stalling at stop lights

[4g63tc]

i own a 1995 gsx auto. with no mods i can't do any upgrading until i get rid of this stalling problem. i've already looked at the vfaq's and found nothing that would be of any help.i adjusted the biss, did a complete tune up, and even changed the o2 sensors(i was using a ton of gas). and tested both the tps, and the isc (both were good).

here's what happens when i pull to a stop after driving about 20-30 minsthe car starts to buck violently, while the rpms jump from 200 -1000 rpms, and dies. but when yhou restart the engine it fires up fine and runs good until the next light(like nothing happened).

it's been to the dealer, and another shop so far i've spent about $1500 without any results. any help would be greatlt appreciated.

Thanks

 

[GVTalon]

I just read on RRE's site about it happening to an Auto. Anyway I think there is check instructions on dsm.org. Keep in mind I could be way off, but I'm just throwing out ideas, trying to help out. Good luck.

 

[badas93tsi]

D@mn, may sound like a stupid question, but which cranks, i.e. 6 bolt, or 7 bolt, is more prone to cw? Sorry to ufck up your thread dude.

 

[4g63tc]

it's cool, iwas looking at the vfaq crank walk page, mebbe i'll take it to the dealer to be checked...but not fixed there if that's the case i'll turn it in to a stroker..about the same price for the fix.

there was one entry involving an auto.

 

[4g63tc]

i guess all 4g63 motors are prone i could be wrong...

 

[GVTalon]

Originally posted by badas93tsi
D@mn, may sound like a stupid question, but which cranks, i.e. 6 bolt, or 7 bolt, is more prone to cw? Sorry to ufck up your thread dude.

Yeah sorry don't want to whore the thread.

From what I've read all 4G63's can get CW. However it is very rare for it to happen on a 6-bolt and if it does happen on a 6-bolt, you probably won't blow the motor. 95-99 7-bolts (only came7) are more prone to CW because of the relocated crank sensor. The crank will actually walk into the sensor area which kills the motor. 95-99 are more likely to blow when modifications are added, which is why they won't be covered under warrenty. Some 93 and 94's came with 7-bolt engines, but I'm not aware if they can suffer from CW like a 95-99.

 

[badas93tsi]

Dude if it is cw, I have an extra 6 bolt bottom end I want to get rid of, a dsm'er in need is a dsm'er indeed. I'll hook you up.

p.s. I put a 6 bolt engine in my 93. lucky me huh

 

[Zerocygnal]

Originally posted by Zerocygnal
Don't forget to check the small things like vacumn leaks around the throttle body and intake. Recently I had the same problem and it turned out to be the hose that runs from the intake manifold to the PCV valve was cracked. Did the breather filter mod and it's been fine ever since. Do a vacumn test, or a leakdown test.

Best of luck

Then I would check the intake and throttle body for leaks around the gasket surfaces. It could also possibly be the MAS I do believe you said you car was guzzling gas....
I don't want to be a bearer of bad news with cw so like I said...check the simple things first.

 

[4g63tc]

it was using a lot of gas but i replaced both O2 sensors and it went back to sipping gas. i replaced all gaskets on tb.

 

[rgirard413]

have you checked your air idle controller?

 

[Zerocygnal]

Not sure then. If it's not spitting any codes out I would still multimeter test all the sensors that would be involved in idle. Could even be the timing for a long shot...I really wouldn't know on this one without taking a look at it myself...and even then I might still be stumped. I've been hearing this same problem alot lately with the local DSM'ers too...

Maybe our cars are...infected?

 

[4g63tc]

i tested sensors, and even did the whole timing belt thing scared about that 0 tolerance engine ...ya know

 

[rgirard413]

this is definitely something we need to solve, i know this happens to me and many others, and I for one dont want to deal with it anymore.

 

[Faded]

My car is doing the same stalling thing. I have tested the ISC, BISS, Plugs, plug wires, etc. I recently tested the REED switch (SoCal DSM recommended this). My latest idea is that maybe by "t" on my FPR line is jacking me up. I'm going to move my EBC "t" off the FPR to another line to see if it helps. Just an idea and something else to check - if you have a "t" on the FPR line try moving it to another line and see if it goes away.

 

[4g63tc]

the car is stock except for an injen intake. i'm scared to dump a bunch of money into performance upgrades until this problem is resolved.

 

[RocketBoy]

I truly doubt it'd be crankwalk. Have you tried another ECU or making sure there's nothing leaking in yours. The 1G's are infamous for having leaky caps. Or see if you know someone that would be willing to let you borrow their ECU for a day.
good luck

 

[afox50x]

Wow my car was kinda doing the same thing and all it need was a new fuel filter and some fuel injector cleaner . . . you've probably already tried that though. Good luck finding whatever it is man.

 

[4g63tc]

i'm replacing the tps tomorrow amn thing was $150 bucks...it's the only sensor that reacts erratically when warmed up. transitions isn't smooth thruout the ohm ranges(causes my multimeter to trip out.), but when cold it works fine? hmmmm.

 

[talon94es]

Hey guys, I'm having the exact same problem after my car warms up. Can you guys tell me how I test this stuff using a multimeter (settings on mulitmeter, etc) since I'm a dumbass when it comes to this. Thanks a lot! I'm using site as the instuctions.THIS

 

[Zerocygnal]

Actually Talon94es all you have to do is follow the step by step instructions in even a Haynes manual. that manual isn't really even worth using as a door stop but it does atleast explain how to test sensors with the multimeter step by step.

 

[4g63tc]

i used the same page...i'm changing the tps tomorrow, cuse the isc checked out fine. and if that doesn't work the vechical speed sensor located behind guages attached to speedometer(of course it's a dealer item only) and last....i'll shoot the damn thing..

 

[4g63tc]

you are absolutely correct on the haynes manual...i use it to level my test bench......

 

[4g63tc]

zero did you do it for chesty?

 

[4g63tc]

well i changed the tps,(found a dead spot) and readjusted the biss, and took it for a little drive....up to bout 100 and braking hard at stops trying to coax it in to happening...well it didn't...untill i pulled int my neighborhood. stalled in the damn driveway.(shiznits!) well next gonna test the knock sensor(?) #@%#@%#@%#@% by the time i'm done i'll have replaced everything with a wire attached to it under the hood!

 

[4g63tc]

well i drove it to work for the first time in a month...and i noticed some peculiar things..the oil pressure gauge is responding very slowly, and the turbo is already building boost at 1500 rpm.

i checked the oil,and it's fine. could this be linked? waht exactly are the symptoms of cw?could this be the beginning? I mean well it doesn't starthaving problems untill the oil basically warms up, and becomes less viscous. hmmmmm i wonder.

any suggestions?

 

[4g63tc]

i was just told it just might be something stupid like a dirty or damaged maf sensor connector