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poonman

15+ Year Contributor
504
3
May 19, 2006
Tampa Bay, Florida
OK I can not figure out what is wrong with my car.
I ran fuel injector cleaner through my car as I always do every 2 months.
The problem is when i start the car it conks out and will keep conking out unless i give it a lil gas for about 4 seconds then it stays running, i really only does it when the car sits a lil and the engine cools down.
I have changed my Fuel pressure regulator, MAP Sensor, TPS Sensor, Idle control Sensor, Fuel Rail, Fuel filter and cleaned the intake mani and throttle body 3 times does anyone have any ideas what the hell is going on because i am completly lost also I dont have any vac leaks
 
Clean the IAC, and test the fuel pressure. Does the fuel pressure hold steady when the pump turns off?
 
Bought a new IAT Sensor yesterday Put it in and did check the pressure I drop from 40/45 down to 0 in 30 seconds once i turn the car off.
I pray its not the check valve in the tank.
 
:) It is leaking somewhere. Inspect all the lines for leaks. It seems to lose pressure almost too quick to be a leaky fuel injector, but if the car backfires during deceleration, it may be. Then of course if the check ball in the fuel pump.
 
ok i fixed the leak problem, the puel pressure regulator was leaking, so i changed the o rings and now it holds 40psi full time put still does the same problem

I dont have any idea what the hell is going on, i have changed EVERYTHING, even checked for vac leaks in my intake mani everything is resulting perfect yet it still wont start right when its cold or not warmed up I even changed ALL my vac lines incase there was something overlooked

I did notice one thing though, if i unplug any of the hoses to the intake mani it starts right up. but runs a lil high idle
 
Is your IAC clean, and plugged in firmly? With it starting when you remove a vac line, that tells me it is choked, the IAC isn't opening (or not opening far enough, or its ports are clogged)

Also, your fuel pressure should be closer to 50psi.
 
I changed the IAC ive changed EVERY sensor but yes you are exactly right, it is deff choking all i have to do is BARLEY touch the gas pedal and it fires right up, i have even taken the throttle body off and cleaned it i get 50 psi fuel when i touch the gas.

I have been leaning back towards the IAC maybe i got a bad one or something. But yes it acts like crap unless i push the pedal and the colder it gets the wose it starts, like this morning it fired right up, it started raining and droped to about 80 its came right back

But now that its cold i disconected a vac line the let air in and it still does the same thing
 
OK i havnt changed IAC sesor BUT i would like to know if the pludger on the IAC sensor should push in and out easily, i have an old one that i was going to put in but it might be bad I read this thing some guy wrote
1. Remove the IAC.

2. Hold the base of the IAC firmly.

3. Push "IN" the pintle end in a side to side motion until it retracts.

4. Check for any scuffing on the pintle. It should be a very smoth surface.

5. Using a flshlight check inside of the throttle body of where the pintlr SEATS and inspect for debris, roughness or damage as it also should be a very smooth surface.


Well when i try to push mine in i have to use plyers and wiggle it in and out, im not the creator of the sensor but i dont think it should be that hard to push in and pull out
 
OK I have changed the IAC, got ahold of my friend with the 3000 dollar snap on logger EVERYTHING its working all the way down to the brake peddle light, he has been a machanic his whole life and we tried everything known to man and we both can not udderstand why my car wont start right unless its exactly 199 degrees or higher.

Please someone give me some info im lost along with my machanic.
 
i figured it out.

420A

ROFL

no i'm not sure though, my NT does stupid shit like that too that no one can figure out...it's not something stupid like a T-stat is it?
 
no its not the t stat, im getting perfect volt readings from everything its just when the car drops below 199 it wont start without hitting the peddle, im just hoping its not the ECM
 
i was logging with that machine and basicly im getting damn near 5 volts when the car is cool and when it acts stupid its about 3.4 v strange thing is when its warmed up its about 2 and im pretty sure thats were its supposed to be, im going to test the wires today and see if i have an open ground on 1 of the 4 wires, i just got the ALLDATA program last night so i now have info for any car anyone needs up to 2005
 
With the key to the "on" position test the voltage in the wires on the Cam sensor pigtail. The middle wire is the ground. One outside wire should be at 5v and the other 9v. I had the same constant dying problem until one time it shut off at a stop light and wouldn't re-start.

If the voltages mentioned above aren't 5 and 9, the problem is your ECU.
 
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