Well i bought a 2.3 stroker motor that was built to the hill for cheap. So the cams are HKS 264/272 and got AEM cam gears also and a nice head. now the block was bad but pistons and rods and crank are good walls in the block were smooth but how do i really know if this is a stoker motor and how do i find out what pistons they are and crank i know there eagle rods but yeah if need pics and measurements anything to help you help me would be great. The motor came out of a 95 and i have a 97 block will that even switch out? major newbie here
 
Well ok i made a good choose and a bad choose i bought a 2.3 stroker motor that was built to the hill for cheap so the cams are HKS 264/272 and got AEM cam gears also and a nice head. now the block was bad but pistons and rods and crank are good walls in the block were smooth but how do i really know if this is a stoker motor and how do i find out what pistons they are and crank i know there eagle rods but yeah if need pics and measurements anything to help you help me would be great. The motor came out of a 95 and i have a 97 block will that even switch out? major newbie here

:confused: Is that English?
 
It must be that new language where they talk without taking breaths and use no punctuation to confuse the readers...

Alright, so the motor came out of a '95. But was that the original motor in it? Count the number of bolts holding the flywheel on the crank shaft, it may be a 6 bolt. If it's a 7 bolt then yes, everything will go into your block. How many miles are on the motor you bought? The walls are pretty much supposed to be smooth. You should definately see some crosshatching on these blocks, atleast every 4g63 I've owned there was plently of crosshatching even on mine with 150k+ miles.

The only way you're going to figure stuff out is by measuring and finding part numbers on your parts and doing research. My Wiseco pistons have numbers stamped on top, there should be markings on the rods as well. Why is the block bad? We need some more information as to why you think this motor is bad. Also next time use proper punctuation, you'll get a lot more help from other members. Most are going to read the first line and go somewhere else. It's very annoying deciphering what you're trying to say.
 
I am sorry i am very new at this. Where the transmission bolts up to the block is no longer there. The story behind this motor is it was built in Chicago at a tuner shop. They decided to shave the flywheel(bad decision) and they flywheel blew apart and you can guess from there. I know that i have a set of eagle rods got that figured out but no numbers on the pistons or crank. Parts of the crank look to be shaved to fit in the block so i was thinking it could be a 4G64 crank but i am a newbie. There is numbers written on the pistons with permanent marker the numbers are 336.6/336.9/ 2@ 335.4. That might not be any help at all i am not sure of the bore. This is a 7 bolt crank.
 
those numbers are the weights of the piston and rods together i believe. If the crank is a 4g64 it will have a 64 stamped on it somewhere on the edge of the rod lobes. Lay the crank on its side look for a 64 then flip over and repeat.
 
I just checked. There is nothing on it other than AWF and a B. I tried to Google it and nothing. I am so lost in what to do.
 
Well i am deciding not to do the stroker motor. What is a good rebuild kit for my 97 block? Also can i use that nice race head and cams on a non stroker motor?
 
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