1G Stalling issues (not driver error)

[POS_Tsi]

So the second day owning my 1g tsi and I found that if I put the clutch in while decelerating with the RPMs above 2k the car with sometimes stall out.

Today while driving I found that if I take to much time between shifting (leave the clutch in to long) it stalls out and when I let the clutch out in the next gear I'm actually jump starting the car.. I don't dump the clutch so it's a smooth jump start so I never noticed until I watched my tach when shifting slow.

Not a big deal I just have to shift before it dies, and let the RPMs drop before putting in the clutch right?

Well tonight when just going on a cruise I look like a complete idiot beside a Honda because at the light in neutral clutch to the floor my car dies down to 500 rpms and stalls out. Okay not that bad, start it up again and with in 3 seconds it does it again.. this happened 3 times The 4th time I gave it gas and kept the rpms at 1.5k. Light turned green and I pull away casually and when I'm around 3k I hear the Honda's "Vtec" hit so I put the pedal to the floor and pull past him with my tires squealing

Anyways... Where should I start with the stalling problem ..?

 

[govproperty]

Is your Blow off valve recirculated? Have you checked for boost leaks?

 

[Boostinsideways]

My suggestion would be to sell it to someone that is gonna take care of it.

 

[H4G64T]

That's where I would start.

 

[POS_Tsi]

No, the PO didn't have it recirculated but I will definitely do that. As far a checking for boost leaks could I rig something together to test that? If not I'll see if Chad at CBRD would test it for me. @boostin, thanks for the help buddy

 

[doggietom]

Check your idle screw, and do a boost leak test

 

[dsmrebel084]

Sounds like a boost leak

 

[POS_Tsi]

How do I check for boost leaks? and could it be the idle screw even though when it's not acting up it idles at 1k?

It probably is a boost leak the front mount and I/C piping seem half-a** put together... I'll look more in detail tomorrow in the day light. Thanks.

 

[1983gsp]

No, the PO didn't have it recirculated but I will definitely do that.

^--- this. Should fix the problem

 

[govproperty]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...209898-build-boost-leak-tester-your-to4e.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...1554-boost-leak-check-device-alternative.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/204959-boost-leaks.html

But recirculating should help a lot.

 

[POS_Tsi]

Took the time to look in to it in more detail (weather has been crappy). Needless to say I should of paid less for this than I did. I have more boost leaving the piping than what is getting to the throttle body (sarcasm) But seriously I don't see how it idles as well as it does for the number of boost leaks it has. Thanks everyone, I'll be back when there all fixed

Ok, time to see if the noob understands..

How to have an exhaust shop weld a nipple on my intake so I can run a tube to recirculate my BOV. When the rpms are up and I have any boost as soon as I let off the gas to decelerate the bov is open letting out the air. Since it's running the stock ecu the ecu reads how much air the engine has via the maf and it doesnt compensate for the air the was lost out the bov so it runs rich and dies out.

Is that why it does this? (engine completely warm and in neutral)

Car Stalling (10 second vid)

 

[ExpresS]

Took the time to look in to it in more detail (weather has been crappy). Needless to say I should of paid less for this than I did. I have more boost leaving the piping than what is getting to the throttle body (sarcasm) But seriously I don't see how it idles as well as it does for the number of boost leaks it has. Thanks everyone, I'll be back when there all fixed

Ok, time to see if the noob understands..

How to have an exhaust shop weld a nipple on my intake so I can run a tube to recirculate my BOV. When the rpms are up and I have any boost as soon as I let off the gas to decelerate the bov is open letting out the air. Since it's running the stock ecu the ecu reads how much air the engine has via the maf and it doesnt compensate for the air the was lost out the bov so it runs rich and dies out.

Is that why it does this? (engine completely warm and in neutral)

Car Stalling (10 second vid)

Have you resolved the issue yet? Whenever i depress my clutch the car just drops idle or stalls.

 

[Bud92gsx]

It sounded like his bov was not recirculated..If you have any engine shots I can tell you if yours is the same way..I see maf-t in your profile but no list on maf?

 

[ExpresS]

It sounded like his bov was not recirculated..If you have any engine shots I can tell you if yours is the same way..I see maf-t in your profile but no list on maf?

GM 3 IN MAF. BLT done. I'm lost.

 

[1stgenracer1993]

sounds like the start of the ecu going bad, my car isnt turbo but i had the exact same problem. did that forever then progressed to the check engine light turning on and off by itself. then it would die while driving and then it just wouldnt start anymore.

 

[bombDSM]

Mine did the same thing. It was the isc.

 

[ExpresS]

Any update OP?

 

[Chriztopher]

I am having the same original issue and I have sealed all my boost leaks. It holds good pressure and I am recalculating. I have visually inspected the ECU, nothing was fried. Any suggestions?

 

[kablamo97spyder]

sounds like a bad idle motor

 

[Prib9671]

I just had this same issue. I tried swapping out the whole trottlebody with no luck then swapped out the ISC and BISS/o-ring. It ran better for a week then it started doing it again. It turned out to be the two main gaskets for the throttle body. They looked perfect but I guess they needed to be replaced, try some OEM Mitsubishi gaskets.

 

[WES_393]

Bringing this one back. I've been having the same issue lately. I didn't have the issue until I got my car to idle right (biss screw was corroded) Now the car has no trouble idling it's rock solid at 900 on Link with the ISC position at a perfect 30. I can rev it all day in neutral and it won't stall. Once I get a load on the engine and then shift out of gear, the car will fall right on it's face unless I'm at full boost or high RPM's. I've done multiple BLT's with the last one showing no obvious leaks, BOV is recirculated, replaced the ISC, replaced the TPS, idle switch works, new throttle body gaskets, the ECU was recently tested by ECMTuning when the socket was installed. Any ideas?

 

[ryancampbell98]

Has this problem ever been solved? Every thread I see it doesn’t seem like anyone came back from this and it’s happening to me.

 

[dwb]

Has this problem ever been solved? Every thread I see it doesn’t seem like anyone came back from this and it’s happening to me.

I see you run a GFB hybrid BOV. I know absolutely nothing about this BOV but looking at some pics it appears it does not recirculate back to the intake. If you are running the stock MAF, the vent to atmosphere may cause the issue you are seeing.

Furthermore, have you performed a boost leak test? How's your idle otherwise?

I'd suggest to start a new thread instead of replying to half a dozen necro threads.

 

[ryancampbell98]

I see you run a GFB hybrid BOV. I know absolutely nothing about this BOV but looking at some pics it appears it does not recirculate back to the intake. If you are running the stock MAF, the vent to atmosphere may cause the issue you are seeing.

Furthermore, have you performed a boost leak test? How's your idle otherwise?

I'd suggest to start a new thread instead of replying to half a dozen necro threads.

It recirculates. I gave the option to vent or recirculate.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[SixBolt_16G]

It recirculates. I gave the option to vent or recirculate.

How is your idle? Have you run a boost leak test at all? Considering that all of these threads are revolving around these 2 questions, lets get that out of the way first....

(Wondering if its possible that his Biss screw is tightened just enough to idle correctly while sitting still, but cause issues when he shifting/decelerating....)