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2G TSi starter clicks but won't spin

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Dakota Biddinger

Proven Member
139
2
Aug 5, 2017
Juneau, Alaska
So I went to start up my 95 Eagle Talon after putting a new engine in it, and when I went to turn the key the starter only clicked. I took the starter out and had a friend turn the key while I watched the starter and the gear went up, but didn't spin. I then put a different starter in it and it did the same thing. We checked if the battery was charged, and it was. We tried multiple things to try and fix it but none worked. Just wondering what it might be and how to fix it? Anything helps
 
The first step is to check the main supply voltage at the starter while you're attempting to crank. If that's dipping really low (less than 9 volts), you probably have bad connection(s) somewhere between the battery and the starter. Battery terminals are suspect here, as well as the terminal on the starter itself. A bad ground is possible as well - there is supposed to be a ground wire from one of the starter bolts to the chassis.

Next, if that all looks good, it's possible that the starter solenoid isn't getting enough voltage. If that's the case, it can't engage the starter properly. Check the voltage at the starter solenoid while attempting to crank. It needs at least 9 volts to work properly. I actually had this happen on my car. I was seeing about 6 volts at the starter solenoid. I fixed it by adding an additional relay to operate the starter solenoid.
 
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Bad battery cable or connections. Clean them all off and re-tighten. The battery negative cable needs to go directly to a starter mounting bolt (not to the body/frame and from there to the mounting bolt - that can drop some voltage at that connection under high starter current draw). A separate cable should go from battery negative to body/frame. Or it could be a weak/old battery (even though you charged it).
 
Thanks guys I'll definitely try what you guys said tomorrow. Right now there is one ground wire running from the negative battery terminal to the starter bolt and that's it. The battery connection clamps are pretty old and beat up so I'm not sure about those
 
One negative wire is ok as long as it's the large one, no internal breaks, and the clamps on the ends of both battery cables (both ends of each) are clean and tight. The clamps sound like your problem - very common. The huge current the starter requires drops too much voltage across the resistance of poor connection clamps (dirty, corroded, not tight, etc). So voltage at starter drops from battery 12.6V to less than 9V which starter requires. {Other electrical things work because they don't draw as much current so way less voltage drop.}
 
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One negative wire is ok as long as it's the large one, no internal breaks, and the clamps on the ends of both battery cables (both ends of each) are clean and tight. The clamps sound like your problem - very common. The huge current the starter requires drops too much voltage across the resistance of poor connection clamps (dirty, corroded, not tight, etc). So voltage at starter drops from battery 12.6V to less than 9V which starter requires. {Other electrical things work because they don't draw as much current so way less voltage drop.}
I'll have to get some new clamps then and see if that works. The clamps aren't good looking at all so I'll get some new ones and see if they work any better. I'll update once I do
 
If it were me, I'd pull the starter and bench test it, then do all of the cleaning on terminals as mentioned. It could be old, wore out brushes in the starter itself if it doesn't spin. The armature wears them down over time. If you clean everything up and still have that problem, pull the starter and test.
 
Try cleaning battery cables both ends. Note to tell if your battery is weak (even though you charged it), you can try jumping the starter from another vehicle's battery that you know is good. You must connect to clean connection points or the starter itself however.
 
If you took it out of the car and tried it and they still don't spin, it seems like you have 2 bad starters. It doesn't take very much power at all to spin a starter with no load on it. Of course, all of the things the other people have said need to be checked as well, but I'd try a known good starter first.
 
Did you try connecting the starters directly to the battery?
Use your jumper cables with positive to the stud, the negative to the casing and a jumper wire from the positive to the solenoid. Be careful to to short anything.

If that didn't work, they are dead.
 
Well I've heard that there are only 3 wires for the starter which is the main power, ground that goes to the negative terminal, and that little clip. But I just found out that mine has 4 wires. One goes to the positive battery terminal but it's disconnected? Could that be the problem ? I can post a pic if it helps because I didn't know exactly how to explain it
 
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