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Starting to get the Curse

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sccrAdidas15

15+ Year Contributor
377
0
Aug 17, 2004
Lancaster, Pennsylvania
I just finished fixing my intercooler and decided to do the vacuum test for the BOV and wastegate. The BOV doesn't open till after 20 hg and the wastegate's rod won't move at all (i only applied up to 12.4 hg which is the limit that you have to stop at) I'm just pissed b/c in 3 weeks i'm going off to college but I want to buy these parts, but my parents disagree and say the car runs fine you need to focus on college. Does anyone know a good cheap replacement for a wastegate for the 14b turbo, I will prrb just get an aftermarket BOV but I don't know much about wastegates.
 
So what exactly is the problem. Are you using the stock 1G BOV still? What do you mean the wastegate actuator wont move? Move by hand? Explain a little what the problem is and why we are talking about wastegates in relation to BOVs.
 
yea, it was still the 1g stock BOV, the wastegate's rod that is suppose to move under pressure, I applied a vacuum pump to the wastegate and at 11.1psi on manual transmissions the arm should move, but it didn't move and i applied up to 12.4psi but no more b/c the Haynes manual says you can ruin the diaphragm if you apply any more pressure. Sorry, I was talking about the BOV b/c i tested the BOV first and then the wastegate and both were working properly.
 
sorry i'm kinda a noob on some of this stuff by actuator do you mean the rod that controls that arm is that what opens the flapper? I just read in the Haynes Manual that to test the wastegate actuator you apply vacuum to the wastegate and apply up to 12.4 psi no more and the rod is suppose to move at around 11.1psi and there was no movement so I figured the wastegate must be bad then?? I'm not sure.
 
You need to apply pressure to the wastegate, not vacuum. That's why its not opening.

If the car isn't overboosting or grossly underboosting, the wastegate is working.


The BOV is also opening at exactly the time it should. If it was open before 20in/hg it would be held open at idle.


I think all of your parts are just fine. Spend your money on something else.:thumb:
 
well, i don't understand what the Haynes manual is saying it says apply a vacuum pump to the BOV and the wastegate and apply the vacuum, i used a hand held pump and did exactly what it told me to do?? :confused:
 
The Haynes manual is written buy idiots.

Like I said. The BOV sounds like it tested out in perfect working order. The wastegate doesn't even need to be tested if the car isn't having boosting problems.
 
well i had boost leaks, and there was a major boost leak around the wastegate area, and I thought the BOV was suppose to open at about 14-15hg?? Are they really idiots? I mean Haynes is like the number one service manual.
 
I am confused here you keep talking about vaccume and then in the same sentence you use psi.

Your bov should not open at 14hg or it would always be open while at idle. the bov should only open when you have psi on it and then it rapidly changes. Example you are driving under boost and you let off gas.
 
^That's not correct. The BOV will open any time it sees high vacuum or there is a rapid change to higher vacuum.


Let me say this one more time to be clear, after this I give up, I've said my piece.

You're BOV is in perfect working order.

Do you even have any reason to believe your wastegate is not working correctly? Is the car not boosting right (way high or way low)? If its boosting normally, then don't even worry about it. The wastegate is working.
 
well it takes a while for the boost to build up but there was a leak in the intercooler fixed that now there is a leak somewhere around the wastegate area.
 
for the boost leak test i pressurized the whole system to check the wastegate i used a vaccum pump.
 
and when i pressurized the whole system there was a big leak coming from around the wastegate area??
 
sccrAdidas15 said:
for the boost leak test i pressurized the whole system to check the wastegate i used a vaccum pump.

I think you are confused a little bit concerning terminology.. A vacuum pump would create negative pressure, or would be like sucking. Your wastegate wont open under vacuum, it takes positive pressure, or blowing. Your turbo creates positive pressure, and when the positive pressure reaches a certain point at the wastegate actuator, it causes the wastegate to open, pusing the rod foward, opening the flapper. To pressurize the system, you wouldnt use a vacuum pump, you would use an air compressor. I dont mean to insult your intelligence, jutst want to make sure you get your terms straight so we can help you a little easier. :dsm:
 
sccrAdidas15 said:
and when i pressurized the whole system there was a big leak coming from around the wastegate area??


Sounds to me like if it is leaking from near the wastegate area it is the 14b/16g compressor housing o ring. You can find them here http://www.machv.com/14tucohoo.html the only downfall to ordering this is you have to do a minimum order and the o ring doesn't meat the minimum
 
droppinbottom said:
Sounds to me like if it is leaking from near the wastegate area it is the 14b/16g compressor housing o ring. You can find them here http://www.machv.com/14tucohoo.html the only downfall to ordering this is you have to do a minimum order and the o ring doesn't meat the minimum

I will just ask my dad to get that part from his work, is this o'ring between the turbo and o2 housing? It's funny how haynes is giving ppl incorrect info.
 
Well, i just got back from taking a test drive after putting the car back together, it still feels pretty laggy like before the intercooler fix, so i'm guessing that leak by the turbo is HUGE or something, any more info on this 0ring? is this like a gasket? I'm also gonna get some new vacuum lines see if that helps! :thumb: Thanks for the help everyone, like i said i'm still learning how to work on my car and this site has deffinately helped me thanks! :dsm:
 
No, the O-ring doesn't go between the turbine and O2 housing. I was unaware there was an O-ring in those housings, but the only place it would go is between the compessor housing and the center section.

Where exactly "around the wastegate area" was the leak coming from. Can you feel around for it and be more specific?


As for your lag...
Have you checked for pre turbo exhaust leaks? This will cause more noticeable lag than a boost leak. Just start the engine when its completely cold and feel for leaks between the turbo and manifold and the manifold and the head. Check for any broken or backed out bolts/studs/nuts. Be careful, things get hot really fast.
 
that's the thing i can't really tell where the leak is coming from it just sounds like it's coming from the turbo area, and for exhaust leaks i know i have an exhaust leak somewhere b/c when i did the seafoam the smoke was coming from my engine bay, i'm guessing it's either the manifold (since it's still the stock 1g) or my 02 housing as I have a new 3" exhaust from the turbo back.
 
There's a good chance your manifold is cracked, 1G's are notorious for that. Feel for leaks on the underside of the runners. Depending on the size and severity of the crack, this could account for your lag problem.

A cracked O2 housing or blown out O2 gasket will make noise but won't effect spool time.


As for the boost leak. I would look into that O-ring that someone else mentioned. I can't think of anywhere else on the turbo it could be leaking from.
 
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