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2G dies at stop lights

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07zx10r

Probationary Member
21
0
Dec 27, 2012
des moines, Iowa
I have a 98 GSX AWD and I'm having problems with it dieing when I stop. It starts and idles fine but once I start going and stop it drops low about 300-500 and dies if a I don't hit the gas. It only happens when the car has been warmed up. If i start it up and go right for a drive I have zero problems. I looked around on the forum and can't find my issue. I checked the Idle Speed Controller and thats good to go. Any Ideas? And no its not crankwalk...:ohdamn:
 
Fighting the same battle right now. I temp solved this buy driving it, until it actually stalled, and at that point, pulled over and adjusted the BISS screw out about 3-4 turns or so and its been fine, and driveable. It does make it run a little richer though. I partially think my issue is needing a tune.
 
Anyone that knows anything about our cars would never say that it was crankwalk. Like stated do a blt and go from there

Ok thanks for that? I said that so people didn't say it was. I saw alot of posts saying it was crankwalk on this site.

Any mods to the car? Light weight flywheel? What does it usually idle at? Could be a boost leak or that the biss needs adjustment.
Yeah there are alot of mods (stock flywheel) but it just randomly started. It was fine before
 
Have you done a boost leak test and checked all vac lines for visible damage?

No i'm going to though.. I checked the ISC and it was good so I just ordered a boost leak tester so I'll be checking that in a couple days. I was gonna also pull my o2 sensor and test that in the mean time. I just started happening right after it got below zero here.. so I'm thinking a hose got cracked maybe. I'll see for sure when my boost leak tester gets here....
 
Ok thanks for that? I said that so people didn't say it was. I saw alot of posts saying it was crankwalk on this site.

And I'm saying they don't know what they are talking about if that's true. Most people cry crankwalk without even knowing what crankwalk is. A boost leak or your biss is most likely your problem
:thumb:
 
This sounds like either the maf is going there is a test for it in the manual or a chiltons if you have one. It could also be a vacuum leak or air getting past the maf. Any chance you have had the batt out lately the ecu must re learn again. Just some thoughts how is your fuel pressure?
 
I would assume it'd be an 02 sensor thing because the car should be going back into closed loop at the stop lights.
 
I'm trying to figure out idle issues with my car also. You said you checked your ISC so I assume you mean you checked the coils. If so, the ISC also has mechanical parts that fail. The gears get worn out and the valve doesn't open/close like it should. Che k this site for more info on that if you haven't already DSMISC Automotive (New ISC Supplier)
 
If you key "Off" then On and it drives fine..it's electrical, or sensor related.

You pull up t a stoplight, as it's slowing down it starts bogging, without trying to recover..but when you restart it it runs fine till the next stoplight, then does it again. Right?

If so, replace the Maf and call it a day. BTW you didn't pull the maf out to clean it did you?

I had the same exact problem almost 10 years ago. Try this.....when it starts bogging key off, then on quickly. If it recovers then 100% it's the Maf. ( don't let the engine die)
 
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If you key "Off" then On and it drives fine..it's electrical, or sensor related.

You pull up t a stoplight, as it's slowing down it starts bogging, without trying to recover..but when you restart it it runs fine till the next stoplight, then does it again. Right?

If so, replace the Maf and call it a day. BTW you didn't pull the maf out to clean it did you?

I had the same exact problem almost 10 years ago. Try this.....when it starts bogging key off, then on quickly. If it recovers then 100% it's the Maf. ( don't let the engine die)

I never messed with the MAF and the blow off is a Hks sequential. Should I get a new blow off or try and find the recirculating kit for it?
 
Definitely recirc your bov. Mine would die when pulling up to a stoplight (and ran kind of funky in general) when it was vented to the atmosphere, but since I've recirc'd it I haven't had a problem.
 
Alright I got a 'Torque Solution HKS Ssqv BOV Outlet 1.25" Recirculation Adapter ' hopefully this works. I'll just make my own kit $60 is a bit much for a hose I can find for $10. I'll post up if this fixes my idle!!
 
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Just bought a 95 talon, kid lied about the issues it had, also after i gave him cash and drove off and car dies on me, he lets me know the 450cc injectors are back in and the 750cc injectors are out. He says thats the reason for fuel cut off... It happens when i take my foot off gas comming to a stop light. The AFR drops and car will cut off... It has a 20g Turbo, Forged internals, from the paperwork, motor runs great, sounds great... Trans shifts great.... Also i thought it had an exhaust leak, he said no... sure enought when i got home it was noticeably blowing exhaust out from what looks to be the down pipe, or the connection from mani to exhaust, or possibly a rust hole. Also Bov is quiter now since hole or leak got bigger... Makes sense??.

So i went out bought 720cc RC eng injectors and a AEM fuel rail for $100, Only issue with rail is its a 6AN tig welded fuel receive side.

What's the quickest way too hook a braided fuel line from the stock receiver, needs to be a female end... If i do that, is it mandatory i change the outlet side to a 6 or 4an? And should all this hopefully fix my issues, because this is the 2nd project im taking on and im going broke fast... actually i am.
 
NOBODY MOVE! THIS THREADS BEEN HIJACKED! LOL start your own thread buddy..... To the OP, I noticed a huge difference when I started recirculating my bov, plus plus if you're not on speed density, and tuned, atmospheric is a big nono.. :nono: under your hood there should be a vacuum line diagram, follow it to a"T" then do your blt....... Routine maintenance key for our cars and there's a lot "free" horsepower to be had. Adjust biss, clean throttle body, fix boost leaks, check or replace /gap/torque the spark plugs.... Make sure they are ngk bpr7es. Hope this helps :rocks:
 
NOBODY MOVE! THIS THREADS BEEN HIJACKED! LOL start your own thread buddy..... To the OP, I noticed a huge difference when I started recirculating my bov, plus plus if you're not on speed density, and tuned, atmospheric is a big nono.. :nono: under your hood there should be a vacuum line diagram, follow it to a"T" then do your blt....... Routine maintenance key for our cars and there's a lot "free" horsepower to be had. Adjust biss, clean throttle body, fix boost leaks, check or replace /gap/torque the spark plugs.... Make sure they are ngk bpr7es. Hope this helps :rocks:

Bwahahahaha, nice. So you call the guy out that is having similar problems, so he obviously searched his issue, and you bash him for asking a question along the same lines in a thread already made.... then YOU respond to a thread that is 9 months old. :applause:

Srt4, you need to take your line and your afpr to a dedicated line and fitting shoplike "house of hose" or equivalent and match up the fitting you will need. If that doesn't solve your issues maybe doing some routine maintenance will. Plugs, wires, boost leak test. Fix any leaks, even if they are tiny as they will eventually get bigger at the worst times, plus it makes tuning a beast because of inconsistant air flow.
 
Wasn't paying attention to dates LOL my bad, but there has been no resolve. But fuel cut happens under boost, not as your coming to a stop... Started out similar but the fuel rail issue isn't relevant. But do suggest the same to him, check the vacuum diagram. :cool:
 
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