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starter moves but won't spin

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gingerbredman00

10+ Year Contributor
316
1
Jul 9, 2009
TULSA, Oklahoma
For some reason my car would not start earlier.
It would not even crank so I thought the battery might be low, but the SAFC says like 11.9V or something.
So i pull the starter and run straight wires from my battery and the gear moves out , but it won't spin.
the part couple days it's been cranking really slow but running just fine.
This all started after I washed the car! new rule leave the car dirty.. haha
 
Alright, let me make sure I am understanding here.

The starter drive gear will engage and retract, but it will not spin?

If I am understanding this correctly, here is what I would do:

1. Try jumping the car, if it starts battery is probably bad. Let the alternator charge the battery up and then turn it off and jump it again, if it still is slow to start, the starter is probably dying. This is a poor man's test. If you can take the starter off and take the battery into AutoZone to have them bench tested. If you cannot, try getting the car to AutoZone and have them live test it with their diagnostic machine to be sure.

If it doesn't spin at all during jumping it, go to 2...

2. Try to manually turn the car over, make sure the rotating assembly spins freely. If not...well erm, the problem may not be the starter at all. I'd like to just assume this is not going to be that big of an issue.

If the rotating assemble spins freely, then the starter is probably just burned out and you need a new one. Take it our bring it to AutoZone have them bench test it for good measure.


One other question. When the battery is not under load it is 11.9, but what does the voltage fall to under load?
 
The starter is not in the car at all anymore, I have been doing this test with power wire for an amp so I know the wire is not too small.
The battery was bought about 4 months ago.
But yes the gear will engage and retract but it wont spin.
I can spin the gear by hand but under battery power it will not spin
the afc will say 11.9 with the key on, and 11.8 or 11.7 while holding the key in the start position.
The car would not crank so I figured my starter took a crap so I removed it and started my testing. I'll go try this with the battery from my explorer.
I also called autozone and he said he don't know if it's seized because I can spin it by hand and the gear still try's to engage
 
It's probably not seized, but all a starter is, is a basic electromagnet, there is a copper winding inside and magnets and the electrical input ocelates aroud the copper winding to produce positive and negative electromagnetic fields to repel against the magnets causing the starter to spin, the more electricity available the faster it spins.

I mean the cost of repairing a starter when it burns out, like this one appears to have, is such a negligible savings that is better to just replace it and get a warranty and a new part.

From what you are telling me with the battery, the issue will 99% of the time be the starter. You know the solenoid is working because the gear engages.

I am assuming you made sure that the engine turned by hand, so I would say you are looking at a new starter.

As I side note the guy at AutoZone probably couldn't spell bench test or tell you how their machine works, he just can tell you he follows the pretty diagram in the book and the machine tells him if it is bad or good. Basically, still bring it in, let him test it and just let the machine tell you what he doesn't know.
 
^^ YOU ROCK^^

well there are a few options
1 buy a new one $70
2 re-build mine $15 (sounds fun, I like this idea)Starter Brush Holder Assembly by BWD - Part X622 - Advance Auto Parts
3 pay to have it re-built $40-$50 (could be a big waste)
There is a picture in the link and the little square copper looking things, well they look all choppy and un-even on mine.
I took it apart and cleaned everything with alcohol and without the cap on the back (everything is exposed) nothing try'd to spin at all. It looks like that's the part that would make it spin to me..
 
If you do decide to try the re-build yourself, you should do a tech guide. It's a good learnin experience and can save people money. It's not too hard, so don't sweat it if you do.

The brushes being worn is a typical reason for starter failure on many cars.

If you do buy a replacement, which at that cost I would probably do that, at least you have a warranty to back you up with. Plus you probably would get a long life span out of it. Our cars don't kill starters often, and when they do it's because someone continuously started it from a weak battery.
 
I can't find that starter piece at any of the part stores.
It's available but not at any of the stores near me.
I'm not driving 20-30 minutes away to buy the little piece to find out I wasted alot of gas and some money.
I will just bite the bullit on this one and buy a new or reman starter.
 
For some reason my car would not start earlier.
It would not even crank so I thought the battery might be low, but the SAFC says like 11.9V or something.
So i pull the starter and run straight wires from my battery and the gear moves out , but it won't spin.
the part couple days it's been cranking really slow but running just fine.
This all started after I washed the car! new rule leave the car dirty.. haha



did you ever find out what the problem was. I quite literally have the same issue with a car I recently purchased and can not figure out what it is. finally knowing would be great
 
Starter brushes are wore out if it won't spin but does move the starter drive gear in and out, so have new brushes installed or get a new/rebuilt starter.
That thread was 6 years old just FYI.
 
Starter brushes are wore out if it won't spin but does move the starter drive gear in and out, so have new brushes installed or get a new/rebuilt starter.
That thread was 6 years old just FYI.

I know just figured I would take a long shot. I just bought the starter. and it tests good on a bench test at auto zone.
 
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