stock or light weight aluminum crankshaft pulley

[Bo0sTeD 4G63]

im building my 2g motor and after i got all the parts i saw that my stock crankshaft pulley had chips on the outer part of the ring and when i went to balance the motor the guy told me that the pulley was no good to buy a new one so instead of buying another stock i bought a light weight crankshaft pulley and then the guy told me not to use the light weight because they can damage the crank or spin a bearing so i was just wondering if it true about the light weight pulleys that i shouldnt use them so my question is do i buy another stock or should i use the light weight aluminum pulley????

 

[VTEC_THIS]

I would definitely run the stock crank pulley over the lightened one. A lot of the aftermarket lightened crank pulleys don't have the dampner (rubber piece) which absorbs the vibrations.

Also, if you're looking for a good deal on the stock pulley, go to Karking.com - under garage sale. They're selling them for only $50.

 

[snowborder714]

OEM, Fluidampr, or ATI. Those are the only harmonic dampeners I would consider running for the reason in post #2.

 

[99gst_racer]

Pick up a Fluidampr or ATI dampener.

The OE's flaw is the use of rubber, and I wouldn't trust a lightweight piece of aluminum to absorb harmonics.

 

[EclipseTical]

im building my 2g motor and after i got all the parts i saw that my stock crankshaft pulley had chips on the outer part of the ring and when i went to balance the motor the guy told me that the pulley was no good to buy a new one so instead of buying another stock i bought a light weight crankshaft pulley and then the guy told me not to use the light weight because they can damage the crank or spin a bearing so i was just wondering if it true about the light weight pulleys that i shouldnt use them so my question is do i buy another stock or should i use the light weight aluminum pulley????

good lord that was one helluva run-on sentence. Please use some punctuation in your posts; that was painful to read.

I would not use the lightweight pulley you have unless it has a harmonic dampener built into it. If it is just a solid piece of aluminum i wouldn't touch it. The OEM pulley was designed with one for a reason; without it the engine vibrations can wreck havoc on your motor.

If you absolutely want to go with an aftermarket one i suggest you get your hands on a Fluidamper MITSUBISHI DAMPERS BY FLUIDAMPR

 

[scoby41]

Are you going to get that much out of the pulley to to even warrant buying an aftermarket one if the stock one is fine?

 

[90laserRSfwd]

I used to have an aluminum under drive crank pulley, motor blew up with only 6K miles on the rebuild...

 

[daren_p]

Are you going to get that much out of the pulley to to even warrant buying an aftermarket one if the stock one is fine?

That depends, do you plan on keeping your DSM for more then a couple years? If so, its not uncommon for the stocker to fail & sometimes with alot less use then you'd expect. Replace the stocker a couple times & you could have an aftermarket unit, such as the Fluidampr, that won't ever need replacing. Also are you running a built motor? The OEM dampener is tuned to the specific harmonics of the stock motor. Chance the internals & your changing the harmonics. So the OEM will no longer be effective, where as the Fluidampr will work on any combo.

Now I know of a few that have used a lightweight aluminum crank pully & so far haven't had any issues but personally I wouldn't take the chance. I'd go OEM (which wouldn't be my favourite choice) or Fluidampr or ATI (the ones I would recommend)

 

[scoby41]

Just curious because the motor is going to be assembled next week. Only thing done is .20 over with 1g rods and 2g pistons and BSE kit.

I'm assuming it's the 6 3/8" damper?

 

[Bo0sTeD 4G63]

well the stock one i have has chips on the outer side from pulling the motor out do you think those chips will cut my belt thats what the guy at the machine shop told me. thats y i want a new one its minor chips nothing big

 

[VTEC_THIS]

When you originally posted I thought you were saying that the dampner had chips in it. Chips on the outside, I can't imagine that tearing the accessory belt. To me sounds like your machinest is a little anal. If you think about it the belt has to be about, what about 1/4" away from the very outside of the pulley. In fact I think my crank pulley has those chips as well from hitting the drivers side when I was taking out the engine.

 

[jaysonatticus]

I would agree with the above users about getting an ATI or Fluidampr. I recently had my timing belt replaced and decided to go with the Fluidampr. Have had no problems since and I highly suggest it. I also had the same predicament when I got my DSM as I thought heavily about using a lightweight pulley. Thanks to the members though I took the "Correct" direction.

I looked a lot of places around the web for a cheap price on the fluidamprs.

Go to: Full-Race Motorsports Call us toll free at (866) FULL-RACE

If I remember correctly still, I think I paid $292 and that was with shipping.

Best of luck and let us know what you route you end up taking.

 

[scoby41]

$300 is quite a bit of dough for a pulley

 

[nlzn]

Not for one you won't have to replace ever again

The ATI's have the best local rep around vs. the other aftermarket ones with the heavy pony DSM guys.

 

[Defiant]

If you're building a street car, stay with the factory harmonic balancer.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cylinder-head-short-block/268533-broken-crankshaft.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/1513989-post386.html

 

[romeen]

In addition to the ones mentioned, there is one other option. I have the Fisher Industries harmonic damper (same thing that Buschur used to sell). They are expensive but they are extremely well made. I took mine apart this past summer and was very impressed with the machining and tolerances. I bought mine direct from Fisher for under $300, but that was in 2002. It has worked great and it does seems like the motor revs easier with this on. Here is a quick read from SCC regarding it and a pic of mine.

Sport Compact Car Engine & Driveline ... - Google Book Search

 

[dredman1]

Also, if you're looking for a good deal on the stock pulley, go to Karking.com - under garage sale. They're selling them for only $50.

Anyone know if these are new pulleys or refurbished ones? Also, are they OEM or just cheap replacement non-OEM pulleys?
If they are in fact new OEM ones, I'll take a couple at that price. I'll appreciate any info anyone can give me about these pulleys from this company.
Thanks!

OK - I emailed Karking, and they said the pulleys are "OEM type". I guess this means they're like OEM, but not OEM??
Anyone ever used these or would recommend them?

 

[Evil_speedracer]

I have had a Karking one fail on me, on a balanced crankshaft no less. It is one of the reasons I do not trust them anymore.

 

[Silverpearll]

If price is limiting you I would go with a factory damper. Don't use the lightweight one as it does not dampen and will shorten the life of your engine. Otherwise go with an ati or fluidamper if its in the budget. I would only use the karking one if it comes with a warranty.

 

[LocknessMonster]

Im running a Fluidampr and it works like it should. The way i see it is why not spend a couple extra bucks and have the extra insurance.

 

[Defiant]

Also, if you're looking for a good deal on the stock pulley, go to Karking.com - under garage sale. They're selling them for only $50.

Avoid like a crack whore with two kids.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/pro...ilure-again-napa-dorman.html?highlight=dorman

 

[MidnightTSI]

That depends, do you plan on keeping your DSM for more then a couple years? If so, its not uncommon for the stocker to fail & sometimes with alot less use then you'd expect. Replace the stocker a couple times & you could have an aftermarket unit, such as the Fluidampr, that won't ever need replacing. Also are you running a built motor? The OEM dampener is tuned to the specific harmonics of the stock motor. Chance the internals & your changing the harmonics. So the OEM will no longer be effective, where as the Fluidampr will work on any combo.

Now I know of a few that have used a lightweight aluminum crank pully & so far haven't had any issues but personally I wouldn't take the chance. I'd go OEM (which wouldn't be my favourite choice) or Fluidampr or ATI (the ones I would recommend)

I have a question about the stock pulley. My motor is .20 over, with eagle rods, wiseco pistons, decked, and has balance shaft removed. Do you think the stock pulley will hold up under these conditions? I have never heard of this until now. Thanks.

 

[dredman1]

I have had a Karking one fail on me, on a balanced crankshaft no less. It is one of the reasons I do not trust them anymore.

Avoid like a crack whore with two kids.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/pro...ilure-again-napa-dorman.html?highlight=dorman

OK - thanks for the info everyone.
Well budget is a concern for me, but at the same time I don't want to put inferior products on my DSM.
The Fluidamper and ATI are out of my range, and I don't want any lightweight or underdrive pulleys after reading of the possible problems they can cause, so I'm looking at OEM. I see Buschur has it for $120. Anywhere else sells OEM cheaper??