The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Stalling/Stuttering Problem

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

napkinthief

15+ Year Contributor
1,125
16
Apr 16, 2005
Cliffside park, New Jersey
Ok well I just got the timing belt done professionally because I just couldn't figure it out. Car runs wonderfully, except at idle and when slowing down to a stop. When the car is turned on, the rpms go to around 1200 then drop to 300 then go back up. It feels like the car is going to die then catches again and idles. When coming to a stop sign or a red light, The rpms will keep dropping to as low as 300, and even sometimes the car will just die. It will turn right back on, but act as if the battery is weak. I have changed all my belts, changed my plug wires, might get new plugs soon to see if they will do anything. Anyone have some input please?

Just wanted to add that on my boost gauge, the vaccuum goes down to around 6-7 then goes back to around 12-15. It goes down to -20 when decelerating, and 12-15 at idle.
 
I had the same problem I took the Postive and the nagative off the batery put them together to rest the ECU and I haven't had a problem yet it went away..
 
That may be something I try but not unless I cant figure the problem out. Something about shorting out my electrical system just doesn't put my mind at ease. My amp power cable shorted out against my battery hold down and I thought I fried my ecu. It did come back though.
 
SlowdsmGST said:
I had the same problem I took the Postive and the nagative off the batery put them together to rest the ECU and I haven't had a problem yet it went away..

Like you said Nap, don't do this.

It sounds to me like you have a massive vacuum leak. My car did the same thing when I had either the PCV or brake booster line off to feed SeaFoam into the intake manifold. I don't know why anyone would take a PCV or booster line off to change the timing belt, but you never know... take a look around the engine bay for disconnected hoses. Another possibility is the vacuum line that leads to the charcoal canister - you're idle will be idle if it isn't connected to anything.

Other than a vacuum leak, it sounds like you might have a fuel issue. Did you mess with your stock FPR when you were putting in the turbo?
 
I have a feeling its a vaccuum leak aswell. I have so many things teed off its not even funny. Im going to pull all my tees and just gorilla glue in straight connectors where I teed everything. Ill let you know how it turns out.
 
I think I got all my vaccuum leaks out, how do I test is there are any more? Use a boost leak tester?
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top